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ghostbuster2

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About ghostbuster2

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  1. The reason multiple warning lamps illuminate is because of networking. 1 sensor may provide information to numerous modules potentially effecting operation of the system that module controls. For example a vehicle speed sensor in the ABS system could also provide information to the engine control module, transmission, trailer brake module, radio, wiper module, traction control, 4 wheel drive, supplemental restraint, body control and whatever else the manufacturer decides needs a speed input. Most modules will just set a code saying hey I am not getting information that I need. But emissions and safety are a big concern, hence the check engine light, ABS and traction control can all illuminate for 1 problem that does not seem to be related to all 3 systems. Pretty common on GM, Toyota and Honda products.
  2. Use GM part. A hose clamp around the metal steering tube at the bearing will also make the noise go away. Check your intermediate steering shaft for play also. It will make a similar noise. The intermediate shaft fails way more often than the lower steering column bearing assy.
  3. That is the harness connector that plugs onto a 7 pin trailer plug, vehicle side. . You will need to install a 7 pin vehicle side trailer plug to plug your 7/4 adapter into. Year, make,model of tow vehicle?
  4. I put a petcock off an XR 400 on mine. 2003 XRL, 1999 XR 400. Bolt right up, working for the past 13 years.
  5. How are those 3 inch longer cables working for you? Would you recommend a short cable for that bar/triple clamp set? Did you also get a longer choke cable too?
  6. A few small dots of super glue works well to hold the seals.
  7. I go 600 miles or 30 hours. At 250 hour tear down everything was well in spec. No measureable timing chain wear, piston and ring in spec etc. Even went 200 hours without having to adjust the valves. I'm now at 397 hours and with the TRX piston I don't have to add any oil between oil changes, only drops about 1/8 of an inch on the dipstick in 600 miles of desert and single track riding. I run Honda 10/40 semi-synthetic in the engine.
  8. Ditto what Onederer said. $250+ is the entry fee for a torque wrench worth using. And new aluminum crush washers every oil change. I use a Dorman brand crush washer for the crankcase and Honda OE for the frame. I've probably done 200+ oil changes on XR's torquing everything to spec and never had a problem. Last inventory 3 years ago I was at $53000, over $2000 in torque wrenches alone. And I am in no way a toolbox queen tool collector.
  9. In the sides of the block below the freeze plugs. One on each side.
  10. GM requires a silicate free (OAT) coolant. Recommend sticking with Dexcool and monitoring your waste.
  11. The most current software update limits boost to 28.6 psi. Anything over 30 psi can cause problems. All the head gasket problems I have seen are the result of a tuner, a failed EGR cooler or a stuck unison ring in the turbo. The latest software update will prevent damage from a stuck unison ring and monitors the oil temp/coolant temp difference crated by a failed oil cooler. The tuner is considered a customer created problem The o ring on the fuel pressure regulator can get hard and leak over time. The blue spring kit for the trucks has everything you need including the cover IIRC. You have to buy the parts individually if you have a van. And yes good batteries are a must have on all diesels. Good quality batteries replaced every 4 years are what I recommend. I also check the FICM voltage on every truck I service. No starts and drive ability problems usually start around 38 volts but anything less than 46.5 volts I recommend replacement.
  12. The fuel spring update is recommended. It raises supply side fuel pressure another 10-15 psi to ensure that under all operating conditions the injectors are not starved for fuel. The blue spring is the only one Ford sells now. If you get any other color than blue you are getting old stock.
  13. If you wants reliable 6.0l Ford buy 2005 or later. Make sure the PCM, TCM & FICM have the latest software and NO chip or tuner
  14. What is the date code on the tires? When was the last time you checked the air pressure and set it to the door placard? How much tread was on the tire? This wasn't caused by a mechanical issue with the truck.
  15. The drive belt is EPDM too. They may not have any cracks but the ribs will be worn. There is a tool to check this. The AC belt always seems to crack though. And check the main drive belt tensioner. If it cocks off sideways with no belt on it the tensioner is bad.