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About shockdoc

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  1. Never seen one on that end but possibly once you take the clevis off since that would be the end the reb rod comes out... doc
  2. shockdoc

    Wont idle when cold, And pops/backfires

    Double check that the pilot jet isn't still plugged up...also make sure the fuel mixture screw is adjusted right and you didn't loose the small oring on it. doc
  3. shockdoc

    Free play rear linkage

    You can try an .008 or .010 feeler gauge to get the clip out too.... doc
  4. shockdoc

    05 crf450r aftermarket fork spring

    Did you replace the bushings too? If not most likely they are bad and causing stiction. Also make sure the R/S fork isn't bound up on the axle. doc
  5. shockdoc

    WP forks not rebounding to full extension

    The '08 fork cart rod seals are known for swelling and causing this problem which also makes them harsh. A newer model seal & seal head fixes the problem. doc
  6. shockdoc

    2013 CRF450R setup

    Don't know about anyone else but just about every 13 & 14 I've done has had sacked balanced springs in them. I usually install a little stiffer ones in them as that will make them feel plusher....riders love it doc
  7. shockdoc

    Rear shock spring

    Stay with straight rate...
  8. IMO it is pressure building up behind the piston band (in most cases). Drilling a cpl bleed holes work and also the new MX-Tech metal & teflon piston bands work awesome.... doc
  9. shockdoc

    KX 85 Rear shock

    That's not the first time I've seen that happen. Water & mud gets inside the clevis and will rust up & seize the adjuster screw. If you catch it before breaking you can take the clevis off the shaft & clean it out & lube up the adjuster. Once broke though, unfortunately you will have to replace the whole shaft assy. Or find another used or bad shock & rob the clevis off of it.... doc
  10. shockdoc

    03 yz250 Stock Forks

    Deff get rid of the 10wt. Did you replace the bushings too? If not then most times they are damaged when you "slam" the forks apart to get the seals and that will for sure cause problems. Also make sure that the R/S fork isn't bound up on the axle. If the headshake is while braking or coming into the corners the thick oil will cause packing & shaking. You may also need to lower the forks to take weight off the frt if being to soft is the cause of headshake. doc
  11. Spin the washer inside the nut (from the threaded) to where you can see the largest hole from the window on the other side of the nut. Note where the "D" shape is on the rod then stick a small scribe in the window to hold the spinning washer from moving. If you are careful you can then spin the nut on the shaft slowly and wait for it to barely touch the rod and then move the adjuster along at thee same time as the nut & usually it will lie up....this is how I always do it because its quicker for me BUT The way it's suppose to be done is to peel back the lip that holds the spinning washer in (on the closed side of the nut) and then take a large punch (just slightly smaller than the shaft hole (12mm) and then tap the guts out through the top of the nut. Once thats done you can then put the nut on & tighten it to spec. Then put the washer back in the right position and tap the peening lip back down to hold everything in. Hope I explained it well enough to understand....lol doc
  12. shockdoc

    2012 KTM SX 150 Suspension work

    The MV does have to much float. Bring it up close too .3 and use 18-20psi in the bladder along with 350cc's of oil to start. Tune from here.... doc
  13. You say you have 102-104mm's of rider sag so do you know what your static sag is? I'm thinking at 182 pds without gear then you prob don't have enough static. 35mm's would be good. IMO you prob want to go to a 5.8/.50 spring combo. The MX-Tech piston band is also a good idea. doc
  14. I've also done this many times on certain shocks and had no issues. Maybe we should ask tye1138 for his opinion.... doc
  15. shockdoc

    CRF250X head shake cure

    Ok glad you got it dialed in but I am a bit curious. You said it was headshaking at speed which if you would of raised the forks up a bit or like Dwight said reduce comp damping then that would help. Here you say that you increased comp damping (opposite of what Dwight said to do) and lowered the back a little which helped.These 2 things should of made it worse so I'm thinking that your headshaking was actually as you were coming off the gas or slowing down which by increasing the comp & lowering your sag made it better?? Either way glad it's better..... doc