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the1wizard

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About the1wizard

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  1. I have a 2002 DR650 that I have lowered just like yours, raised the fork tubes and move the shock bolt to the other hole. You won't notice much, if any difference in your ride by moving the tubes. Get the pinch bolts tight and keep an eye on them. Try different amounts of "drop", it only takes a few minutes to readjust. Good luck
  2. I took my original DR650 seat that was in fine condition to a local upholstery shop. They cut approx. 2" down from the top of the stock foam, then added 1.5" inches of SOFTER foam glued back on with a slightly wider profile at top. Maybe an inch on each side. Then reused my old stock cover. So the seat feels less like a hard narrow 2X4, but more like a softer 2X6. The wider at top edge foam was rounded more than the stock. The shop says they do this a lot, the dual sport bikes have narrow, hard foam and this cap works. So it is now wider, softer, rounder, and lower in the stock cover. I think they charged $60 about 5 years ago. It is still working fine, I am very happy with it.
  3. You are almost there. You should make sure the part of the bead that's already on the rim is in the drop center. That is the center, lowest part of the rim. And use way more lube. Take small "bites" (increments) as you help the tire over the rim edge. Use a rag or plastic oil bottle cut up to protect the rim. Look online for how to change tires videos, there are lots. Hang in there, don't tear up the tire bead or scratch the rim too bad. Did I mention don't snake bite the tube? Don't pinch the tube between the tire or the irons. Use more lube, diluted dish soap works ok. You'll get it. Good luck!
  4. Works fine on my DR650. Helped me get the seat closer to the ground.
  5. My slide was plastic, the modifications worked great! More responsive. It isn't brain surgery, if the hole isn't perfect the slide and carb will still work better than stock. Enjoy the increased throttle control.
  6. Stock Suzuki GSXR CAN IDENTIFICATION. I looked for a while before I got my gsxr can from EBay. There are usually a few for sale on EBay and Craiglist. Getting the right one can be daunting, partly caused by POs swapping mufflers, modifying them, and listing them by the wrong year. My goal was to get the smallest, lightest factory Suzuki can I could. This info does not necessarily hold true for aftermarket mufflers. I hope this info will help others. Please add to this thread and feel free to correct the unintended errors I may have made. Some of this info came from Kientech and threads by mx rob and bbushong. Thanks for all the work they've done. The most wanted seems to be the 01-02 GSXR 1000cc with the 4 stud inlet and 3 screw end plate stamped Titanium. They weigh under 5 lbs. Their physical size are in inches about: the round main body not counting end plates 17.5" Diameter about 4.75". The 4 studs are about .75" long at the inlet hole, the od of the gasket bore is about 2.5", the hole into the can about 2". The outlet cap sticks out of the can about 2" at a slight angle. On the side, after Suzuki, is a number embossed in between 2 xs reading x40F0x . I believe there are other figures for this number that are the correct can. The 01-03 GSXR 600cc and 750cc use a can the same physical size and measurements as the 1000, weighing under 7 lbs. The outlet cap is blank. The can is embossed x35FOx and that they meet EPA noise requirements for SUZ7GRO750 SUZ4GRO600. Again, I think there are other figures that may be on this same size can. Please update the numbers, sizes, and years I missed by mistake. Have fun!! Good luck.
  7. One reason for the 600 mile check is prevent anything that could do terrible damage. Even if nearly all bikes don't need adjustments at 600 miles, the damage caused by tight valves, and other things like loose fasteners, leaks, misalignments, etc could be expensive and dangerous. The check shouldn't be just an oil change and a talk with the service rep. Lots of parts are wearing in, faster now than later. An extensive check by a good mechanic could stop a lot of problems later. And it is good to have any problem documented early, even if it is minor. It is hard to go back and say "It did that since it was new, but I didn't mention it at the checkup." Have fun with the new bike. They just get better.
  8. If you don't shut off the petcock you could leak fuel into the engine through the carb if the float needle leaks. It won't leak much if you leave it on for a while, I have seen them leak enough over night to make the bike very hard to start. Or even fill the crankcase with fuel. Just get in a habit of turning off the petcock when the engine isn't running. Paint doesn't stick well on plastic tanks, neither does most graphics. There are some graphics with little holes in them to let the fuel vapors escape, you can research them here. Good luck.
  9. I used a slightly larger fuel proof oring to seal my IMS petcock and it works fine. You should shut off the petcock when the engine isn't running. You will also need to plug the stock petcock vacuum line with something also fuel proof. Good luck.
  10. I like the Dirt-Bagz Scout for the saddlebags, and a stock Suzuki rear rack. I don't put much on the rear rack so I can get my leg over it.Have fun.
  11. If you will go to the search on the top of this page and type in lower dr650 go you will see lots of threads on lowering the dr with tons of good info. The sticky dr faq at the first of this forum has where to get even more good info, including manuals. Good luck!
  12. Nice job Alan, thanks for the pictures.
  13. Stock Suzuki GSXR CAN IDENTIFICATION. I looked for a while before I got my gsxr can from EBay. There are usually a few for sale on EBay and Craiglist. Getting the right one can be daunting, partly caused by POs swapping mufflers, modifying them, and listing them by the wrong year. My goal was to get the smallest, lightest factory Suzuki can I could. This info does not necessarily hold true for aftermarket mufflers. I hope this info will help others. Please add to this thread and feel free to correct the unintended errors I may have made. Some of this info came from Kientech and threads by mx rob and bbushong. Thanks for all the work they've done. The most wanted seems to be the 01-02 GSXR 1000cc with the 4 stud inlet and 3 screw end plate stamped Titanium. They weigh under 5 lbs. Their physical size are in inches about: the round main body not counting end plates 17.5" Diameter about 4.75". The 4 studs are about .75" long at the inlet hole, the od of the gasket bore is about 2.5", the hole into the can about 2". The outlet cap sticks out of the can about 2" at a slight angle. On the side, after Suzuki, is a number embossed in between 2 xs reading x40F0x . I believe there are other figures for this number that are the correct can. The 01-03 GSXR 600cc and 750cc use a can the same physical size and measurements as the 1000, weighing under 7 lbs. The outlet cap is blank. The can is embossed x35FOx and that they meet EPA noise requirements for SUZ7GRO750 SUZ4GRO600. Again, I think there are other figures that may be on this same size can. Please update the numbers, sizes, and years I missed by mistake. Have fun!! Good luck.
  14. Go to the very first item in this forum, the DR650 FAQs and look at chain adjustments and removal of upper chain roller. With the chain adjusted correctly, not too loose, the upper roller removed and the lower replaced with a bearing roller, the chain noise is greatly reduced. Good luck.
  15. Do you mean the dr400sm wheels? What is your goal?