tom02cr250

Members
  • Content count

    461
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

137 Excellent

About tom02cr250

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    2014 CRF450R & . 94 Mazda RX7. BMX
  1. No. Yes. No. Better to use the 14 for woods but yes you can use the 16 with less face shims and it will feel decent.
  2. Compression side has bigger shims against the piston, you can match them up to the piston that way, and compression side is the bottom, and the smaller ports are the comp side, 1st pic. I've stretched on piston bands on small rebound pistons in forks, but not on the shock. If it stretches too much, wrap it super tight with electric tape and stick it in the freezer for a bit.
  3. When I drain fork oil out of new or low hour Yamahas it comes out really thick and slow. I always use Maxima 5wt.
  4. Wow that's crazy. I have a 16 with 500 hours and I race harescrambles and practice dead engine starts often, I did have a rekluse clutch basket break one time while practicing starts for a while with it warmed up/hot, they replaced it for me. I've gone through about 3 kick starters from them getting worn and loose. I'd say there may have been a defect in the metal, idk.
  5. You didn't specify what bike it is? You didn't specify if it's a motocross bike with Motocross suspension trying to ride in the rough Woods. It needs revalved softer if it is Motocross suspension, softer compression valving to start with, I leave rebound valving stock, others soften it also.
  6. Replace the bushings!?
  7. Spring side facing down/outside. Typically with seals you want the open side of the seals facing the oil.
  8. Right. Once it doesn't want to start cold and feels low on compression when kicking it, then thats a sign they lost all clearance and need shimmed or just replace them. So always start your bike in the morning before taking it somewhere to ride.
  9. They're good. On my 16 the first time I checked them after many hours one was at .003 and I let it be and the intake valves lasted 170 hours before one lost all clearance and I replaced both. Don't worry about them for a while. I usually set mine at .004". I've never had to shim the exhaust valves.
  10. Yeah I run a primary drive x ring chain also and they are wide, makes my master link clip wear down fast cause it rubs the chain guide alot, I should probably switch to a more narrow chain.
  11. I don't know if the washers are the same as the older years? But you can get a thin washer from the hardware store to put behind the front sprocket, I use to do that till I realized it wasn't needed with a aftermarket front sprocket, you should just get a different front sprocket if they are the same. How do you like the bike with the 49 rear sprocket? I know stock was 49 on the 16 and 17 and 48 is stock on the 18.
  12. Yes, idk what the manual says yes you can use 3wt, that's what I use.
  13. I know with the pre 2018 bikes you use a aftermarket front sprocket with the flat side out and it offsets the chain out further away from the case than the stock sprocket. Did you do this?
  14. A stiffer spring will help keep you higher in the stroke and bottom less, same with valving. But the stiffer you go on springs and valving the less comfort you'll have when riding slower rough trails.
  15. Also you'll be able to set your sag with 2 close spring rates, but the stiffer spring is better for jumping or faster riding. Same with valving, they will recommend slightly stiffer valving for mx or for an A rider compared to a B rider.