zig06

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zig06 last won the day on June 16 2007

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  1. How about loaning your Prius to a family member in exchange for a real vehicle that could tow or haul something? (nothing personal) Your other option is to forget the WR250 and buy a eBike, some mid-drive model ~ matter of fact Yamaha is getting into that market this spring. Your Prius should be able to handle that. Yamaha eBikes: https://www.yamahabicycles.com/
  2. Go to your local coin operated car wash, power wash it down then stop by your local Lowes / Home Depot or Hardware store and buy some "Rustoleum farm and implement paint" there's lots of colors to choose from and a couple of brushes. Park it over a tarp, your lawn or gravel spot and have at it. Even an average paint job will look pretty good ~ you'll be surprised.
  3. Seriously try to find a vehicle that has a Class 3 hitch and then get one of these, you'll never have to pull the chain or change the rear tire. Or get a small trailer, a class 1 hitch is strong enough to pull a single axle trailer with just a motorcycle sitting on it.
  4. Well said and totally true! When I use to race cars we ran distilled water and a "little bit" of an anti corrosion additive, nothing else. We also never ran a radiator fan or a thermostat, and it worked great. A dirty little secret about Engine Ice and most other "waterless coolants" like it are that while they do have a higher boil point they also do not transfer heat as well as regular automotive coolants and way less than distilled water. The glory days:
  5. "YES" this is totally true, there's nothing special or unusual about motorcycle coolant. I personally use what ever comes in the bike when I purchase a new bike, but when I rebuild them then the coolant needs to be drained, at that point I use Dexron engine coolant from my local auto parts store (NAPA). In Michigan most of the trails are fast enough or not technical enough to worry about boiling over, unless your going really slow on a 4t. Only then would I consider buying something like Engine Ice for the higher boil over protection, but at that point you should also consider installing a radiator fan. As for freeze protection, any commercially available coolant fluid should be good enough to protect you through any Michigan winter as long as it's in good condition. That's also why you never add pure water to the radiator, unless it's an emergency, it reduces it's effectiveness.
  6. Please re-read my post, I was not limiting my comment to just KTM's.
  7. Well, it's a mechanical thing and every mechanical thing will has issues due to production supply & assembly, some small some will stop the game. With that in mind I like to remind people that these are "race bikes", thoroughbreds of the motorcycle world if you will. They were designed to be light, fast and last only long enough to finish a race, the same goes for any CR, YZ, KX, RM and any other bike built to race against them. If you want a super reliable bike then you need to look at a model that was not designed to race.
  8. Don't bother, just bring it to your dealership and let them fix it. A heat cycle breaks in metal to metal parts, the gaskets are what they are and no number of heat cycles will change that. One other thing, in this thread please post how your dealer treated you when you drop the bike off, how they fixed it and if it was a permanent fix. A lot to ask, but riders will be asking you for years to come if you don't post it.
  9. "IF" the RMX's kick stand is steel (and I'm not sure) then a PMB designed for the RMZ450 should bolt right on and be lighter. https://fastwayperformance.com/kickstands/kickstand-products/suzuki-kickstand-158.html Very true, and the "picking it up" weight is the most expensive one to fix because you need to find real weight savings. Personally I suggest checking out a RMZ-450, decide if that's light enough then you would have a shot. But an RMX will never be lighter than a RMZ, and if the RMZ is too heavy then your going to want to look elsewhere. Another possibility would be to wait for the '19 RMZ450, it's a given that it's going to have electric start...
  10. Sadly the only way that I can think of to fix it is to split the cases and remove the crank. From there I can think of a few options. 1. Rebuild the crank with a new right side half. 2. Bring it to an electric motor repair shop. They have experience in welding grooved shafts and then machining them back down to size. 3. You could possibly find a used crank on eBay that isn't grooved, but you will have to have the crank rebuilt as there's no way of knowing how much time is on it.
  11. Good catch, the way the top ridge of the cylinder is eaten away has my concern. Without having it in my hand I'm not completely sure but I tend to think that it was running very lean, like it maybe spent a lot of time at wide open throttle with lean jetting. Not saying that that's what happen, I would need to look at the cylinder in person to be sure.
  12. Looked at the first picture closer, there's no way that an overbore is going to fix it, too close to the o-ring. It can still be fixed, price it out before you decide. The problem is that who ever fixes this is going to have to see the cylinder before they can tell you what it's going to cost to fix. At the same time, I would ask them what they think caused that to happen. I personally would guess that it's running lean or someone has been running a lot of regular pump gas, you should be running pump premium in an otherwise stock engine.
  13. Yes, what he said. You have 3 options: 1. Have Power Seal or Millennium fix the cylinder and replate it back to stock. 2. Over bore, hope that it'll be big enough to remove the damage without fixing. The idea here is that the extra cost of the over bore would be off-set by not having to fix the cylinder. 3. Have the cylinder sleeved. I personally wouldn't do it, overall you do get a better product with plating (longer wear and overall performance). The over bore and re-plate would be my first choice (#2), then #1 (fix and replate).
  14. Well, when a sleeve is installed the power valve needs to be completely removed, so bending something is possible when it's put back together but there's so many parts in there it's hard to say exactly what could be bent without actually taking it all apart.
  15. Good point with the DR200 recommendation, also the DRZ250 had electric start. For some reason it was never that popular but a friend owned one and it went pretty good plus it had a lower seat height. Not to dis any XR owner, but the DRZ250 was built to be a "modern" XR250.