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Nanotech9

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About Nanotech9

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    Oklahoma
  1. i'm in the process of getting my '04 KTM 450 EXC registered here in oklahoma... last time i did this, I used a "build sheet" for building a custom vehicle... you put down all the various source vin's for the motor / frame / etc and then you have an area where you can get a new VIN assigned of your choosing.... my question is, that with the bike being an '04 and not needing to pass CARB (?) tests or have a sticker (is that right?), if i can get the VIN legally changed here to a custom VIN, where the 8th digit isn't a C or a 3, will i be able to offer my bike for sale in california? I'm doing this for 2 reasons... 1, to try to make it more valuable during resale, and the other, well, those folks in CA need as much help as they can getting street legal MX bikes over there... thoughts?
  2. like you have a choice? lol.
  3. well... every manufacturer seems to leave out something that the user wishes was there... usually only found through rigorous user testing... i was excited to see the bike had remote adjustment on the rear shock and both compression and recoil adjustments. Of course, i'm looking on the brighter side of things - i just picked this bike up a few weeks ago and it had maybe 1, or 2 hours on it... the factory plastics were not only scratch free, but they were dirt free. Not a single stain anywhere on the plastics, frame, under bolts, nothing. The factory tires still had titties 1" on either side of center.... all for $925. All in all i'm super happy with the bike though. If anyone wants more details on the build let me know. I'll take some measurements etc.
  4. none of you guys really know me on here as i usually come around to hunt the classifieds or pick up tuning tips for my supermotos... but a buddy's wife had the chain come off her TTR a couple weeks ago, mid-trail ride, and we got to talking about a chain guide... One thing we both agreed on was $70+ for a chain guide (although super pimp looking) was just too much... we both own TTR-125L bikes for our womenfolks to ride so he found the DYI project chain guide for an XR100 which kinda helped make heads and tails of it, but it was the wrong dimensions. I spent a little time taking measurements and finally came up with what you see in the pictures below. (note that the pics of it installed ON the bike are before i took it off and finished milling the recesses.) Now i just need to get it anodized Black or Blue.... Specs: outside plate: 1/4" thick aluminum inside plate: 1/8" thick aluminum black side walls: .125 thick KYDEX (used in making Gun and Knife holsters) bottom: 2x .430 thick cutting board (will replace with correct width DELRIN next time) bottom bolts: 8x32
  5. I have a set of RAD hubs... for the last two years i've run them no problem... then i run 250 miles on a roadtrip in a day and come back to change tires, and i notice half of my front rotor carrier bolts are loose and one is backed out half way. I check and sure enough they all have white dust on them from old locktite... i throw some blue on them all and button it back up. do the same with all the other carrier bolts. It happens. Not usually with locktite, but it happens. I also warped a rotor really badly at Hallett (roadcourse) and didnt realize it till weeks later - it wasnt warped back and forth, but the entire rotor dished in towards the wheel - looked like a ceramic plate. The brakes still worked OK, but the bike was hard to push and i couldn't figure out why for a long time. Then i noticed the caliper looked like it was "bent in" or tilted in, and that after setting 30min, the brakes had to be pumped up to start working right. The caliper was flexing with the rotor, some. when at rest, the rotor would push the pads in a little. Still though, as warped as it was, it rode fine. Reson for this story is to say that sometimes something can be wrong, but not wrong enough for you to notice exactly what it is, and it'll still function for some time.... I know, that doesnt help much. lol.
  6. the anodizing is still nearly intact inside the threads where the rotor mounts (on the ones visible)... this tells me it did NOt rip the bolts out of the threads, but more likely they bolts backed out... all but one? or two? and allowed the caliper to rip the rotor off the hub. a couple of the bolt holes have a little anodizing worn off right at the surface - probably where the bolts were barely hanging on and started to "jiggle around" right before the rotor ripped completely off. what was the squeeking? a bolt head rubbing? a bearing? brake pads? warped rotor?
  7. i think you're confused? the coil that i'm referring to is the ignition coil, not the lighting coil or stator. i.e. the coil that sparks the spark plug. If your moose stator isn't cutting it, maybe its your setup? you running the system A/C still, or swap over to a DC regulator / rectifier w/ a battery in the system?
  8. i've searched a bunch, and keep coming up with the same results... everyone "SAYS" that a GSXR coil will work instead of a busa coil, but nobody that i've found actually has USED a GSXR coil. I know an R6 coil is the same as a Busa (have a buddy who works on bike use an R6 coil on a Busa when he couldn't get ahold of a busa coil), but haven't had any luck on teh GSXR coil. Me and a buddy both got GSXR 1000 coils and connectors for cheap. He tried his the other day and says all his bike does is sputter and pop. I didnt try mine after that. Does anyone have a concrete answer to the G1k coil working? or is it all stipulation? THANKS!
  9. she fired off at 14!!!!!!!!!!!! good grief this has been a long road. I think the only thing keeping this from working was the cold. That really pisses me off lol. Thanks for the help guys. I guess i had it right all along... just like everyone said. Now i know... and maybe this will help anyone else having the same problems. 14 pins is the magic number just like everyone says. and never try to mod and start a very cold motor. lol.
  10. oklahoma city.... i spoke with a guy on the phone (local racer) that had installed several of these a while back... we pretty much concurred that i was right on the money. so, i threw the stock cam back in, and to my surprise it took over 20 kicks to get it to sputter and a few more to fire off... I keep thinking i'm doing this all in a heated garage, but my heat is a combo of my dryer and a keroseen wick heater (big one) so the garage gets warm quick, but i noticed the motor is still freezing from overnight (down in the high 20s over night). So, i let it run 30seconds with the stock cam to warm the cylinder up a bit and put the 450 cam back in at 13 pins... suprisingly, now i'm getting some backfiring and poping and what seems like a half-assed attempt at starting. So, i'm gonna try 14 pins in a bit. I'm winded from kicking that thing over about 4 dozen times in rapid succession. I'll get back with you guys.
