jasonl

Members
  • Content count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About jasonl

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  1. took mine apart to soak and clean. Which way does this "jet-needle" go back in? Does it make a difference?
  2. Okay.....getting desperate here. What happens is after I ride for a while then stop and let the bike sit for 5 -50 minutes, I get on and it starts and runs fine briefly, then it dies. It will start right back up and may or may not run for a while. Searched and searched and even tho I find this exact problem with KJR 250's. mo body ever follows upon there post
  3. I am really baffeled. The bike runs great when it's running right. The kickstand switch doesn't work, as in I can put it in gear with kick stand down and it doesn't stall. But, the last 2 times it acted up was after I stopped for a break and was off the bike then got back on to ride. It shut off within a 1/2 mile after I got going. I look down at my fuel filter and it's full. I "choke" the bike and kick it 2-3 times and it runs fine for 30 miles then dies again. I pull off the road, wiggle my wires at the stand and it fires back up and was good the last 4 miles. IDK? How dp you eliminate the kick stand safety? Just "jump" the circuit or complete it? I am just trying to eliminate possabilities at this point. Can't believe it's carb because it runs great until this happens...
  4. I can take my bike on 100-200 mile rides without issue. But, if I'm riding down a long grade and litterally "pump" the gas or get in and out of the throttle, I can make it die. I have put about 1,000 miles on the bike and this has happened 3 times, but I'm pretty sure I can make it happen almost all the time if I do what I mentioned above. It's just wierd.....I am thinking my carb slide is sticking or something? I will do a full carb rebuild this winter, but wanted to check these boards to see if it was a know issue. Thanks for the reply!
  5. So I have a strange issue........I bought a 99 KLR 250 w/5,600 miles (now has 6,600) back in the spring. I pulled the carb and cleaned it, installed a uni filter, drilled two 1/2" holes in the air box lid, removed the mixture screw plug and turned it out 2 turns ( was at 1/4 factory) and bumped the main jet up to a 125. I run 2 oz of sea foam every other tank or so. The bike starts and runs great. Idles fine and pulls strong all the way to red line. I am actually very surprised by how good this runs for a 250. When it's cold or after it sits for a week or more it takes two kicks with choke to start (very acceptable to me) and once it's warm it starts one kick every time. I have had a problem with the bike dying on decel, or as I'm getting in and out of the throttle from like no throttle to maybe 1/4 throttle. Seems worse on cooler days/nights. After it died I looked and my fuel filter was still full, I chocked it and two kicks and it's like nothing ever happened. I mean it just dies like it ran out of gas. I didn't check the vlaves, when I bought it, but it runs fine, better than I expected other wise. Any ideas? Anything common? Thanks for any input!
  6. Digging up an old topic here..... I have used dynojet kits 3 times in my life. First was in a 2000 Mojave and I set it up per instructions and it was flawless. Second in a 2005 Suzuki GS 500 and no matter what setting it was terrible. Ended up shimming stock needle and bumping up stock jet's with keihin jets. Third time was on a DR650SE and results were same as with the GS 500. I pretty much lost faith in the company. I am about to by a KLR 250 for a camp/play bike and I noticed DYNO JET makes a different kit for it as opposed to the Mojave and I was always under the assumption that they have the same carb. They list a different DJ needle, different DJ Jets, the KLR has you drill the slide hole and the Mojave doesn't. I'm confused why these to kits would be so different when it's the same carb/engine. The KLR kit comes with much smaller jets so maybe it's emission's? Anybody with any experience and input would be greatly appreciated. Am I wrong in just thinking the "safe" bet would be to run the Mojave kit as it worked great in my old Mojave?
  7. Hey Thanks Rob !! Luckily I didn't take the "get a bigger mallet" approach.
  8. Hello all. Is there a secret to getting the FMF Q2 apart for repacking? I took the screws out and tapped on her but no luck. Am I doing something wrong??
