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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

SUPER50

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About SUPER50

  • Rank
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  • Location
    Illinois
  • Interests
    50cc mini
  1. I have watched the classic honda engine build dvd on their web site. It was quite helpfull with facts but I really didn't need it, but it was helpful. Still got it if you want to see it. Gives you confidence I think.
  2. I have a S.H. I got a couple of years back and I have never concerned myself with a cam selection. It came from 2 bro as a 106 with all the spritzes. What cam does the Takegawa 106 SH kit come with, and what are advantages to swapping them out.
  3. I have Protaper bars now for my fifty but would like them to hit my knees less. My idea was to try bars from ESD they are more like freestyle bike bars but might help. Has anyone used the stunt50 bars and do you like them? And will they fit my ADA triple clamp?
  4. I have a mig and can do anything you would like. I have an old stock bent front lever and can cut it and weld it to your spec. Tell me the distance you would like the lever to be from thottle and I will do it for you. PM me and we can work something out. Just pay for shipping sounds good to me since its for your son.
  5. Try Baja Designs or rewire yourself, diagram is in service manual, lose conectors if you dont have and directly solder joints. Try classifieds for people that upgraded to race ignition and don't need old set. Good Luck
  6. Ignition coil first then inner rotor then special clutch. All three will get that bottom end you desire. Ignition coil upgrade will get that snap in low RPM (no bog). After you get the inertia in flywheel spinning like you said "Buckets of power" it will be faster to get to powerful rpms like that from a stop. Basically you want the bike to be more responsive to throttle at low rpm but the motor has to get the flywheel going and spinning (4-strokes, less power strokes than 2). Inner roter will take stress off crank making it go, not bog with less additional weight to spin. Special clutch takes even more weight of that crank making it spin with a twitch of the wrist. I had your issue and after I did these mods I couldn't even relate to the difference each can make. But each one gets more expensive. That low end bog will be there even after you jet it by a pro. Start with a coil $50, happy but want more go $300 inner rotor next $1000 special clutch:eek: . Good luck
  7. Shift lever that folds is helpfull but I got one on mine and my shaft got bent so bad I had to use a hammer to push it out when I replaced it. It was from hits (dumps) to the shaft end not end of shifter that got mine. Not a big deal to fix but not nessesary if no leak. This shaft and the way it is oriented on the motor it is natural that it will get bent. Just use a hammer, you can get it out if it starts to leak.
  8. Changed my front to a 12 and it doesn't stick in ruts like the 10 did I think it's a great upgrade but I got some satisfaction out of doing it myself also. But on a beer budget I think the 10 is fine.
  9. Will this fit on a stroker crank? I have a SH 106 now. And what are the possible pitfalls. Anyone installed this on a non-stock crank. My guess is no, but can it be done?
  10. Will this headlight fit on stock 50 forks? What will it look like, does anyone have pics of this on their bike?
  11. Can you describe the damage better or the swamping, what broke or bent and what is a sleve?
  12. I have a manual also and it likes to jump a bit when I put it in gear with the clutch pulled in completely. Both my 5-speed does it and my 3-speeder did it too, even with different clutch orientation.
  13. The little window at the botom of the case has three holes to indicate level. Can someone tell me how to read this thing correctly because the instructions were not in English
  14. I bought it from 2bro and they have just the red ignition box they say same thing its shot. Can you crack open the bad one and tell me what you find maybe this could be a clue to its properties. Also I read in instructions from 2bro, Japans version is quite goofy, but nevertheless it warns of heat exposure and failure so I think its location is important. I neglected this warning to my misforture I guess because mine was close to the engine. Also I got a 1 ohm reading on stock coil what is it for other aftermarket and what should it be for the "Red Box"?
  15. I checked the IFW electrical connection from the red pick-up cirlce that is around the fly wheel to the red coil box and there is infinite resistance(open) on the ohm meter for the coil box and 111 ohms for the red circle side. Is my coil fryed like all indications point? Can anyone else measure their coil resistance at that connection or anyone have had same problem and troubleshooted? New coil $200, want to make sure its the coil. Can you use a kitaco coil with a takegawa system?