  11. ok... finally have some pics..... Checked the plug - good spark (pulled plug, kicked it over and watched it spark) Look at these pictures, and tell me if my stock cam isnt pointing just a little "low".....? I wonder if i need to rotate it one tooth counter clockwise after setting everything at 14 pins? Flywheel at TDC. 450 Cam with 14pins between 12 O'clock marks as called for in the PDF 450 Cam with 13 pins between 12 O'clock marks which actually aligns with stock cam lobe marks. Doesnt start on either.... Unless i just can't figure out how to check the valve lash properly and am still way out....
  12. problem is, i'm honest to god following al the "rules" to installing these. I'm happy to check the plug and check that it runs with the stock cams - that should take me about 10min.... (might put that off till tomorrow - i have a splitting headache). With stock cams, the bike starts, FIRST kick, or if its been sitting over a week, then sometimes it takes 3 kicks. Never more, never fouls, always runs good. Something else i did not mention earlier. with the STOCK CAMS, at TDC, the IN cam lobe is lying nearly flat on the top, and the EX cam is pointing up maybe 5deg. They are not equally level at TDC. This seems to be the ONLY oddity in comparison to everyones else's experiences. maybe my Stock IN cam isnt really stock? Any markings i should check for on the IN cam to verify stock or not?
  13. short and sweet: Bike is a 2000 model YZ426, steel valves. WR426 heavy flywheel and stator (for lights). bought the '03 YZ450 auto decomp cam new from the dealer a year ago, never installed it. Rebuilt my motor 4 months ago myself, all new bearings (all new everything). Tried installing the 450 cam then, following the "PDF" etc, no luck. Dropped my 426 cam in, fired off 3rd kick from a fresh rebuild. Rode it like that for 4 months. Tore bike down to install another shock, decided to give the 450cam another shot. Removed valve cover, set piston to TDC. Ziptied IN cam at the 12 mark to the chain. Verified Timing again. Used a scribe to mark the angle of the tops of the cam lobes on the right side of the cam caps (with the CCT still installed). Counted 12 PINS between stock 12:00 marks on IN and EX cams. = Try 1========= Installed 450 cam with 12 pins between 12:00 marks, installed tensioner (CCT). Checked scribed marks. EX lobe sits point at a HIGHER angle on top. EX valves with 450cam have .033mm and .035mm of gap. Stock range is between .025 and .030. I'm too loose by .003 and .005mm respectively. Buttoned it all up, no go, as expected. = Try 2========= Installed 450 cam with 13 pins between 12:00 marks, installed CCT. Checked Scribed marks. 450 EX lobe sits DEAD ON to the marks from the stock EX lobe. Same valve gaps. Buttoned it all up, no go. SUPRISED. = Try 3========= Installed 450 cam with 14 pins between 12:00 marks, as called for by "THE PDF", installed CCT. Checked Scribed marks. 450 EX lobe sits LOWER than the stock EX lobe at TDC. Same valve gaps. Buttoned all up, no go, as expected. = Try 4========= Same as above. 14 pins between 12 marks. Re-gapped the valves to be .029 and .030mm tolerance, within factory spec. NO GO. = Try 5========= Haven't tried it yet. Very frustrated. Gaps set within factory specs, going to go back to 13pins between 12" marks. ============================= Cylinder reads 426 c3. back of cylinder or cases (can't remember) says Y - Z (assuming this indicates that indeed it IS a YZ motor not a WR). I've both timed this bike a half dozen times with the stock cams and its run perfectly every time, same with the valve clearances. I've built this motor from the ground up, head and bearings and everything. There was not ONE part left in the cases during this process. Although i feel like a complete idiot trying to do this mod, i just can't accept that I am, but believe more that i'm missing some key piece of information. Is it possible that i have a WR head and WR cams? or maybe this is a stock 400 head and 400 cams? Would i not have found problems while ordering all new valves, springs, keepers, cam chain, etc for the head when i rebuilt it? What other possibilities are there that I'm ignorant of? PLEASE HELP. I"M PULLING MY HAIR OUT!
  14. sooo... after dozens of attempts to start my bike, and not even a HINT of ignition, I pulled the YZ450 cam out of my bike. I installed my regular old 426 cam, and 3 kicks and she started right up. I compared the 426 cam and the 450 cam... the stock 426cams installed have 12 pins between the 12:00 marks on them. With the 450 cam, i had (as per the instructions) 14pins between the 12:00 marks, while keeping the intake cam timed correctly with TDC. That doesnt sound right... all these posts in this thread make it sound like the 450 cam only gets "offset" counterclockwise by 1 pin, not 2... but to get 14pins, it was rotated 2 pins from stock. Is that normal for a YZ426? is there any chance my motor is a WR in a YZ frame? (i bought my bike WELL USED). Is there any visual difference in the YZ and WR motors?
  15. she was sitting in the driveway at 2am completely assembled... but she doesnt run. I guess i'll be checking for spark, then fuel (carb was dry for 6 months on my workbench).... Hoping its something simple. I'm not the smartest person in teh world, but not the dumbest either... i so dead sure she would fire over on the 3rd or 4th kick.... Shes got compression, and i lined up the intake cam to TDC and made sure there was 14 pins between the top intake mark and the top 450exhaust cam mark.... probably (hopefully) something simple like a bad plug (yeah, i could only find my old plug at 1am so i cleaned it up and used it...)