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About moby1800

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  1. They're pretty much junk. You can buy a replacement at Checker Auto for about $6.
  2. Man, these bikes look like they never leave the pavement. I think I'd better go do some polishing...I feel guilty.
  3. Found the gremlin. It was a tiny (1/16th +-) of the insulation of the hot lead running into the rear brake light switch on the right handgrip had worn against the metal causing the frame to conduct the voltage to the egine (for ground) via the clutch cable, heating it to the point of melting it's shielding.
  4. I remember when you got this bike FatChance and the mods you made (posted on ADVRIDER.COM) It's looking good and I'm glad to see it's being used as it should be and not sitting in a garage being pretty.
  5. I run the 5.1 and the 3.25 with no problems.
  6. By "A bad earth" do you mean a lot of dirt between the frame and the engine?
  7. The cable is not conducting when the ignition is in the "on" position - only when the engine is running. The cable attaches outside of the cases and I traced all along the cable route do not find a short there. Is there anthing with a lot of current running to it inside the clutch assembly? I thought the activator switch was at the lever. Guess it's going in the shop this week.
  8. All grounds are clean and tight at the frame and the battery and no voltage between the cable and negative terminal (am I checking that right?) so I'm really at a loss here.
  9. I replaced the clutch cable yesterday thinking there was a spot that had rubbed through some insulation and somehow got passed a fuse but that had no impact - still hot as a pistol.
  10. It melts the teflon and plastic shielding around the cable due to the heat of the metal inside. I'll check the grounds again but did that initially. I assume by starter motor cables, you mean the one from the battery to the starter motor?
  11. I have a 2003 DR650 that will heat up the clutch cable within minutes of starting to the point of melting the shielding but runs fine otherwise (battery drains). Can't locate the point of current. Any ideas anyone?
  12. What I was describing (albeit poorly) was that after you've had a dismount or two, the levers can hang up on the plastic guard and require some field modifications. This bike looks like it has never been down - at least on that grip. If the lever was a little shorter, it wouldn't occur. Some people like to cut off the balls but I prefer them and would love to locate a shorter set.
  13. I've go the moose too and have had both levers catch on occasion. I may try and bend the ball in a little bit - it doesn't appear that shorter levers are available for the DR650. I know that metal used in the lever can snap pretty easily but maybe if I heat it up first......
  14. You might consider Kenda's. They are not as agressive in the dirt but do a good job as a dual sport tire. I've got 4K on a pair right now and the rear is about 75-80% gone. Not an expensive tire.