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      2019 Zooks!   07/17/2018

      Suzuki Introduces 2019 Motocross, Dual Sport, Off-Road and Youth Models


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About screechingdemon

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  1. Going from a 33mm to 36mm doesn't seem like to big of a job or much different then going from a 36 to 39 like everyone does on the DRZ400. Got the bike running with the carb over the weekend, ended up going with a 134 MJ and 22.5PJ. Needs a richer pilot jet and there is a little bit of bog on throttle off idle, but at least now the bike starts and runs, will have to do more tuning with the needle.
  2. Bigger is better right, 28 to 36mm? Not sure I follow going with a large main jet and larger pilot I was thinking the opposite going smaller. Thx
  3. My dad recently picked up a DR250S and he has had bogging issues with it and can't seem to get the carb set right. Got to looking at the carb and he asked me if I still had the old BSR carb off my DRZ400 which I do. We were thinking about putting this carb on the bike. The intake side as well as the airbox match up real well, will need different throttle cables, but looks like it would fit without to much trouble. What jetting settings would you start at on this or are we wasting our time trying to do this? Thx
  4. I marked the tire and rim to see if the tire is moving on the rim but I find that hard to believe especially on the front. I use no lubricant on the tube install other then what little powder may be on the new tube. I will monitor my pressures more closely and see what happens. In the meantime I have two new tubes coming for spares.
  5. What brand/model of tube do you recommend because I need to get some ordered to have on hand.
  6. I check them about once a month and ride it about every day. I will have to start checking more often and increase the pressure a little. Every time I check the tube it is perfect except for the torn valve stem. I always used the HD tubes off road but beginning to think they are not pliable enough for on road. I hav e a light weight used Dunlop in there now since that is all I had in the shop.
  7. I have a DRZ400S that I commute to work on and have had four flats in the last year, two on the front, two on the back and each time the tube has torn right at the valve stem. Needless to say I am getting tired of fixing flats, i could understand if I am offroad and going places where I shouldn't be but on the pavement, really? I am running a MT21 Perrelli on the front (previously had a 606 but didn't like the offroad ability or how it wore, it also had a flat once same MO) and a 606 Dunlop on the rear. I am running various heavy duty tubes with same result. Has anyone else had this issue? I have about a 3 mile trip to work on asphalt and ride in temps from 35 - 100F. All the offroading I have done and had no flats, always on the pavement. I typically run about 18-20 PSI on the front and 15-18 PSI rear. Any ideas?
  8. What kind of life should I expect out of my Scotts filter?
  9. I would definitely be checking the bike over after that to see if I had something going out. I have used a Scotts Stainless filter in my ride for over 15k miles and no issues so far. I have had it 7 or 8 years now.
  10. That is the way it is on this carb, went over this with Burned shortly after I put it on several years ago. 2nd clip on the needle with 2 1/4 turns on the fuel screw seemed to do the trick, much smoother now in the 4k-7k range. Since it was easy to swap out the main jet I went up to a 155 first with no change, which I figured there wouldn't be but thought I would try to avoid pulling the tank and seat. I then tried 4th clip on the needle which was worse so I then went to the 2nd clip.
  11. I would say if anything it runs slightly worse with the airbox lid off.
  12. It came off a 06 YFZ 450 quad. I will try the air box off and let you know what it does, it is odd how well it cleans up once you get about 7k.
  13. I have a 2001DRZ400S with 440 kit, RHC valves/springs, E Cams, E pipe, FCR39, and 3X3. I have had this setup for quite a while and liked how it ran. The bike runs good off idle and at top end, but between 3-7k there is a lot of stutter. I really haven't noticed it till today, when I was riding between 4-6k for an extended amount of time. Most of the time it is at idle or above 7k. Any suggestions on what I should change? I messed twith the fuel screw, but it didn't seem to make much difference I am leaning towards moving the needle at this point. It is cooler then it has been 60-70F versus 80-100F for the past several months. 1300' EMN needle 3rd clip MFJ 152 PFJ 40 OPEN MAJ OPEN PAJ 2 turns on fuel screw O ring mod
  14. That is nice to know it is normal, I was worried she was going down on me. I was planning on taking it out to explore some back roads in my area. Thanks for the quick feedback
  15. I was getting the DRZ around today and was checking tire pressure and had the engine idling and noticed that if I picked the bike up level and just went to the right just a little I could hear what almost sounded to me like what a wheel bearing sounds like after you remove all the grease or oil and spin it in your hand. Leaned the bike back to the left and it goes away, but I can repeat it with the bike idling. It kinda sounds like it is coming from the mid to lower part of the engine on the left side, but I didn't have anyone else around to lean the bike while I just listened. Any one else run into this?