Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About droflet

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. droflet

    Enduro exhaust cam in SM

    That was going to be my next question. Swapping out cams is simpy a matter of lift the cam cover and swapping them over. I assume just get it to TDC and make sure the new cam is put in on the equivalent tooth as the old one? Anything else I need to know or check? Thanks for all the responses. Drof
  2. droflet

    Enduro exhaust cam in SM

    Pretty sure it is a 2005. I'm in Australia, so maybe we got them for a bit longer. I have seen the cam and it has a B stamped on the gear end. Saw in the FAQ that this is consistent with early model DRZ enduro cams. Does the year matter? Have there been changes to the cams? Thanks, Drof
  3. droflet

    Enduro exhaust cam in SM

    A quick question after failing to find a similar question, A friend has upgraded his 2005 KLX 400 cams and has offered me the exhaust cam if I want it for my 2008 DRZ SM. My bike has a FCR and MRD exhaust. Is it worth putting the KLX/DRZ enduro exhaust cam in? I know that it is the intake cam that makes the most difference, but I can only get the exhaust cam. Will the stock intake cam and enduro exhaust cam work together, or should I stick with the stock cams for both? Thanks, Drof
  4. droflet

    Break in Procedure

    A magazine article on the KLX in TBM (UK) a little while back had dyno plots from the KLX450. Going from memory, peak power was around 8,000rpm. Not sure where the rev limiter is, but wouldn't expect it to be any higher than 11,000rpm. The changes to the KLX engine over the KX where done to move power lower down the rev range, so unless you're racing, there isn't much point in using all the 'over rev'.
  5. droflet


    Firstly, I don't profess to be a suspension expert. There are a number of other sites and forum posts which address this better than I can. However, these are some things I've discovered over the years…. Seat hitting you in the butt can be a couple things, and isn't limited to compression settings. First of all, make sure your sag adjustments are correct (i.e. spring pre-load). There's heaps of info on here for general recommendations for static and dynamic sag. Assuming your sag is OK, try and figure out if the rear suspension is causing problems going over bumps or going into bumps. To explain. Imagine a moderate, square edged, pot hole in the road. When you first ride into it, the pre-loaded rear spring will push the back wheel down into the hole to keep the tyre in contact with the ground. If you've got too little rebound dampening on, then the spring will push down too quick and the seat will pop up a bit an hit you in the butt. Too much rebound and the bike will drop into the hole a little, as the spring won't extend fast enough to push the rear wheel down. If this is the case, and the pot-hole your riding through isn't that long, you can end up having too much spring pre-load on the exit, so when the back wheel then gets pushed up out of the hole, the bike will kick and the seat will push up (assuming compression isn't too soft). Try and figure out what it feel like dropping into and then out off a hole like that. If the bike feels about right going off a square edged hole, then it could be that you have too much compression dampening on. Given that your weight is maybe a little lighter than some, and if you're sag is set correctly, then you may want a little LESS rebound dampening than normal (as your pre-load won't be as high). Start with compression as recommended. If you think the rebound is about right but you're still getting seat slap coming our of holes or over square edges (like tree roots etc), then you may have a little too much compression dampening on. Another way to tell if you've got the rear right is how it feels when accelerating out of a corrugated corner. If the bike's squatting a bit and not getting much drive or skipping/bumping around, chances are you're spring is not getting a chance to unload properly between corrugations, which also calls for a little less rebound (normally). There's a number of other web sites around that help to explain this better than I probably have. Hope that's a start? Drof
  6. droflet

    What to expect from the top end?

    jueylea, If you're actually after a little more top end, the KX header has been reported to do just that. There's plenty of guys taking them off their KX's for aftermarket ones, so eBay or even your local store are probably good places to look. Also, if you still aren't sure about your setup, SA Dirtbikes in Adelaide are really switched on with the KLX (they've been doing very well in the 24hr's on them). Phone is 08 8359 0100 Good to see some other Aussie's on here too! Drof
  7. droflet

    09 klx450r on kawi site

    Although the '09 KLX doesn't seem to have received any major changes, the KX450 sure has, including EFI (see Kawasaki site). The KX also has a new (or revised) chassis. This will probably mean that a lot of '09 KX parts won't fit the '09 KLX (unlike the '08 models where the chassis was the same). I assume the '08 and '09 KLX chassis will be basically identical. I therefore wonder 2 things: - Will the majority of '08 KLX aftermarket parts (tanks, shrouds etc) fit the '09 KLX model - I'd guess yes. - Will the 2010 KLX get EFI and maybe share the '09 KX chassis? Drof