Scooter33

Members
  • Content count

    72
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About Scooter33

  • Rank
    TT Member

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kansas
  1. Chances are, it is not going to be fine. Only problem is that gear is a pressed part into the basket. He will need to buy a new basket. I don't know of any other quick fix.
  2. 5JG-14940-76-00 Stock
  3. Just go to your local shop and ask for a flywheel puller for a Yamaha Banshee. It is the same puller and there are more chances of one lying around in the shops.
  4. Just refreshing review for new viewers:thumbsup:
  5. I am tring to think this out in my head, but i believe that if you have the puller,a cresent wrench, and the socket for the center push bolt it it can be done without an impact, as long as you have enough leverage. The puller is a left hand thread puller. thread in the puller until it bottoms out. Then install the push bolt until it stops. when you hold the larger part of the puller with the cresent wrench and then turn the push bolt clockwise it should stay in place and not try to come unscrewed. The lager part of the puller will have two machined flat spots for the cresent wrench to grab hold of. If the puller was a right hand thread and the push rod was a right hand thread this would not work, but you in luck. Oops! Just realized you havn't got the nut off yet! Hate to say it bro, but if you don't have the flywheel holder you are going to need an air impact. (Last resort)You can try to put the bike in a high gear (like 4th or 5th) and then stand on the rear brake while someone tries to get the nut to break loose. Sharp blowes to the ratchet with a hammer will increase you chances instead of constant pressure. Make sure the slack is out of the chain before you start the sharp blows with the hammer, and tell your buddy not to slip off the nut and strip it. Takes some skill but it can be done.
  6. Av, I haven't encountered any problems with slow rollons with our product at the track. You can hold the throttle at the same position at mid throttle and the bike acts just fine. It dosen't rev up or speed up like it was leaning out. There will be no problems with trail riders.
  7. The a/p is not my main source of my jetting. The bike responds very well to other changes in the circuits. I have had it jetted to the dyno just to go to the track all excited to ride and then it runs like a terd becuase all of the extra fuel. Trust me I have been through this a time or two. I think that this is more common than you think with jetting bikes to dyno's. I think dyno's are a good tool for setting a baseline for jetting but once you get to the track sometimes you might have to do some tweaking around. I just don't see how you can tell me what I can and can't do with you not having any experience with this product. If it takes more reviews from other people to win everyones trust then so be it! I just hope my pocket book can handle it!
  8. The runs take about 4-5 seconds in fourth gear to reach redline. That's where I run into a lean problem on the dyno because my a/p is only good for about 2.5 seconds. On the track this isn't a problem because I am really never in the same gear for more than 3 seconds. The dyno that I used each time was set up for four wheelers but it had a bike attachment. I don't know dyno's that much but does it need to be recalubrated for bikes? As far as wheel resistance or is all the same ?
  9. You have it right. They didn't give you any instructions? Have you checked the ring end gap? If not, place the ring byitself into the cylinder using the piston to push the ring down a ways. This helps to get the ring in straight so you can measure the end gap. Then measure accross the cylinder to see how big the bore is. Say it is 3.5 inches for example. wiseco say's that you should have .004" clearance of end gap per inch of bore. So your end gap shoud be .004+.004+.004+.002= .014". Also, when you put the rings back on the piston, I always place the ring end gaps 180 degrees away from each other. I place the ring gaps on each side of the piston because the piston will typically wear more on the front side and back side. This keeps the the ring gaps away from the typical wear spots. This is more evident on two strokes than four. Hope this helps
