tom02cr250

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About tom02cr250

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  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    2014 CRF450R & . 94 Mazda RX7. BMX
  1. Yeah I run a primary drive x ring chain also and they are wide, makes my master link clip wear down fast cause it rubs the chain guide alot, I should probably switch to a more narrow chain.
  2. I don't know if the washers are the same as the older years? But you can get a thin washer from the hardware store to put behind the front sprocket, I use to do that till I realized it wasn't needed with a aftermarket front sprocket, you should just get a different front sprocket if they are the same. How do you like the bike with the 49 rear sprocket? I know stock was 49 on the 16 and 17 and 48 is stock on the 18.
  3. Yes, idk what the manual says yes you can use 3wt, that's what I use.
  4. I know with the pre 2018 bikes you use a aftermarket front sprocket with the flat side out and it offsets the chain out further away from the case than the stock sprocket. Did you do this?
  5. A stiffer spring will help keep you higher in the stroke and bottom less, same with valving. But the stiffer you go on springs and valving the less comfort you'll have when riding slower rough trails.
  6. Also you'll be able to set your sag with 2 close spring rates, but the stiffer spring is better for jumping or faster riding. Same with valving, they will recommend slightly stiffer valving for mx or for an A rider compared to a B rider.
  7. Yes. When it is all put back together properly there won't be any free play
  8. I think you have that backwards. More sag has less preload on the spring which is less energy stored in the spring. More preload tights down the spring making it stiffer, and that raises up the rear end or holds it up more under more weight giving you a smaller amount of sag.
  9. Alot of heat from a real torch on the swingarm and engine case, the bolt gets seized to the collars in the engine case and in the swingarm bearings, heat from a little map gas or propane torch is not enough. And a good air hammer while heating it after it's super hot. Don't melt the engine case or the gasket and try not to mess up the threads on the bolt. I use a 5mm Allen tool that goes on to a ratchet wrench, grind it down so it fits in the end of the axle, and put the air hammer part into the tool. Leave the nut threaded on. I've had to do this on a couple recently, even had to cut a swingarm out with a grinder and that is not easy.
  10. Ya, in my experience
  11. I've rebuilt many shocks and the shock shaft seal head would suck itself back in a little when you let out the pressure, I think it's fine and due to the bladder being collapsed when installing the seal head, then when you pressurize it the bladder expands to normal shape pushing the shock shaft out and then when it's pressurized fully the shock works properly.
  12. The valving needs stiffened up, it's super soft stock.
  13. Replace the stock basket, the auto clutch will work better with a new basket, get a billet basket. It won't work as good with any notches in the basket. If your clutch isn't slipping at all now then you may be okay with the plates, but I use a fairly cheap tusk competition friction plate set with my rekluse z start pro auto clutch and basket and it works good.
  14. No you don't need to replace the bladder unless it's somehow bad. I've never replaced mine.
  15. 25 ft lbs