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About osprey

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  1. FIXED IT. thanks to all you chaps who took the time to help me, it was the mechanic who welded the casing back together that caused the fault, not only had he put the pick up in upside down, he had also put them in the wrong way round, turned them round and she runs like a baby, 1st or 2nd kick every time. so i have this to say to the mechanic and this to say to all you guys.
  2. hi chaps, quick update. no it dosent run yet but we are getting closer, i bought another dr 350 for spares, its roughfly the same but not the full dirt model, anyway this one will start but will cut out after 15 seconds, it has the trashy carb on aswell, not the nice pumper. ahyway, i took the magneto cover off to inspect the coils, guess what i discovered, one of the coils was lower down than on my bike so at first i thought we couldent change the cover complete and that the set up was completely different, then i had a thought , i looked at both fly wheels with the timming marks on them and they were the same, as in exactly,yet the pickups were in a different position,emmmm. ,something not right here, then it clicked, the stupid mechanic who put the bike back together after welding the case put one of the pick ups in upside down so it wasent in line with the raised bar on the fly wheel.i turned it round, replaced the cover and hey presto it still wont bloody start. , it was the back fire pick up that was the wrong way round, we keep kicking the bike, sometimes we even kick the kick start instead of the bike,hehehe, it is firing and keeps bursting into life for about 1 second then dies off, im sure ive sussed the fault but now have a proper starting fault that has probally been caused by messing around with every thing else. it wont bump start either. does anyone have the resistance figures for the two pick up coils in the magneto housing, my book says 130 - 250 ish but im getting 465 from both my bike and the one we bought for spares, damm confusing, any suggestions ?
  3. had a quick look at my horn for you today, it has no part number stamped on it so cant tell you what it was from but looked like the sort of thing you see on a moped or 50 cc step through, your dr is 12 volt and there isent a great deal of current left over once the lights are on,but there again, you wont be using the horn that often and for any length of time. best thing to do is visit the bike shop and see whats available, im sure thye would have done this before.
  4. just noticed your in california and im in the uk, it may be cheaper for you to pick a horn up from a breakers yard, if you find a car that has two tone twin horns then they are usually small and thin so will fit well.
  5. i dont have a pic at the moment but will try and get you one, its mounted behind the headlight, do you know them straight brackets you can buy from car shops that bolt to the back of your stereo to stop thieves knicking it ? well one of these cut down will hold the horn to the headstock, tell you what. im at the bike jumble tomorow so if i see a cheap one for a quid or so i will pick you one up and pop it in the post to you with a wiring diagram, you will need a switch also, a kill switch from the dr is what we use on ours as its only live when pushed on. failing that i have a few horns from landrovers that are small enough to do what you want, can pop one of them to you if you like. best regards,pete
  6. hi there, yes it can be done, we have a dirt model also and a horn has been fitted splicing into the headlight feed as this is permanantly on, the earth has been taken from the cut off switch, i dont know which horn was used but i imagine any small horn would do the job, remember to splice those wires in properly and cover with heat shrink, dont use scotch locka or pvc tape, the dr dosent like bad wiring and will start to give you missfiring problams if you dont. hope that helps.
  7. damm good post fl-cracker, this is exactly the sort of thing we are getting, starts eventually and sometimes starts straight away but bogs down when revved and under load, we done a load of resistance testing today, we are getting a strange resistance from the magnetic pick up coils, the reading we got from the main pick up was 486 ohms, the book states it should be 180-270 ohms, next we did the backfire preventor pick up and got the same reading, the book dosent show the reading for this, we tried disconnecting the backfire preventor pick up and the bike wont spark so it has to be connected, we was going to try and swap the pick ups with each other but with them both having the same reading we decided it wouldent be worth while. two thoughts spring to mind from these readings, either we have a model dr that the book dosent cater for so the readings in the book are not applicable to this bike. when the casing was welded the pick ups were not removed and were treated to a load of heat from the tig welder resulting in damage to the pick ups. problam with the theory is that the bike will start and we do have a big blue spark. does anyone out there in the uk have a dr 350 for spares, we can travel and collect no problam, i want to get to the bottom of this and could do with a few parts to interchange. going back to the previous post again, the wiring behind the headlight is a mixture of connectors and pvc tape so the next area we were going to cover was tidying this lot up, it has had a horn fitted for uk mot.
  8. thanks for taking the time to check your spark bc rider. we do have a nice crackling blue spark which told us it was the fuel side but there just isent anything amiss on the fuel side that we could see, hence why we thought it may be spark breaking down once the bike was running. i dident do a resistance check on the wires, only a continuity test, i will do some more wire testing today and try to put the wiring side to bed. will post findings tonight.
  9. just a quick one for toby, regarding your offer of cdi borrowing, im a little concerned that by putting your cdi box on my bike, there may be a fault that we havent found that may damage your cdi box, after all we dont know what the fault is as yet, how about this instead, i send you my cdi box, try it on your bike, if yours runs a treat then it wont be that, with your bike running ok there is no risk of hurting your cdi, just a thought, another stunning thought is that we do regular trips down to ruislip off the a40 collecting and delivering vehicle parts for our business, i can load the bike into the van and take a trip over to you or just the cdi, i will in the mean time try to eliminate all other possibilitys. ohh,by the way, the coil pack passed the test and is running ok, also the wires to the coil from the cdi passed the continuity test also.