  9. I am not sure why so many people refer to the TrailWing's as death wings. I think they are a quite capable 60/40 street / dirt tire. There really is no perfect compromise. I wanted to try The TrailWing TW301 front and TW302 rear combo, but the TW302 is on back order until Nov so I purchased a K270 rear and a TW301 front. My stock front TW41 has probably 5,ooo miles of useable tread left so I figure it will last as long as the Kenda then I'll try the 301/302 combo.
  10. I have lost faith in DJ recommendations. I have the Air Box mod, uni filter, slight pipe grind and just put the FMF on last week. I am at about 1,500 ft above sea level. I am running 1-1/8 turn out on the air/fuel screw. My needle at clip #5 and a DJ155 main jet. I Had a slight surging at clip #4 after I put the FMF on even though the plug looked good. I dropped to clip #5 and the surging is completely gone and the plug looks pefect (DJ's trouble shooting says to drop the clip one postion at a time for surging). To my surprise when I tried bumping up my main jet to a DJ160 (after the FMF) it was too rich, the bike would actually cut out slightly at WOT and I did a plug check at WOT and it confirmed a rich condition. So basically what I found based on jetting is that the FMF pipe flows better in the mid range than stock, but comparable on the top. In my opinion the DR flattens out quickly in the high RPM anyhow. I ordered a 45 pilot jet last week to hopefully help with the popping on decel. My previous bike was a GS500F and it popped bad on decel too and by bumping the pilot up one size on each carb totally eliminated the popping. In real world performance my bike will pull my buddies KLR (stock with a k&n filter) pretty handily through the gears, but it is equal on top. Stock-vs-Stock he could easily beat me. * One other note: Stock I was getting exactly 50mpg. Before I put the FMF on and raised the needle I was still getting 50mpg. I have only checked it once since the FMF and needle raise and it came out to 45mpg, but I have been running it a lot harder listening to that new pipe. When I get back to my comutting mode and more normal cruising, I am sure my mpg will be pushing 50.
  11. I am at about 3,600 miles on my 07' and I have 2/32" tread in the center section of the rear tire. I ride 90% on road commuting to/from work. I run about 30 psi rear and 28 psi front. My front tire would asily last another 5,000 miles plus. It is wearing even, no cupping and it is not even near half way worn yet. The stock tires really aren't that bad as long as you don't think this big 650 is gonna carve the dirt trails like a MX'er. It handles great on the street IMO (as long as it's dry).
  12. You sound like you have my problem. I use my bike as a regular commuter to/from work. So probably 3,000 of the 3,400 miles are on pavement. However the 400 miles on dirt are in the woods on the back roads and even some power lines with a little mud. The stock rear really isn't that bad of a tire, but at 3,000 miles it was down to 3/32 and rendered useless on any thing except hard packed dirt roads or the street. If I could find a tire that would perform slightly better off road and last longer due to the highway use I would be all set. I am willing to give up street performance as I am only commuting and not trying to drag my knee. The stock front tire is horable IMO off road. It cakes up in the littlest bit of mud. With all that said I have about 600 miles to decide what to buy as my rear will be toast by then. I have decided (as of now ) to go with a Trail Wing TW25 on the front and a Cheng Shen C858 (5.10-17) on the rear. I like the fact that the Cheng Shin is a 6ply in the 5.10-17 size. My buddy is putting Kenda 270's on his KLR so I will get a little info on them in the mean time.
  13. I did a search on vibration and this is the closet post I could find. Anyhow, I am getting a numb right hand after about 20 miles on my 25 mile comute to work. I am also noticing a little numbness in my rear sometimes. It is definately related to engine load/rpm as it is way more noticable going up hill. Any one have a similar problem and/or a remedy ??????
  14. No I do NOT have any thing extra wired in.
  15. Not trying to take away from what you have done as it was a great write up, but I actually thought the stock light was "decent". Compared to my buddy's KLR 650 the DR 650 stock light is definately better. Anyhow, I bought a "Brite Lites, super clear flame thrower" bulb. It is rated at 100w/130w it cost $15.99 from Dennis Kirk. It is definately better than stock, but still not Baja 500 brite. It also was plug and play and after 3 weeks I haven't blown any fuse or had any problems and I ride to work 25 miles each night.