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About xr75kid

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  1. I have a 1976 RM125 with 6 studs on the top of the cylinder that hold the head on. 2 of the studs need repair as the threads are gone. 1 is just stripped out-no threads left. The other had a heli coil in in that came up when I tried to tighten the head. What is the best way to repair it ? Could the holes be welded and re tapped ? Can someone recommend someone to repair this that has done this before ? Im in SF bay area or I can ship it. Thanks for any advice.
  2. Have this aluminum thor swingarm and Id like help I.D.ing it. It has the numbers/letters on the front of the arm that read 182S. Anyone have any info on these ? Thanks for any input.
  3. xr75kid

    XT/TT Motor Swap?

    There is someone on the San Francisco craiglist selling "tt500 cases and crank" for 100 bucks.
  4. Im in Pinole. A couple minutes past the carquinez bridge heading toward SF.
  5. Thanks for the reply. The spring is there. There were 3 or 4 spots on that diaphragm that looked almost like a tear but I couldn't confirm that because they were so tiny. The carbs have been blown out with compressed air. I think Im getting closer but not there just yet. Its riding weather now here in Nor Cal and the bike is calling me to fix it so I can ride.
  6. Rode it yesterday. Started right up. Ran great. Was able to hold it wide twice. Ran better than ever it seemed like. The third time I held it wide as soon as I let off the throttle it backfired and died then started right back up. I noticed when I took the carbs apart , the one with the diaphragm that hadn't seen the day of light since new had some tiny imperfections in the diaphragm but they didn't look bad enough to warrant replacing and I didn't have another one. What exactly does that diaphragm do ? This could be another dead end Im just reaching here. Spark plug is next. Maybe replacing the resistor in the cap with a piece of wire ? Is that wise ? I read those go out sometimes. Trying to do the inexpensive things now as Im currently unemployed. Wish I knew someone with a similar bike, I could send them my coil and cdi and they could try it on their bike to see what happens.
  7. I may have fixed it. I started checking connections and I pulled apart the coil and the cdi connectors and they looked like new so I figured I was at another dead end. Then I decided to check the ground which is under the tank and has not been off since new. Found the ground to be heavily rusted. Cleaned it up and started it and it ran longer than before and I finally killed it manually . Will ride it tomorrow and see what happens. See before and after photos.
  8. Got the gas to stop coming from the overflow tube. I ended up taking the carbs back off again and removing the float bowls on both carbs and comparing their condition. They both looked very clean and in great shape. Couldn't see anything wrong with any of the parts inside so I figured I would switch the float , needle and pin from one carb to the other. It quit leaking. Started it and it ran great for a good while but died again. Found my original Honda spark plug wrench and removed the plug and it looked great , nice tan color. Guess I will be looking at replacing the sparkplug,coil and cdi now.
  9. Thanks again, I will pull them back off except this time im thinking there is no sense in mounting them on the bike, may as well just set up the tank and carbs somewhere and try it like that. I will inspect the needle valve , pin, seat and float and see if I can figure something out.
  10. Well, today I turned the gas on and it started coming out of the primary left side carb overflow tube again. This is the same overflow tube that was blocked previously. I spent a couple hours removing both carbs, cleaning everything, checked the float level and reassembled. When I removed the carbs I noticed the intake manifold on the primary carb side had excessive gas in it as did the air box on the primary side. Just threw the tank back on and hooked up the gas line , turned on the gas and same thing...overflowing through the primary overflow tube. What in the carb is causing this ? Anybody know ?
  11. Thanks for the ideas. I pulled the overflow tubes and 1 was clogged. Unclogged it and thought that was it...but it wasn't. I also loosened the gas cap and blew through the gas cap overflow tube. After it died it would start right back up. When it died I started to loosen the drain screw on the bottom of one of the carbs to see if there was gas in the fuel bowl which there was and gas came out of one of the overflow tubes and ran onto the ground. This was a first. Think I will be pulling the carbs (again) to disassemble and inspect .
  12. Any help appreciated. I have a 84 xr350 I bought new. It has always ran fine even after sitting for a year or 2. I recently took it to a OHV park and it started right up , ran and rode fine for 5-10 minutes then would die. It would lose power on and off , sometimes backfire and then die. Starts back up after a few kicks then runs for a few minutes and dies again. I barely made it back to the truck. Brought it home and performed the below repairs on it and it does the same exact thing after riding it today. Things I have done since I brought the bike back home from the OHV park: Taken off the carbs (dual carb setup) and cleaned the inside of the bowls, the main and pilot jets and blew compressed air through most of the carbs orifices that I could get to-did not separate and totally dismantle the carbs.Also cleaned the outside of the carbs as much as I could without separating them. Taken off the intake manifold and re-installed. Did notice the 2 O-rings that go between the head and intake manifold were nearly flat but did not replace them-but thinking of that as an option now-will need to order those if I go that route. Adjusted the valves. Cleaned and re-oiled the K&N air filter with K&N air filter spray. Drained the fuel in the tank and replaced with fresh fuel. Petcock was also replaced with a good used one-original one started leaking. Gas flows freely out of the overflow tube on the gas cap. Stock header pipe was removed re-installed. New exhaust gaskets were not installed-originals were still in head and reused. Does not appear to leak. Bike has a aftermarket DG RCM alloy slip on muffler on it connected to the stock header pipe and a K&N air filter with stock jetting-Have run this same exhaust/air filter for years with no problem so I never felt the need to change the jetting. Have not removed the spark plug yet to examine it. Will take a special thin wall socket to do this. Have not located one yet. I set the air fuel mixture screw first at 1 1/2 turns out after I cleaned the carbs then again today at 2 turns out- I just got a factory Honda manual and manual says 1 3/4 turns. Thought I would go a little more and see if it helped-but didn't. I research on line what I could find on the problem and still haven't found the fix yet. I did read that the plate on the side of one of the carbs held on by 2 screws sometimes gets filled with gunk , checked that today and its clean inside. Again thanks for any advice/help. Hoping there is a expert on these 83-84 dual carb xr's out there that has seen this problem before.
  13. xr75kid

    77 XL75E

    From memory, I ran a Xl 80 engine in a xr80. All you need is one of those wires for it to run. I thought the wire I used was a combination black and white wire. You just run it to the wire coming off the stock coil under the tank. If you look at a 70's xr 75, 80 or 100 there is just one wire coming from the points plate and it goes straight to the coil. Not sure about the cdi option.
  14. Thanks Alot for the responses. I do have a 69-70 TS250 factory Suzuki manual but it does not cover fork seal replacement , just a schematic of the fork assembly.
  15. Looks like the forks come apart near the fork seal as I have seen a couple forks with pipe wrench marks on them near the fork seal. Maybe a strap wrench is used to dissasemble ? Any advice appreciated.