  10. bc rider, good post. i think we are starting to get something here. let me explain, i have the case and magneto here in front of me, i have checked the continuity of all the wires on a bleep test and wiggled them all around with no bad wires found, im looking at the repair right now, it only cracked the top of the case and dident actually get into the magneto housing, just smashed where the wires go in, now i have two points to make here, firstly the gasket has not been removed from the case, it is well and truely stuck down, the bike shop said they had sent the windings away for test and they were ok but tell me this, how do you get the windings out of the cover when the wiring passes under the gasket, before anyone says they could have changed the gasket then i think not, the bike hasent been run for long enough to allow the gasket to seal itself. you can only do it by removing the gasket so theres no way they have been removed, secondly, the casing has been welded up, to weld alloy properly you would need a tig welder, tig welders run on electricity, havent we all been told to disconnect our batterys on the car before welding as damage may occur to the alternator. could this be what has happened here ie case welded whilst windings in situ, high current passed through the windings resulting in damage to the windings, iknow its a bit of a long shot but can anyone prove my theory wrong ? after all the miss fire only occured after the chain snapping incident and yes i am starting to think that the mechanic who put her back together has done something wrong. just to let you know the windings do not look burnt or smell burnt
  11. thanks bc rider, nice post, we did check the plug colour many times and it has allways been black and sooty indicating a rich mixture but we havent had the bike running for long enough to do a proper test, we cant get her up in the top gears so are having to use our judgement on riding through the lower gears. i understand what you are saying with the larger jets but the fault occured when the chap lost the chain, it has allways run well before then with the jets it allready has so although doing this mod may make it run better we still have to find what the original fault was to start with, the last owner had the bike for 8 years and loved it up to the day it lost the chain. the bike is kick start only and dosent have a battery. looking at all the evidence i have allways been convinced that it is the carb at fault or the fuel side somewhere but have never found anything to prove me right, with the new info i got yesterday on the sudden stop has given me a few ideas on where to check next and also eliminates the carb side as the bike was running good untill the sudden stop and that cant cause a carb to start playing up, on the electrical side we do have a spark, what we cant see though and cant test is wether we have a spark at high revs or if the spark is losing its power, also we cant see if the spark is being fired at the right time. it may seem a bit "heath robinson" replacing wires just for the sake of it to see if we have a broken one but we have to find a way to eliminate every eventuality so we end up with the fault and nothing we have tried so far has worked.
  12. good one K. i will check cam chain tomorow all being well, i think the bad starting is just me not knowing how it likes to be started but untill i get her to run i wont know what method it prefers. bit like a woman really, you got to tickle her properly or you aint getting nothing.
  13. ok chaps, we have news, i have managed to track down the previous owner and had a long chat with him about the bike, he told me this. he was going up a bank at about walking pace in 1st gear when the chain snapped, it cracked the magneto casing which has been welded scince. the bad running happened from this day onwards, he could ride it but it became difficult to start and miss fired, he could only ride it slowly, he sold the bike there after as he couldent get it to run right, he sold it to the bike shop where i bought it from who did the following to it to try and cure it. checked timming. checked valves. cleaned carb. new plug abd cap. had the generator checked and was ok. they were unsuccesful in repairing it which is when i took it on. can engine damage occur when the chain snaps at 5 mph, the bike did stop suddenly ? i dont think it can as its to slow and the bike will still run although it back fires. it seems to me that the timming is out although the bike shop says they have checked it, how do you go about checking the timming statically as it dosent seem to show it in the manual. im still convinced we have a snapped wire in the main loom thats giving an intermittent misfire. tomorow i think i will start replacing the wires from the magneto to the cdi box and the ones from the cdi to the coil, if anyone thinks this is a bad idea then please say so, the only thing i can think of as a bad point to this is if the wires are of a particular resistance and we go and change them for a different resistance wire. any one got any brain waves after getting this new information ?
  14. thanks toby, appreciate your offer, had another bash on saturday, bike started well but would pop back through the exhaust at high revs, adjusted the fuel screw and tapped up the holes in the air box and the bike ran better but it still had the misfire, replaced the black wire with blue tracer back to the cdi from the coil and no difference, tried many different adjustments on the piolet screw and we are now back to bike trying to start but wont, we spent all day tinkering with it but it just wouldent go, have now sent the coil into the bike shop for testing just to eliminate it, when it comes back i shall replace the black and white wire and see if that helps, if not then your offer may be very tempting, where abouts in the uk are you ? we have a van and can bring the bike to you for testing the cdi depending on where abouts you are, we are in sunny scarborough in north yorkshire.
  15. hi toby, i have taken on board what you are suggesting and can see the logic, i take it you are reffering to the black wire with the white tracer running from the coil back to the cdi box, if i was to start rewiring each individual wire untill the fault was found then in what order would you do it. ie which wire is most likely to give these symptons or is it pot luck untill you strike gold. ive got to bomb down to london tomorow on business so wont be back untill friday, weve got a play day sorted for sunday so only have a day and a half to get bike sorted, any more suggestions or if any one knows which wire to change first then please let me know so i can get on the job as soon as i get back.