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ldbandit76

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About ldbandit76

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    TT Newbie

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    Wisconsin
  1. ldbandit76

    All balls bearings....

    Having been employed to design a few ball bearing systems, I'll mention this: you can't tell a quality bearing from a poor one by looking at it, and there is a very real difference in performance and longevity between a quality bearing and a cheap one. I buy my bearings here: http://www.cbrbearing.com/ Dirt-cheap ball bearings work fine in cheap hand tools and washing machines. But they don't go into my motorcycle.
  2. ldbandit76

    Jetting question for touring???

    Not sure about kalabula, but I'll be in Gunnison and Ouray, CO at 7700 feet. Does the chart at the bottom of this page seem to have the right idea? http://www.motocross.com/motoprof/moto/mcycle/carb101/carb101.html Looks like jetting down may be a good move...
  3. For some reason that escapes me, this class needs advertising: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142379 Ned is a Baja 1000 competitor and a heck of a teacher. He's offering a class on enduro and off-road riding technique on August 5 and 6 near Peoria, IL. His other classes have been very well recieved by both advanced riders and beginners. Surely some of you want to improve your skills?
  4. ldbandit76

    Front Wheel Removal

    +1 I just pulled my front axle an hour ago. Turn it. It will slide really easily if it's turning while you push or pull on the appropriate end. Use your spark plug socket end, a bolt with the appropriate size head, or some other hex thing to turn it. And put grease on the big end, too. Dave
  5. The fellow at the bottom of this thread tried it: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2551610 and yes, there's lawyer-ese on the page (moving vehicle and all). The seller is a very small operation, and product liability insurance costs much more than he's making selling these little things. I'll be getting one shortly. Dave
  6. ldbandit76

    Intermittent turn signal failure

    Indeed I did. I squished the wires to one signal under the top triple clamp; that caused a short. So, for those of you who are as clumsy or trouble-prone as me, here are the symptoms of a short at a single turnsignal bulb: 1) The signals don't work; nothing happens when the switch is thrown. 2) If the short is intermittent, the signal may work sometimes (but see 4). 3) If the short becomes an open circuit, the open side will blink fast (like a bulb is out). 4) Once the blinker circuit "sees" the short, it will confuse the system such that opening the short will not correct the problem. After seeing the short, no blinkers will work, on either side. The bike needs to be shut off (rebooted?) before it'll behave normally (fast on the open side, normal on the other). I tested 4) by setting the shorted side to blinking (which it didn't), then unplugging the shorted blinker, then signalling again. Even with the short removed, it didn't work. Niether would the other side. Odd. Anyway, it's all patched up and I can blink again. Dave
  7. ldbandit76

    Intermittent turn signal failure

    My new-to-me 2003 DRZ400S has just over 1000 miles on it, a mix of easy trails and roads. Two weeks ago, I rode it a few miles north and did some trail riding. No problems. I then tore it down to grease the steering head and swingarm bearings, which had not yet been done, and they needed it. Also put road tires on it. Yesterday, I took it out for the first time since to ride to work. And the left turn signal didn't work. I'd push the switch, but nothing happened. I could signal right fine, but not left. It rained all day, and then I rode home. And neither signal worked. In the garage, I flipped the switch a few times, and sometimes it would signal right, and sometimes not. Never did get it to work on the left side. Before I begin the enjoyable process of troubleshooting intermittent electrical problems, has this happened to anyone else? Anyone have any idea where I should look first? Thanks, Dave
  8. ldbandit76

    Wiring Diagram?

