irondawg

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About irondawg

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Texas
  1. I've got a long way to go. Small end of rod was out of spec so sent crank off for rebuild. Figured I'd to a complete rebuild since the motor is apart. I think I'm the 3rd owner and the PO did a lousy job with this bike. It was a reck. So far I've rebuilt the forks, all new linkage, bearings and seals for the rear. I may start a rebuild thread once I figure out what I'm going to build...
  2. That did the trick!! Thanks for the help.
  3. Greetings!! I'm rebuilding my engine and have torn it all the way down to just parts. I'm getting ready to paint the head and cannot seem to get the manual decomp lever out. I've been pulling on that sucker pretty hard. Even tried vice grips to it and it won't budge. Is there an angle that it needs to be in? Looking at the parts fiche, it seems to be just pushed in with a oil seal. Am I missing something? Oh...this is a 1989 XR600R if it matters. Thanks in advance!! Irondawg
  4. I've got the dreaded hanging idle that many also here have with the Eldebrock carb. After checking the cables, and carb for gumming and finding nothing I took the pumper mechanism out and noticed that it is hanging badly and not letting the slide down completely unless I blip the throttle. What I mean is when I push the mechanism down, it stays down and take a bit of force to pull back up...not much but more than I think it should. I tried lubing the blue o-ring with no luck. My next thought was that the o-ring has swollen. What I'd like to know is how much friction should the pumper mechanism have. Should it slide up and down with little effort? Should it pop back up using only the little spring in the mechanism.
  5. What about riding desert? I'm constantly in top gear for many, many miles in west Texas...we're talking 200 in a day. I thought this bike was designed for that? They race and win WR's in Dakar. I'm not sure of all the mods and am wondering if they change the tranny or oiling system. Not to start another oil thread...but is there a recommended oil for running desert/high miles? How long between changes? I've gone 750 miles before changing the oil...just because that was the earliest I could. Just for the record...I've used Castrol Act-evo for the life of the bike. I don't trust Rotella. But I'm thinking about trying Valvoline VR...that's been recommended to me by a few people.
  6. For the petcock screws, apply some Yamabond 4 gasket sealer. Not only will it seal the petcock/tank it acts as a thread locker.
  7. To answer questions: Weight: Lots...figure about 20+lbs. plus I'd strap my jacket and extra gear when it got hot. The temps went from 18 to 80F. The trick is to set the Wolfman half on the seat and half on the rack. Load heavy stuff on bottom. Mounting: Like I said, I replaced the subframe bolts with grade 8 bolts that went all the way thru the rack and put nuts on...basically belt and suspenders setup. Another little extra was a put a bolt with 1 inch spacer on the upper chain wheel and used that to secure the straps that go forward. The straps are supposed to loop thru the passenger pegs...since there's none on the WR I looped the strap around the subframe and the bolt. Suspension: Yep. Had to add another ~10mm on the rear collar. Bike felt harsher but did not pogo. I've also got a Wolfman Carry-All on the front numberplate. This thing rocks!! Easy to get too stuff and you barely know it's there. Far better than a tank bag since it's out of the way. One of these days I've gotta take pics of my mods for all to see. My bike is setup for what my riding buds call extreme dualsporting. I call it more like self sufficient rally riding. Spidennis: thanks for the compliment!!
  8. I've got a PMB on my bike. Have done many self supporting d/s rides thru Big Bend/West Texas rides and a 9 day ride down in Mexico thru Copper Canyon to the sea. The rack is very good. I don't recommend using loctite on the seat bolts but it's definitely needed on the sub-frame bolts. I went a step further and swapped out the sub-frame bolts with grade 8 bolts that went all the way thru the frame and rack and then added an extra nut so the bolt doesn't loosen and fall out. It will happen. I strapped a small Wolfman Expedition bag and a sleeping bag to the bike. Didn't have one problem. Here's a pict of my bike somewhere south of Copper Canon...
  9. If your's broke at the bottom hole, that's where mine broke about half way across the hole. I wasn't sure you could weld this piece, but if you did yours, I'm all up for welding mine. Thanks for the info Indy!!
  10. I just got back from 4 days of riding west Texas where I got a little hot into a downhill right hander. I tried using the dirt banking as a berm but the sand was really soft and I ended up hitting a basketball size rock just buried in the dirt. Needless to say, after sky-ground sky-ground sky and picking the cactus thorns out of my hands and legs I took inventory on the bike. Bent front rim, bent bash plate (saved the cases!!) and a broken carrier bracket for the brake caliper. I was looking at parts breakdown and can't find a part number. Do I need to get the entire caliper? The caliper is is good shape.
  11. For what it's worth, I've got a 7/8ths set that I took off my old DR350. I'm no longer using them on the WR...so if anyone needs a pair, send an email.
  12. Nice vid. Skip the bead buddy and use a pair of vise-grips with a shop rag. And yeah...that tire was either left in the hot sun all day or was REALLY soft. And another observation...don't most rear wheels have two bead lock? My '04 WR450 does.
  13. One question...does the ignition swith also have an acc input for switching dc voltage? BTW, nice setup!!
  14. Very nice penny tech!! What key is that you are using? I'm looking for a keyed switch that will turn ignition on and have switched DC.
  15. Does anyone know if the GYT-R tank for the YZ will fit a WR? I think it's an Acerbis but not sure.