DRZFORTHISGUY

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About DRZFORTHISGUY

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    TT Member

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    madhousemum67@aol.com
  • MSN
    syershulver1@msn.com

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    Male
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    United Kingdom
  • Interests
    What: You mean theres other things to do than ride bikes ?
  1. Long time no see fellow Suzuki mounted freaks I AM still alive . Hope you fine folk have all been keeping well too.............. **After realising how much weight id put on in recent years i've been on a health kick.....getting up at 4.30am and running 10k / 6 miles before work, and doing the same again in the evening after work ; every single day for 4 months. Coupled with some cycling. Result is i've lost very nearly 60 lbs and am now at ideal weight again. So......the DRZ hasnt seen ANY action because of that and everything else in my life, but thats gonna change - starting with a little blat this morning.And that kinda reminded me that i came across some pics of my old Blue 'S' converted to SM a few weeks ago. So because you all LOVE DRZ piccies.....heres a few of the old and current ride..............'DRZ love' : OLD CURRENT Enjoy your Sunday all.................
  2. I had one of these on my last DRZ. Very handy for many reasons. And i'm pretty sure this is the first i've seen with a backlight. Has a few neat features too......... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361267805759?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Fab-up a little mount to fit it to the handlebar clamp, and BINGO. Tell me you don't want one already !
  3. Hi guys, Tonight i've just done my first ever valve clearance check tonight. All pretty painless.....and the results are as follows: Nearside front (Exhaust) - 9 thou / 0.23mm [suggested exhaust range 0.20 - 0.30mm] Offside front (Exhaust) - 7 thou / 0.175mm ********Both of these had a 31.8mm shim in. Offside rear (Inlet) - 5 thou / 0.13mm [suggested inlet range 0.10 - 0.20mm] Nearside rear (Inlet) - 6 thou / 0.15mm So as i read it - the inlet aren't really worth adjusting as they are basically right in the middle of the range. The Nearside exhaust is also in the middle of the range, so its just the offside front exhaust that has closed up. So i now need a smaller shim to increase the gap (?) .It currently has a 31.8mm shim: so if i buy a 3.1mm shim [They are available aftermarket in 0.05mm increments] , it will increase the clearance to 0.255mm [0.175mm current gap + 0.08mm gain from smaller shim = 0.255mm gap] - which will then be right in the middle of the range. Can someone confirm my thinking please ?
  4. This bike hasn't been used for 5 months. Its been in a garage, and has been started monthly, and ran up until the radiators were scalding hot / until the fan cut in. Last time i started it, i thought i heard a very slight, kinda high-pitched and hollow, metallic type noise from the top-end (?) when warm.....a noise i didnt think was there when it was cold. I didn't notice this last year when i last rode it - although of course every noise sounds louder in a small and enclosed garage. I thought maybe valve clearances, but firstly the bike is only on 4900 miles....most of those very careful ones i suspect.....and secondly i've been told i'm an idiot for even thinking they've gotten out of spec over winter, sitting in a garage and having only been started 4 or 5 times ! To be honest - outside today it didnt sound as bad - but it was and does definitely slightly "different" sounding from cold to warm. But anyway: Heres a video from stone cold, and one after 5 minutes when warmed-up: Walk-around / engine sound from cold: http://vid250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/sevenfourate/DRZ%20400%20SM%20-%202008%20K7/IMG_2254_zpsxokh0owb.mp4 Engine sound when warmed-up: http://vid250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/sevenfourate/DRZ%20400%20SM%20-%202008%20K7/IMG_2255_zps0gdvz5qf.mp4 You can barely notice the difference between the two. lol Any thoughts..............1/ Fit MCCT and check valve clearances for peace of mind, 2/ Keep an ear on it, or 3/ "A happy engine is a tappy engine": So move-on and ride it like i stole it ?
  5. http://www.thebikecollective.com/road-bike-party-2/?utm_source=Outbrain&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Outbrain
    Im yet another whos 'back' on a DRZ....This is the second time ive been DRZ-mounted; so its pretty obvious i love them ! Enough ooomph for what i do, sounds great, utterly reliable, fun-fun-fun, bullet-proof motor, not heavy maintainance reliant: and just an enjoyable way to get around. My first was an 'S' model i SuperMoto'd - my current ride is a 2008 true SM model - and one of the last ones Suzuki brought into the UK. And like every DRZ owner it seems - im currently modding it to bits :-)
  6. 0 comments

