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kozmo

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About kozmo

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Location
    Ontario
  1. www.onbike.tv
  2. Mike, Yes, we do talk too much! BBQ black is a poor choice as it tends to just turn to a powder and wipe off. The best product I've found is a high heat paint made by PJ1 called "FAST BLACK", though it is difficult to find. Any auto speed shop should have a good header paint that should work. This is the main reason I put a stainless aftermarket pipe on my DRZ and put the stock pipe away for when I sell it. What's curious is that my friends wife has a DR200 and it comes stock with some sort of protective coating yet the 400 is just painted???
  3. OSITECH, Regarding the RHC cams, they don't seem to be listed on his website. Did you just contact Ron directly? Was the price comparable to the other options? I was planning on the HC stage 2 in / stage 1 ex set-up, but now you have me reconsidering my options.
  4. Absolutely true, much better off investing in a proven set-up, especially if you are just trying to copy the same specs anyway.
  5. True, but that is plenty, the difference in lift between a stock S intake and the HC stage 2 is just over 1mm
  6. I'll second that, the plastic guards are available in two sizes to provide full or partial coverage. (scag52 has the full version, mine are the partial) As far as protection, I've personally tested these against a tree that bent the handlebars, but I still have all my fingers. Hey, and they look good too!
  7. Aaron, Sorry if this seems real basic, but did you happen to re-oil the air filter when you installed the new carb? Your symptoms sound like it can't breath and might be caused by a filter that is to wet.
  8. No need to build up with weld, the base circle can be reduced when regrinding and the valves shimmed accordingly, effectively creating more lift. We used to do this all the time, back before we had all these options to just buy good cams off the shelf. I would agree though, easier to just buy a Hotcams or RHC set-up unless you're after some "unobtainium" custom ground profile.
  9. By the book, 1800cc's or 1.9 quarts
  10. I’m in the process of preparing a big bore for my SM and have a question regarding the 94 & 94.5mm pistons. I’ve searched the archives and from what I can gather you can bore and plate the cylinder for 94mm, but it’s recommended to install an aluminum sleeve, bore and plate for the 94.5mm Is this correct? I don’t have a cylinder in front of me at the moment so it's not obvious to me what the issues are. Do the cylinder skirts become to weak or does the bore get too close to water jackets? Or? My plan is to go with the 94mm JE piston anyway; just curious as to why the last half-millimeter in bore diameter is so critical. Thanks in advance.
  11. Just so we don't beat up on Starcycle to badly, they where excellent and very professional with me, I was on and off the phone with them in a matter minutes, but I was armed with the correct numbers before I called. I guess it all depends on who answers the phone. Package arrived to Canada in a few days and the shipping was cheap. If I was to do it again though, I would lean on the TT store and give them a chance to match it.
  12. Good point, Most of what you said above regarding the 1014 & 1017 prefix is correct. The problem is the second list with the SM pipes with the 1014 prefix, I'm told by Muzzy that these numbers don't exist and this is an error by Starcycle. They only exist with the 1017 prefix and Starcycle is aware of there error. Granted, Muzzys would probably realize what you wanted and send the correct unit, but I've read allot of posts here with people receiving incorrect pipes. Also, the main point was that the other pipes listed from xxxx-00053 to xxxx-00056 are in fact for the E version. They will fit the S, SR $ SM but will require some modification to the mid-pipe (foot-peg) mount, and the exhaust tip will point directly at the turn signal which will melt it. The pipes in the second list fit the S, SR & SM without any issues and exit below the stock turn signals. (see my garage) (Muzzys doesn't even list these on there own website) Hope this makes some sense, it didn't for me until I called Muzzys directly and they cleared it up. They seemed reluctant to give me the correct part numbers only offering to sell me the correct fitting pipe for my SM directly from them, which was much more expensive than Pipecity, Starcycle or TT store. Awesome pipe BTW, well worth it after getting past the whole part number confusion thing.
  13. I had the TTR250.com graphics shipped here no problem and they seem better than the OEM because they are perforated. Regardless of what you put on they will bubble up in time because of the fuel vapor being trapped underneath after it has penetrated thru the plastic tank. I think he's offering a better deal on fleabay than his website if I remember correctly.
  14. Pipecity has the correct info, Starcycle has the better price. The 1017-00092 number you provided is correct for the S & SM models, the Starcycle listing has 1014-xxxx which is a Kawasaki designation and incorrect for these particular pipes. Last I heard there was a shortage of Titanium material and Muzzy was back-ordered, Starcycle should be able to tell you if this is still the case. Remember to wipe down the entire header with alcohol or thinners on your new pipe after the install as the first time it gets hot, any oily fingerprints get burned in and stain.
  15. If you figure out what you want, call the TT store and they will beat the price by 10%. Note: Some of the part numbers (DR-ZS & SM) on the Starcycle site are incorrect, Pipecity has the correct numbers listed. Muzzy still doesn't have these pipes listed on there own site, but they do exist.