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      JUST IN!   07/18/2018

      Video: 2019 Yamaha YZ250F Features & Benefits 


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About MotorGus

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  1. Went for a ride with a mate today and after a few hours i see this: First it was the LH fork leaking oil in the top, then a broken center clamp... *** ? ride ended right there. What i find weird is that we weren't doing anything "radical" It was this guy 2nd ride, and he is new to bikes, it was all very soft roads... Bike is a pristine 2004 LC4 640 Enduro with less than 6000 miles... This happened on the ride as i watched the area carefuly when the oil appeared on top in beggining of the ride.. Any other known cases!? Anyone with a spare top triple clamp!?
  2. That looks to be a QUITE polished bike!
  3. Lukas, thats a nice tip. Already got a sheet of aluminum, will start working soon. About the morocco pics, i'll get to them also soon... how soon? dunno!
  4. Unfortunatly the amount of dust accumulated in the AP shaft area is preventing the correct shaft operation movement... So many TM40 users and few noticed this!? There has to be a solution, without going the FCR or BST way.
  5. Gent's On my latest trip to Morocco, while doing the southern beach tracks, the salty environment got really hard into my bike. Long story short: the area near the footrests and swingarm pivot is bare metal due to friction with boots. the problem is that now everytime i stop for more than a few hours in moisty areas it will start to rust. Not nice! I'd like to paint back the area and apply those frame guards or frame protectors, don't know the exact expression, as i've seen on other dirt bikes. Any suggestions? Home made stuff is always welcome too!
  6. I feel your pain... by looking at my DR i only recognize as being part of the stock model: the engine, yet the insides have been messed up, frame, swingarm, rear wheel and side covers... Yet this carb issue is bugging me. Stu, yes i have the HS40 manual, and i recall that maneuvre to fine tune the float level. I've done it, but now i'll have to take the carb out (again.......) and re-check it.
  7. It only happens sometimes, but i've missed count of how many times i removed the lower bowl to check for float level... I'm thinking about building a fuel recovery system for the excessive fuel that comes out. Thats linked with the main line and the fuel pump.... huummm I noticed it is really dirtness, the AP rod is perfectly straight, the problem is the rubber boot, it gets sticky... I sprayed wd40 inside and it solved for the moment and at least for the last 100 mile ride I'm at sealevel
  8. The TM40 is almost working properly, jetting is 22.5 pilot and 145 main. Needle is on 2nd groove from top. Just to keep it economical. Been averaging 50 mpg on mixed riding. 2 issues: a) sometimes when i stop, the overflow tube from floatbowl spills alot of fuel, i mean alot. Sometimes i have to close the fuel line. I already changed the floatlevel in order to close the valve sooner. Valve seems to be sealing, at least i tested it both with liquid and air and it worked fine. Still sometimes it stays open and spills fuel. Any suggestions? the AP shaft gets stuck. Shaft is not bent, but the rubber seal seems to get really stiff so the shaft won't move properly. The AP top actuator is fine tuned, and it works properly, it's the shat that get quite alot of resistance. i've added a bit of grease into the rubber boot, so far seems to be ok, but have you had a similar "problem" ? thanks Gus
  9. Yes i meant the smaller ones. The vaccum hose is connected to the fuel pump (mech). thanks!
  10. Thumpididump, will order a few jets so i can mess around. regarding this: there are two hose exits, one on each side, are these venting channels, each has an individual hose, or these are to be connected with one hose? could not find any info regarding it...
  11. Got my TM40 working on the DR650 with jets: Main 145 and Pilot 32.5, needle clip on the 2nd groove from top, and top cut air box. Runs nice, but could be nicer. Plugs have the brown tan color, no black smoke, MPG seems good too. Low end has lots of grunt, wheelies are coming naturally with 16-43 tranny on 1st and 2nd gears, however it still seems medium to top end is a bit underpowered, and sometimes when sitting idle at the traffic lights, occasionally it literally misses a beat, for less than a second i feel the engine stalling and then getting back to idle. Maybe i need to play a bit more with the pilot screw!? And finally, i keep forgetting to ask this: there are two hose exits, one on each side, are these venting channels, each has an individual hose, or these are to be connected with one hose?
  12. Forgot to mention this setup was recommendeed for a top cut open airbox. What do you think?
  13. Given my by bike current setup, what would be the best carb setup? I've been suggested to use 160 main, 40 pilot, needle y4, clip on 3rd groove and one turn out on the fuel screw. I'm also unfamiliar with the nozzle, is the golden thingy that sprays fuel into the slide?
  14. Need help here: Used TM40 Main jet : 145 Pilot : 32.5 Needle : Y4, clip on 3rd groove from top Pilot Air : 1.1 Bike 97 DR650SE larger header tunning camshaft uncut, de-snorkeled airbox GSXR can Pilot screw adjusted: 2 turns out Symtoms: A bit hard to start. Idles fine, engine response is crisp, with a noticeable bog when opening the throttle, after that it will recover and may even pull the front wheel. Bike feels unpredictable, not fun. delayed the AP operation to 1/5 throttle and improved driveability, but still not close to be acceptable Plugs out: black sooted, very rich mixture. It seems like a setup for a full cut airbox. Your opinions please
  15. Hi, My 97 DR650se is giving me a head ache (another). here's why: engine off, lights off, 12.7 volts at the battery. At idle, lights off, reads 13.0 volts at the battery. Same condition, lights on, 13,5 ~ 13,8 volts. Reving up, lights off, 13.0 volts at the battery. Same condition, lights on, 12,0 ~ 11,0 volts. No electric extras. All wires coming from the stator have continuity between them and up to the regulator connector. AC current on all 3 wires from stator at mid revs is +75 volts. Tried 2 regulators, (have a spare one, but can't promise there won't be a chance of both being damaged at once, however...slim....) no change of the above. Battery installed is a CTZ10S, not the standard YTX9 due to being temporarly out of stock bike was used daily (maybe 2 weeks), however i noticed everyday that starting crank was weaker and weaker, till last sunday, after a ride, didn't crank at all. After push starting, i did the trip back home, maybe 12 kms, and when got home, no crank at all again. Left it charging overnight, and yesterday, it was like brand new, full crank and fired right up, however the voltage was pretty high 15~16 volts. This is puzzling me, as if the charging system wasn't working properly i doubt i could be driving 12kms. On the other hand after those 12 kms, battery was dead, but after one night on the charger, was full. current battery was taken temporarly out of another bike, which was running fine and it's just a few months old Your comments and suggestions are much appreciated.