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      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

icedcap

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About icedcap

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    California
  1. Yamaha

    the bike came with a 155 main and you went down? you should be up to a 175 main, probably higher, but I'd start there and increment slowly. i have pipe, jet & filter, I'm running a 190 just fine at Glamis (sea level). IcedCap
  2. Yamaha

    i've heard the 07 has a new micro switch in the throttle, that is frequently going bad. have it tested at the dealer. IcedCap
  3. Yamaha

    you're running lean, try the 175 main jet. the 48 pilot is okay. you'd rather run a little rich, than a little lean. IcedCap
  4. Yamaha

    air box lid on or off
  5. Yamaha

    yfz 450 for sure, unless you weight 250+
  6. Yamaha

    this happened to me under load, ie. climbing China Wall at Glamis, i'm 280 lbs and i'd get that knock, ping sound and it scared the s--t out of me. i let my lighter friend ride mine and no sound, i did again and sound. to fix, you need more fuel to the carb, so you need to pipe, jet, filter. i did and no knocking or pinging, just ass haulin! IcedCap
  7. Yamaha

    i just did the pipe, jet, filter mods to my 06 yfz 450 and i have the repair manual. to adjust the idle, you should use a tach, and turn a black funny lookin knob (the edges are kinda like a suflower). I don't have a tach, so i adjusted mine slowly and this DOES work (who'd figure -- the manual -- instructions -- me follow -- bike work). the knob is on the choke side of the carb, a bit higher, and 1.5 to 2 inches back and it's facing towards the rear, so you know, it's sideways looking from the side of the bike and you can't barely tell it's even there. the manual says to warm your bike and try to maintain the idle by using the throttle, to adjust the idle turn the knob clockwise to increase rpm's (i turned mine about 1/4 turn) and this fixed my idle issue. Actually, what i did is, warm my bike, and then I slowly let off the throttle until it just about died (with one hand) and with the other I turned the knob until i heard/felt the bike respond and pickup the idle. With the bike idling off the new knob position, i slowly, very slowly, turned the idle down until the bike died (i had marked mine before I began to see how far and i was just beyond stock when it died, you'll also hear the difference). I restarted the bike and moved the knob again, then i lowered the idle until it sounded right. no tach, nothing up my sleeve, just used the manual to adjust the idle. i'd say if you had to turn the knob until your bike is running like a freight train then "this isn't the fix for you." IcedCap let us know if you try this and if it worked.
  8. I signed. Thank you for the opportunity, whoever came up w/ this idea !!
  9. Don't know what overloads are, so I won't comment. It sounds like you should use airbags at about 25 PSI (250 lbs of weight = 50 lbs per 5 PSI) to keep the leaf springs from bottoming out and to give 'em a little help w/ the weight. Setup the airbags so they each have their own air input. Next, and very important, with your FULLY LOADED trailer on as near a LEVEL surface as possible, measure from the ground to the front right, front left, rear right, and rear left, all four numbers MUST be w/in 1 inch of each other THROUGHOUT and after completion of the set-up of the weight distribution hitch. So, I AM saying to setup the weight distribution hitch on as near a level surface as possible with a FULLY LOADED trailer. You MUST use a weight distribution hitch in California and take your time to do this correctly. You should measure the distance from the ground to a spot on the front wheel-wells, then do the same on the rear wheel-wells. If you have properly used the weight distribution hitch the front and rear should drop the same amount when you put the weight of your FULLY LOADED trailer on it, don't use half measures or we'll see you on the side of the road jack-knifed. So, what you're looking for is, if your rig is lowered 3" in the front with the weight distribution on it, you should lose 3" in the rear. Just know, 99% of sway is caused by speed and tongue weight. Don't spend $30K on a truck, $30K on a trailer, $20K on your bikes, plus the risk of personal injury for less than $500 in parts and 2-3 hours of setup. Nobody does it right the first time, so bring your impact wrench and a couple of friends for loading up, then lowering/raising, loosing/tightening, moving stuff around, etc. Once you've done this right you can relax on the drive. Make sure all your lights work, tire pressure is critical EVERY TIME -- do yourself a favor buy an excellent gauge AND USE IT EVERY TIME, grease both the ball and the coupler, and you're good to go riding! NOTE: remove the weight distribution bars to travel over whoops (you can break all kinds of things if you don't) like in Pismo's sand, Glamis' washes, etc. Hope this helps all! IcedCap
  10. Yamaha

    my opinion so you know where i'm talking from, I have two silver 06 yfz450v (me & wifey poo) i'm using k&n power lids (filters big stuff) & pro-design dual layer foam filters (filters super small stuff) to protect the intakes/carbs, Jd Jetting (varies depending on elevation, weather, etc, etc, etc.), fuel screws w/ t-handles (to make life easier), nerf bars (to protect me from me:crazy: ), and i'm using the NEW gytr full stainless (make sure it's the NEW one), it uses the stock heatshield, is relatively quiet, and performs excellent. The argument of which is best will go on for infinity! In my opinion the issue is uncorking the bike and maintaining the integrity of the system for infinity! It's your choice, my investigation of the matter show's them all to be very close and your experience riding (think hole shot) will beat the person next to you on any comp hill. IcedCap (see ya at Oldsmobile Hill on x-mas & new years and we spend our nights out at Wash 22, NO DUST!! )
  11. Yamaha

    I got me one!, and saved a bunch of money on valve adjustments (doing my own and they haven't needed adjustment, but you better check) My '06 rips! IcedCap
  12. Yamaha

    What? No words of wisdom! What do I do? IcedCap
  13. i've read here on thumper that i can cheaply remove the sparky and drill out the muffler to get more air flow. is this correct w/ the 06? the news i get, is there is a washer like thing after removing the internals. I can't remove the internals the muffler's welded shut from the factory! what gives? and how do i jet this? the author said a 48 pilot, could i just use the stocker 45? i'm riding Dumont & Glamis and need more specs. any advice out there? IcedCap