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crfdoug

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About crfdoug

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  1. I just got a 98 DR350SE with 6000 miles on it. My front brake was a bit spongy, and I just changed the fluid which was obviously the first time it was ever changed since new. The brake is no longer spongy, but it doesn't seem to have anywhere near as much stopping power as I would expect. The rotor looks fine, and the pads have a lot of life yet, but I have no reason to believe they have ever been changed. So the question is: Should I change the pads, and if so, should I use the stock pads or are there better aftermarket pads for the bike. I'm pretty much a dry weather rider riding a 65/35 mix of road and dirt. Any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated
  2. OK, so after much review (too much) I have decided to go with the Pirelli MT21's on my 98 DR350SE. My question is which size tires to get. The rear tire comes in 110/80, 120/80 and 120/90. I am short, so even a slightly shorter tire height is a good thing, but I don't want to get the 110/80 and realize that my traction is not optimum. I believe all three sizes with fit the DR. The front tire comes in 80/90 and 90/90, and I don't have a clue what to do there. Any suggestions would be greatly apprciated!
  3. I plan to put a Dunlop Geomax 51 front tire on my KTM 250EXC, and wanted to know what people thought about going with either the 80/100 or 90/100 size? I am a back-of-the-pack intermediate rider. Any thoughts/experiences would be appreciated.
  4. I forgot to mention that I'm on the short side (5'6"), and was wondering how much the 18" wheel and the TT will raise the seat height, as well as quicken the handling?
  5. I just got a 1986 XR200R that is going to be my new project bike. I've done a lot of reading on TT about the available mods. Just a few questions - I'm running an 18" rear wheel (XR250) with an IRC radial trials tire (love em!). When I use that tire on my other enduro bikes, I typically gear it higher than when I use knobbies due to the increased traction. Having said that, anybody have any recommendations for gearing for that wheel and tire? Most of my riding is East coast single track/woods. I like the idea of putting a XR250 swingarm on the bike as well. All of your threads on that make sense. What do I need in additon to the parts that come with my XR200 other than the new swingarm? Does the stock brake rod fit? Also, will the longer swingarm lower the seat height noticeably? Thanks
  6. The reason that I am making such a strong point is that I am a firm believer in how much of a difference that a radial trials makes in enduro-style riding. It bothers me when people promote non-radial trials tires, and specifically the MT43, because riders will purchase those tires and not be as big an advocate as they would otherwise be. The end goal that I hope to see is the several of the major tire manufacturers will develop a hybrid tire of a knobbie-like design but with the radial construction that would be seriously effective for enduro riding. This will only come about by the demand of the consumer. The MT43 and it's ilke will not generate that demand.
  7. Juliend, NICE justification for your waste of money. Your argument shows your ignorance.
  8. Anyone who buys/uses a Pirelli MT43 is WASTING their money as it is NOT a radial design tire, and as such, will NOT provide anywhere near the traction as a radial trials tire does! It's all in the radial design folks!
  9. Anyone who buys/uses a Pirelli MT43 is WASTING their money as it is NOT a radial design tire, and as such, will NOT provide anywhere near the traction as a radial trials tire does! It's all in the radial design folks!
  10. Anyone who buys/uses a Pirelli MT43 is WASTING their money as it is NOT a radial design tire, and as such, will NOT provide anywhere near the traction as a radial trials tire does! It's all in the radial design folks!
  11. I wasn't sure when I posted my last post, but I checked on that Pirelli MT43, and as I thought it is a bias ply tire, not a RADIAL tire. The laws of physics rule as there is no way it can be as good as a radial design trials tire - otherwise known as a waste of money!
  12. As many times that this question comes up, it never ceases to amaze me how clueless some of the responders are. What you want is either an IRC RADIAL trials tire or a Dunlop 803 RADIAL trials tire. The Michelin is too expensive, and not worth the money for enduro use. Key word is"RADIAL" - if it is not a radial design tire you have just wasted every cent you paid for that tire!!! The Dunlop has a stiffer sidewall, and the jury is out on how well that will compare with the IRC as the Dunlop has not been used that long in the enduro world. Either should work fine - I use the IRC and am very pleased! You should use tube-type tires, not tubeless unless your rims are set-up for tubeless tires which I am sure they are not. People will give you a line about how the tubeless tires have a stiffer sidewall, and they do by a very small amount. Problem is that the tubeless tire has a tendency to ride over the rim made for a tube tire, and if you are like most folks, you don't want to get stuck way far away from your ride. You MUST use TWO rimlocks!!! The best and arguably only tube to use is the Moose Ultra Heavy Duty tube. It is the thickest ultra tube that I know of and helps dramatically with pinch flats. Run between 8-10 lbs. and you'll be fine. All-in-all well worth the money. I wouldn't ride a bike without a rear radial trials tire anymore as the confidence that I get from my trials tire you just can't get with a knobby with the exception of really deep mud and sand. Then again, I don't like riding in really deep mud, so it's a moot point. Enjoy!!!
  13. I can't help but laughing my butt off at all these replies about the CRF150R being WAY TOO SMALL for a guy that is 5'7". The seat height on a 150R is 34.1" which is fine for a person that is at least 5'10" or taller depending on their torso and arm length. I mostly ride vintage bikes where the seat height is typically 32-35" which is great especially in the woods. There is a lot to be said for being able to touch flat foot especially in those tight woods situations where you know you are going down if you can't touch. Also, cornering a bike with a lower center of gravity is a blast. I'm 5'6" and the CRF150R is definitely on my short list (bad pun) of bike to buy in the near future.
  14. I just put an IRC (tube-type) radial rear trials tire on an older enduro bike with 8" suspension front and back. I used the MSR Ultra Heavy Duty tube and have two rimlocks. I went with 12lbs of pressure as the bike weighs 250 wet and I weigh 250 with gear. The rearend felt a bit squishy, and the tire would feel like it seriously compressed on any hole or dips (no jumps) that I hit at speed. The question is what air pressure should I go to before I lose the advantage of a radial tire? I never had problems with my 756's with 12lbs. I wonder whether 14-16lbs for a 250lb person would be the same as 10-12lbs for a 150-175lb person. Any thoughts?
  15. Supercross

    OK, so I'm going retro, but back in the day, factory riders were required to race all three disciplies which were MX, Trials and Enduro as in the real enduros. One of the best then, and still damn fast was Mick Andrews who was a 2 time world trials champ in the 70's. Two years ago, he finshed 2nd between Jim Pomeroy and Brad Lackey in MX at Vintage Days at Mid-Ohio. Poor Jim has passed on, but let me tell you, he was scary fast in his early 50's before he died. I recently asked Mick who he thought was the best ever. Who he said was exactly who Pomeroy said when Jim was aked that question in an interview. The best all around rider ever in Andrews and Pomeroys opinion was Joel Robert who was a 6 time world MX champion. They said that he had the most natural talent they had ever seen. Honorable mention of course would go to "The Man" Roger DeCoster who was 5 time world MX champ and a Belgian Trials champ. Don't forget he is also the current mentor to Ricky.