BoNalls

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About BoNalls

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    New Jersey
  1. Personally I've used Namura pistons in my bike without any problems thus far.
  2. Bike sounds amazing! I'm really itching to snag the 345 kit for my 2000.
  3. Sounds like the flywheel key broke on you. Pull the flywheel cover and see if the flywheel is loose on the shaft.
  4. Chassis wise it's for the steel framed yz's. Motor wise, it should be good for the 99+ YZ250's
  5. Hey guys, I went through and stripped out the non-English pages of the YZ 250 Service Manual on yamaha's site. It's now 265 pages. Here's the link: http://www.mediafire.com/view/?dx6fqlljmlcvkvr Hope it helps.
  6. The powervalve is very easy to work on. The key is to make sure you lay out all the parts as you remove them. I would type out the whole procedure, but I think you'll benefit more from having the complete manual, so I uploaded it for you. I stripped the non english pages out of it. http://www.mediafire.com/view/?dx6fqlljmlcvkvr Look at page 4-18 for the power valve.
  7. I measured the cylinder bore at 66.40mm diameter on the top and bottom of the cylinder, and the namura pistons are 66.35mm.
  8. I agree that it's pretty severe wear for 21 hours, which is why i posted the picture in the first place. I don't want to run race gas. Maybe I'll richen it up a little and retard the timing a degree or so. I will say that I've never heard pinging or detonation, though. I did notice what i consider to be a lot of free standing oil on the crank when I pulled the cylinder off. Enough to coat my finger when i wiped it. I think I'm going to rejet for 40:1. Just for reference, here's my setup: No toil air filter Jetted carb (see above) Boyesen Superstock Fiber Reeds Stock head Noleen Racing Pipe Pro Circuit Stainless Shorty Silencer I would assume its mostly a Needle issue with some influence from the Main jet. I tried a 180 Main at 75*F the response felt fat up top with a relatively soaked plug. The stock 175 felt much better.
  9. Filter cleaned after every ride. I have 3 filters that I cycle through. So i always have 2 cleaned ones waiting to be used. Temp's ranged from 50-100*F, and I adjust jetting accordingly. I run a 170 Main and a 48 Pilot when it's warmer than 85*F outside. I run a 175 Main and a 50 Pilot when its between 60-85*F. I run a 180 Main and 50 Pilot below below 60*F I haven't touched the needle itself, but have adjusted clip positions for the best feel., and the bike feels the best at the above jetting. Honestly, the only "damage" i noticed was the Teflon coating worn off and minor horizontal lines on the piston.
  10. Hold your shifter in the "shift up" position and that will rotate the lever and give you clearance to loosen the bolt. I've gone through a bunch of MSR Aluminum shift levers as well, wore the teeth right off of them. Turns out that even though it appeared that my shift shaft had teeth on it, the new one I bought was a huge difference. I also am fed up with the aluminum shift levers and opted for a IMS Steel shift lever. Hopefully i wont have to deal with the shift lever again for a long time.
  11. Just did another top end on my 2000 YZ 250 this past weekend. This was my first time running a Namura Piston. Here are pics of the piston after 21.3 hours (meter time). Old on Left, New on Right Looks like the coating wore right off! BTW, I run a 32:1 ratio and always Klotz Benol Castor oil. Also, the previous piston had a 0.016" top ring gap and a 0.020" bottom ring gap.
  12. Ahhhhh, so the trick is removing the rubber plug for the stator and allowing the tool to fall in to that slot? Both of my bearings are shot. I can see missing needles in the bearings.So both of them need to be replaced.
  13. Hello guys, In diagnosing my stiff clutch pull, i have discovered that the two needle bearings for the clutch actuating arm (25 in the diagram) are destroyed. http://www.bikebandi...145869sch114647 Do any of you guys have experience replacing these bearings? At first glance, it looks like a bearing puller needs to be used, but the crank shaft (after flywheel is removed) looks like it's in the way of getting a puller in there. What is the proper way to remove them?
  14. Hey guys, While going through my routine winter maintenance, i noticed that both my front and rear rims have hairline cracks in them. I guess it is something you should expect from an almost 14year old set of wheels. So now I am in the market for a new set of wheels, front and rear, for my 2000 Yz 250. What do you all recommend? I missed out on the G-Force Richter clearance on rockymountain. Two complete wheels for 320$!!!
  15. Same price as englishtown, and will probably be 10x better! And opened Tuesday through Sunday! THIS IS SICK!!!!!!!!!!!