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About randallz

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  1. I think many people chuck these in the trash as they don't always have good fitment with aftermarket pads. Try and use them if you can but if I'm remembering things correctly, they may not always work. That said, whether or not you'll benefit from them really depends on how hard you ride the brakes. If you're more of a beginner I don't think you would heat them up as much... but if you ride them all the time you'll want to do anything you can to stop your fluid from boiling.
  2. I have a 2013 YZ250 and just did an update. Last year I used the UFO update kit but liked the look of the 2015+ better so I switched. I was going to get the Polisport restyle kit with airbox from Rocky Mountain but they kept pushing off the availability date so I instead purchased a 2015+ polisport plastic kit and a Yamaha factory airbox. Everything bolted right up with the exception of the front fender. I used my old fender as a guide and drilled new holes to match the mounts on the lower triple clamp. I would've saved $45 and drilling holes if I had been patient enough to wait until March for plastics but I plan to race/ride before then. I'm making my bike look like a 1993 too... just for fun.
  3. Michigan

    Rode Gladwin last night (4/21) and it was indeed freshly groomed. Expect water in spots that usually have it (the road section on South loop and one particular low spot in the North loop). Didn't see any downed trees, trail was clear and very easy to ride. Get out there this weekend if you don't enjoy the whoops as much as I do! It should be back to rough condition by Sunday I would guess as it doesn't take long in the sand.
  4. Just throwing this out there - this bike is very difficult to start in the cold. I've had issues where I couldn't get it to fire at all below 30F. Next time you have an issue try putting the bike in a heated environment. You have options for fixing this in the FI - you need the diagnostic tool to adjust idle mixture. Cannot be done with power tuner. Get out and ride! -RZ
  5. Michigan

    Rode Ambrose to St. Helen and back on Sunday. Everything from super dusty to snow. Trail was 95% clear, had some downed trees and a few puddles to ride through. Only one spot had snow to ride through. I would think the trail is all clear now. Riding Gladwin tonight after work. Heard it was recently groomed. I'll report tomorrow if I remember to sign in.
  6. Michigan

    Was clear last weekend, minimal water. It should drain quick once this crap melts...
  7. Michigan

    Around 4" in Bay city/Saginaw. Melting fast. Supposedly more the further north you go, someone else will have to chime in.
  8. Michigan

    Rode Ogemaw today. Snow/ice in places but otherwise rideable.
  9. Michigan

    Pretty sure Gladwin will always be whooped out. Usually comes back a day or two after grooming. I would say no ice or major trail blockage is likely the excellent to expect.
  10. Michigan

    A buddy rode Gladwin today - still frozen for the most part. I'm guessing it will be good soon. I'll be up there not this weekend but next - I'll send an update if nobody else has.
  11. Michigan

    There's a Facebook page. Look for Michigan MX motorcycles for sale on Facebook. Was fairly popular at one point.
    Product works great, highly recommend it. Definitely saves the argument if you've ever had a significant other try and learn how to read a measuring tape... Only downside: All of my buddies ask to use it as nobody wants to go through the effort to have somebody else measure for them. Buy it!
  12. I thought AOS and SSS were the same forks... Anybody know how they're powering a light?? I think that's been the biggest issue for that bike in the past. You could always bolt a light on, but getting the electrical side ready was the issue.
  13. NO. That would be no better than what you have. Buy an OEM cable. Cheaper than this auction. If you want a lever look up MSR stuff.
  14. Disconnect the cable from the lever and hold it vertically. Spray your lube of choice so it enters the casing and runs down the twisted metal strands of the actual cable. There is a cable lubing attachment you can purchase that makes this more efficient. Another thing to do is take the lever off of the perch and look for wear. You'll see where the pivot is binding (usually looks black in color vs. silver aluminum) and where the lever is scraping against the perch. Sand these areas with 400-600 grit to smooth them out and put a light film of lube on them. I use grease and have had no issues - not a lot, just a thin film. This should help relieve some drag. This will take regular maintenance to make it work but it's worth it if you want the easiest lever pull. When you put the lever back in the perch, slowly tighten the pivot bolt and check for binding as you tighten by moving the lever. You can actually distort the perch and bind the lever by over tightening your pivot bolt. I know you didn't want to spend money but you likely need a new cable, and could use a lever and pivot. I use OEM cable and MSR lever w/3 positions for clutch cable. Put the cable in the easiest position of the lever (closest to handlebars) and you'll definitely notice a difference.