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About std2u

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  1. IIRC the plug is cast aluminum, so it would be tough to get it to weld or braze to a steel tool. Otherwise that would be an excellent solution, and likely easier than what I did.
  2. As people are saying, that's a common problem, even from the factory. I had great luck grooving it with a dremel-type tool and taking it off with a cold chisel. I grooved it on either side of the wrench-fitting so that I could alternate sides when hitting it with the chisel. I also angles the grooves for better bite, but I don't think that mattered.
  3. I recently fixed up my SM and got it running for the first time in a few years, and while I was working on it I thought I would fix other issues as well. One of the times my bike was stolen, way back when, someone gave it a paint job that was both well-done and ugly, and I decided to finally fully strip it off. Anyone who's tried to take good paint off of plastics known that the job sucks, so I thought I would share what I used to get it done; ethyl acetate. I took this panel with gold and black paint (ugh): And, while wearing appropriate safety nonsense, wiped it down with paper towels soaked with ethyl acetate to get this: It came out great and there was no significant damage to the plastics. Solvents should always be tested on a small section prior to flooding the surface with them, but ethyl acetate is pretty benign, and doesn't do much to most plastics. It used to be really easy to find ethyl acetate in nail polish remover or in some paint strippers (klean strip used to sell a MEK substitute that was ethyl acetate), but it's a little harder to get now. I was able to buy a bottle on ebay recently, and I think amazon sells it too. Ethyl acetate is an organic asolvent, and is not particularly good for you, but it is much less toxic than a number of other commonly available strippers (like carb-dip, brake cleaner, acetone, MEK etc.) and smells much more pleasant, to me at least, that most others. None the less, be careful when you use it, be well-ventilated, and keep it away from spark/fire sources.
  4. I'm planning to do basically the same thing. I was hoping to get switches the resemble the stockers to make it a bit more camouflaged. Jason
  5. It has a high enough amperage rating, so it should. It's not really the style I had in mind for my bike, however. Jason
  6. Thanks Noble, I was thinking it might be something like that, but I really wasn't sure. Jason
  7. I just want to make sure and get an adequate switch, and don't over current it and fry it. Jason
  8. I want to get rid of the ignition cylinder on my SM, and just use a switch. What's the current in the running curcuit and light circuit? I'm sure the info is in the archives, but I'm having trouble finding it. Jason
  9. Jeff is probably right, and his post is excellent for helping you get thru that mire, but I would like to add something. After my bike got stolen and returned (for the second time), and i replaced the ignition switch yet again, I had it re-keyed. The locksmith was a bit clumsy when disassembling it, and now it doesn't work consistently. Be careful when prying the plastic barrel over the tabs, if you wallow it out too much it may not work well when you get it all back together.
  10. I was able to take it apart, clean it, and get it working again. One of the contacts was pretty heavily pitted, so I expect the lifetime of the switch has been significantly reduced, but I doubt that Suzuki will do anything about it, and in any case I'm going to wait until it fails before I worry about it. I coated it pretty heavily with some dielectric grease, and it worked like a charm up until the snow storm. The snow finally all melted off my bike yesterday, so I'll be able to ride again this week, and see if it still works. Thanks again, Jeff! Jason
  11. Something that might be clever would be to hide a rocker switch somewhere, perhaps under the tank, that would start it, so that you don't need any sort of "key". For a little bit of extra added protection you could split the wires up near the head tube, and run two sets down either side, and hide two switches in different places. That way if someone found one it wouldn't do anything by itself, and they wouldn't be able to chase the wire back 6" to the other switch. You would, of course, need to lock the bike down to something for security when not in use. Jason
  12. That would be a great place to hide it, but you don't really have to hide it at all. Anyone who sees that and knows what it is and what to do with it will probably be able to steal your ride whether or not they have to spend a few moments looking for the end of the wires. Besides, you need to pull it off every time you stop, just like it was a key, or the lights will stay on and drain the battery.
  13. I don't have one sitting in front of me, but if I remember correctly two of the wires come together, so it is a four wire set up, just with an extra connection inside the ignition switch. If I remember: red-orange will close the starter circuit, and brown-green is for the running lights. Here is a link to the image of my "master key". Hopefully it will work this time. Jason
  14. It's too bad you had to break it, next time cut the wires and cross them to start it. Then you can repair it when you get home if you feel like it. I use mine as my main transportation, so when the main lock was broken, I replaced all 3 locks with OEM. It's so easy to jump the wires, and steal the bike that way, that it is hardly protection in the first place. If you really want to protect it, you need to lock it down anyway, so you could shortcut it like I did for a while. Take the Molex-type connector from the ignitionand cut and solder the wires together. One closes the ignition circuit, and one the light circuit. Like this: Now you can remove the whole thing when you're not riding, and key or no key someone will have to go to at least as much effort to hotwire it as with the ignition. I cut off the locking tab, but I recommend against it now. It got really easy to put the connector in and take it out after a while, and I would have liked the extra security of the tab.
  15. Just took the switch apart, and one of the contacts was badly corroded, damn. Oh well. I live in Bethesda, and only ride in the city, mostly for transportation. I got some Distanzias this fall though, so I may look for some fire roads in the spring. Jason