  10. I have a few minutes to address some of your guy's comments. Refund of product: I wish i could offer this but does fmf or procircuit offer one on there products? I will however, give you a one year warranty on the fan itself. Consumer fraud: I know this goes on and that is the last thing I want to do. I would be an idiot to try and sell this concept for the last two years just to make a few dollars. Dyno: I have done this many times and I have gained 2hp, but then once I arrive at the track the bike won't run worth a darn. I believe this is caused from me using the a/p as a main jet source. A typical dyno run last about 4-5 seconds. My a/p squirts for 2.5 seconds then I go lean on the dyno. If I can find a dyno that will allow me to do comparison runs in about 3 second pulls then it would be a good comparison tool for all of us. So far I haven’t been able to find one set up that way. I have tried making my runs in 2nd or 3 gear to speed up the pull but bikes don't make peak hp readings unless you use 4th gear, witch is closer to a 1:1 ratio. ama: As far as the ama is concerned I haven't even been in contact with them about our product. I just figured that there are plenty of people out there that don't ride ama sanctioned events. I will make my plea to them though and see what response I get. cfm: The cfm for this fan is 200 in an OPEN AIR ENVIROMENT. I have not flow tested the air through the boot, I do know that air flow is not a problem. In no way is there any flow restrictions caused by the housing. Supercharging: I have said from the beginning that this is not a Supercharger nor was it ever meant to be. I know the difference. Like said axial fans provide cfm, not much pressure. This product does help the motor breath better which is obvious from the jetting changes. I am sure I missed some issues and I will try to address them later.
  11. Man you guy's are a tough crowd. You guy's picked a person to do a review on our product and then you bash what he has to say about the results!!! I realize it took me darn near two years to deliver a product to him for a review but that is beside the point. I am trully saddened that everybody thinks they know everything because they can put it on paper and that's the way it is. Period... That kinda slams the door on future technology. Someone said that the jet kit that is included only effected 1/4 throttle. The truth is that the a/p diaphragm changes the squirt duration from .7 sec. to 2.5 sec. That is a lot of fuel. The truth is, we couldn't get enough fuel through the regular circuits to keep up with the fan so we had the change the a/p. I could swing back all day long but that isn't what I want. If anyone has any questions just call us or p/m me. Kelstr- I am sorry if these guys make you feel that you have wasted your time, but I am glad that you liked our product and we thank you for your time:thumbsup:
  12. I always set my ring gaps as follows: .004" gap per inch of bore. Example, if the bore meas. 3 1/2 inches across then the ring gap would be 4+4+4+2= .014". hope this helps.
  13. The .080 over just means that the current sleeve that is in the bike is close to it's last bore. Then you will need someone to press the old sleeve out of the cylinder and press a new one in. Once the sleeve is installed you will need to have it bored to stock size because the sleeves come undersized so you can get a fresh bore to the stock size. Once that is done don't forget to champher the ports to prevent the rings from catching.
  14. If i'm not mistaken, unsprung weight is anything that does not effect the shock or forks. For example, both wheels, rear sprocket, chain, brake rotors, and I would even say the swingarm is unsprung weight. As far as saving weight there isn't much you can do unless you have an unlimited amount of cash flow. talon hubs, wave rotors, lightened sprocket, ect. You could save alot of unspring weight going with convitional forks but there isn't much tech. in conventional forks. Unsprung weight is kinda important that some exist because your back wheel would break loose all the time if there wasn't. There is more options to save sprung weight than unsprung. The more sprung weight that you can loose will actually help in two areas. First you lower the overall weight, plus doing so you lower the center of gravity of your bike making it easier to move the bike around. Today bikes are the lighest that I have ever seen. Back in the day imagine thowing around a 230 lb bike all day with half the suspension that we have now.
  15. Put the shock body in a vise. Turn your compression screw counterclockwise all the way out. This will let the oil transfer easier from each side and it will help get air out of the valve body. Fill the resivore up half way with your oil then fill the shock body to 1/2 inch below the lowest circlip position. Tap your shock body around a little bit to raise any air boubles. Install the shock shaft. Push the piston into the oil just far enough for you to be able to install the circlip. Some oil should overflow the piston, This helps ensure that all the air is kept out. Slowly pump the pistin in about a half inch. This forces oil through your compression valve, thus getting the air out of the valve. Then slowly pull back the piston until the seal head stops against the circlip. Now you are ready to install the bladder. Test the oil level by inserting the bladder until oil seaps out around the seal right before you push the bladder in past the circlip groove. Once you have installed the circlip pull the bladder back against the circlip using some soft grip pliers. Now find someone that trust your rebuild and have them charge the shock with nitrogen. I believe that the range is around 150-170 pounds. Hope this helps