teambft

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About teambft

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Interests
    Riding, skiing, mountain biking, kids
  1. Thanks again Krannie. Well I put that NCVS in (clip 3) and just for extra measure put a new o ring on fuel screw. Hanging idle is gone. But I'm still at a 48 pilot and about 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 turns. Definitely notice differences when going past 2 1/2 or below 2 - sweet spot is right about 2 3/8. Runs good, starts good. Not sure what else could be that is requiring a 48 pilot at 2 1/4 plus turns.
  2. Will this affect how my bike runs? Just noticed broken vent tee.
  3. Bought the bike recently and began rejetting, air box mod top and sides, etc. and currently running a new 48 pilot, sea level to 1000ft, JD jet red needle 4th clip down and 2.5 or so turns out. High idle at 1/8th throttle. Also having to tune around a general high, sticky idle. Done the following: Ultrasonic cleaned the carb and double checked elbow cavity above pilot circuit Valve check / adjusted decompressor/ensured head cover tight JD Jet kit #50 leak jet Updated to 2008 accelerator pump TPS set Float adjusted Updated 08 Honda Accellerator pump kit New plug Pink wire mod Air box mod Fresh gas R&D Flex jet which came with o ring New valve seal and new slide and plate in correctly with hole down New petcock Replaced hot start with Honda choke plunger Sprayed carb cleaner all around boots and carb Everything tightened, including header pipe and silencer connector New starter Starts decently - better starting cold, a little slower when warm, pulls fairly hard and strong, wheel comes up pretty easy, no bog ........... seems lean, grabs a high idle once in a while and seems more prone at about 1/8th throttle. Seems I need to have the idle screw turned in too much also. And again 48 pilot and 2.5 turns out. Dying to resolve this ...... Been trying for a while now. THANKS FOR ANY ADVICE!!!!
  4. Looks like I was reading the calcs in the service manual incorrectly...... Should be 4.40k ohms X .13=.572 and 4.40 k ohms X .15 = .660. So at idle between 572 and 660 ohms. I set it with carb off the bike but when carb is back on, will find idle position and retest.
  5. Thanks. How does testing it on the bike versus off the bike differ? If I turn the throttle wheel with carb off bike and get min and max resistance measures?
  6. Took my TPS off the carb. Trying to test it per service manual. Between blue and black wires I get 4.4k ohms, which is within spec. But between black and yellow, get less than 1k ohm. When turning the TPS slot all the way, goes to about 4K ohms max, when multimeter is on black / yellow wires. According to calcs in the service manual, I should get about 6k ohms in idle position. Am I testing it wrong? Possible it's a bad TPS? It's accurate to test it off the bike, correct? Thanks.
  7. Thank you sir. Also, if I am using the rubber o-ring from the JD Jet kit, do I still set the AP as youve noted? You're referring to the set screw for the AP?
  8. I found a couple tutorials for WR250. Says to first attach larger hook on spring to the throttle cam wheel, then install. Make sure slide is bottomed then I believe turn shaft to reattach the fixing screw slightly which raises slide a bit. Also says to use a .8mm drill bit to,raise slide slightly I believe to get AP screw set correctly......but I'm using the JD Jet kit rubber ring around AP screw. BUT......do you first "preload" spring, insert cam wheel to where it about rests on idle screw......thru first bearing and then just wiggle in to the TPS? Is there any preloading of the TPS? Or just insert to where the big spring is preloaded and the hole on shaft lines up for the slide arm and fixing screw hole? I know the TPS is also,spring loaded so curious how it gets properly aligned on shaft. Thanks.
  9. Krannie, Is this what you were referring to? You must loosen the idle speed knob so the threaded portion no longer contacts the throttle wheel. Then with the trottle shaft turned as far as it can to closed, the slide is set at the very bottom. Then the fixing sscrews are tightened. Next step is to set the AP timing with a 0.8mm drill bit in the carb throat, holding the slide up, the timing screw is set to barely have no gap (zero) Next, turn the idle speed knob to raise the slide to appx 3/16". Not critical, just plenty to get the bike to run. Fuel screw set to 1.75 turns from gently closed.
  10. With the big spring? And the blue plastic "cam" behind it. Throttle cables attach to it. Yeah, I removed that. Any instructions out there on calibrating it? I will also run some searches.
  11. I replaced the hot start with a Honda choke plunger. Also just checked.....had a 48 pilot. The spark plug isn't even light brown.....it's as if no fuel is going into cylinder. I did remove the slide but was unaware of "calibration". What does this entail? Thanks!
  12. Just picked this bike up. Ran when I got it but not well, had none of the mods. Here is what I've done thus far: JD Jet kit for my elevation 750ft Updated 08 Honda Accellerator pump,kit #50 leak jet Valve check, intakes were fine, exhausts needed about .1 less Adjusted decompressor lever Pink wire mod Air box mod Fresh gas Throttle seems a little sticky in last 1/4 or soon turn. When I had carb off I did check the slide valve. Also check throttle cables. Finally got it started and bike was running basically wide open throttle. Like a super lean condition. With throttle closed. Adjusted idle and mix screw. Helped some. Now can't get it started again, and looks like I killed my new Shorai. Can't get it to start kicking it either. One thing it was also doing when I turned it off it backfired just before turning off. Any thoughts?
  13. I've removed my hot start lever and cable (installing choke plunger instead) What clutch and brake perches/levers will fit? CRF450R? Same years? I think the X levers are same '05-14 Thanks!