    Thanks much for sharing these. Could you send one here, too? ldbandit76 at yahoo
  9. ldbandit76

    400s commuting

    Indeed, the SM tires will hook up much better. The question is, are they so much better that it'll affect normal road riding? I haven't had a problem losing traction on my 21/18 road tires, and I ride reasonably briskly. There's a presumption of skill and aggression needed to justify very high traction limits. As for gearing, it's much easier to swap sprockets than swap tires or wheels. Because of ny400ex's desire to go dirt riding, I'd point him at the S. Dave
  10. ldbandit76

    SM Hand guards

    How cold is winter by you? Around here (Wisconsin), I use hippo hands in the winter. Those will keep your hands much, much warmer than guards. But they're ugly. Such is life. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000W58ZU/002-3566901-6492808?v=glance&n=3375251 Oh yes, are they warm.
  11. ldbandit76

    400s commuting

    When you say 60 mph limit, do you mean people are doing 60, or is traffic moving at 80? I ride my DRZ400S to work (16 miles one-way) on a mixture of country roads (no traffic) and a short stint of high-speed four-lane that moves around 65 mph. It gets a little blustery at that speed, and passing power is rather limited, but I can keep pace. I wouldn't want to spend more than a couple miles on the interstate (70 mph plus) with this bike. It just wouldn't be comfortable. As for tires, DOT knobbies will do fine, but you'll wear off the edges in a hurry with that kind of pace on asphalt. Depending on your dirt riding style, you may be better off with a more road-biased tire. I'm still using the stock Trailwings, which are great on pavement, okay on gravel and dry dirt, and suck hardcore in loose, slippery mud and soft dirt. But I don't want to use up my knobbies commuting. Those get spooned on for dedicated trail rides. Still, worn knobbies are probably better than street tires in the dirt. Your call. Both the S and SM will have similar power and comfort issues on the road. The SM will have better brakes and perhaps slightly better cornering traction, but I doubt you'll notice that too much during your commute. But as mentioned, the S will be a much better dirtbike. As for looks, well, that's between you and your wallet... Dave
  12. ldbandit76

    Making a gas tank...what would you do?

    Indeed, that would be a hot setup. The Clarke and IMS tanks address how to get more gas on the DR. Either you do something like that (maybe a little lower) or you go for something completely different. Shoot, replace the tank with a shroud and put the gas somewhere else (like in the sidepanels) to lower the CG. That would be cool and look pretty slick.
  13. ldbandit76

    Cutting plastic help - I want nice look, f fender

    Coping saw: http://www.maximumvelocity.com/coping.jpg And if you need to practice, try cutting the fender, but cut less off than you plan to. If you want to end up with 5" taken off, practice taking just 1 inch off with the first cut, and maybe the second. By the time you get to the point where the fender is short enough, you'll be good at it. Dave
  14. ldbandit76

    Jumping question #2

    When I was first learning to jump, I actually was trying to jump with my legs, and not with the bike. Thus, I literally jumped off the pegs, and my feet came off. As should be obvious, jumping with your legs doesn't get the bike in the air. You may or may not be doing something similar. I'm no MX expert, but this is what I learned in trials riding: When approaching the jump, shortly before reaching the face, squat down, and then stand up just before "takeoff." Don't jump up, just stand up. The movement will load the suspension and put force between your feet and the pegs, which should help keep your feet there. Your body is more-or-less over the tank, and you perform the jump with slighly bent knees. The lower the squat, the more you'll load the suspension. Press down just a little with your feet to help maintain contact. Gripping with your legs is good, too, but there shouldn't be any force trying to separate you from the bike. Give the throttle a blip as you come over; this keeps the front wheel up. Maybe that helps. Dave
  15. ldbandit76

    Best Electrical Connection Types

    The turn signals in my street bike have been connected with plain cheap 1/4" spade lugs for many years, many, many miles, and way more rain than I really cared to ride through at the time. No problems at all, even after multiple re-connections when pulling the fairings. I crimp the spade connector onto the wire, then flood that joint with solder, trying to avoid melting the plastic covers more than necessary. Put a little dielectric grease on the lug and connect them. Then forget about it. If/when I need to replace a signal, I just cut off the connectors on the new signal and crimp/solder on new spades. They cost 10 cents each (maybe), so throwing them out is no big deal. Solder and heat shrink tubing is probably best for "permanent" connections. Dave
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