    Im yet another whos 'back' on a DRZ....This is the second time ive been DRZ-mounted; so its pretty obvious i love them ! Enough ooomph for what i do, sounds great, utterly reliable, fun-fun-fun, bullet-proof motor, not heavy maintainance reliant: and just an enjoyable way to get around. My first was an 'S' model i SuperMoto'd - my current ride is a 2008 true SM model - and one of the last ones Suzuki brought into the UK. And like every DRZ owner it seems - im currently modding it to bits :-)
  7. "Love,Speed and lost" Had me watching gripped to the screen and fascinated........... BRILLIANT !
  8. Are the brake pad pins the same size / length (Front and rear respectively) across all models and years ? I realise disc sizes are different from S to SM for example..........but are the calipers actually different: or is it just the mounting points that change to accomodate different discs ? Im in the UK: wanting to fit stainless brake pins, but cant find any listed as SM specific : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291022351027?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261539284499?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (Rear says same regarding model / year fitment etc) Thanks.
  9. I found all the settings for the clickers in my manual, and suggested settings for my weight on my new to me 2008 (K7) SM. But what i cant find is how far through the top yolks the forks should be. Anyone know the factory setting / what the Dizzer works best with, or give me some words of wisdom ?
  10. I've fancied another DRZ since i sold my 'S' which i converted to SM a few years ago. So why is it with all the fantastic makes / models out there im drawn in by another Dizzer ? What looks like a really nice SM has appeared locally. I'd really liked to have gone today - but its for sale at top price, and i dont want to appear to be too keen....... Anyway. Hopefully tomorrow i'll be the owner of this 2008 (K7) with just 4500 miles on the clock:
  11. Came across this on ebay.UK and thought id share with you XR freaks ! Get the tissues out - your gonna drool over that keyboard for sure: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/xr400r-honda-enduro-/231276669203?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item35d929e913
  12. Long story - i bought a 2009 EXC-F 250 a few months ago that wasnt all it was advertised to be. Ive battled through the previous owner bodges paycheck by paycheck; and now have a bike that i love riding, and is in tip-top condition from the tyres upward. Apart from the front brake........ (Brembo Master cyclinder and Caliper) To cut to the chase ive rebuilt the caliper with new pistons, seals pins, rubbers etc and a Stahlbus bleeder valve so even a 'braking idiot' like me has a chance to bleed it properly. http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/operation Ive got new pads fitted along with a quality new front disc. And of course the brake-line is braided as standard. The brake is completely leak free, the pistons retract lovely and smoothly and the brake doesnt bind on the disc at all. So all good so far. BUT: The feel is mushy at best. Ive run fresh quality fluid right through with the speedbleeder fully open using the master cylinder as a header-tank to flush out of all the old fluid, and ive then used the speedbleeder part for 10-15 minutes (Bearing in mind its a very small master cyclinder and moves very small amounts with each 'pump') and id be 99% sure the system doesnt have any air in it. However - the feel is still 'mushy' and not very positive. The first 15mm of brake-lever travel does virtually nothing. Braking performance is 'ok'. The brake will haul you up - but the lever needs to be pulled in quite along way in order to get that braking ability. I guess in some ways this is ultimately more about lever-feel than out-and-out performance (?) Few of my friends have Brembo-braked KTM's and none of theirs feel like mine. All being much firmer feeling, much more solid, and acting alot sooner than mine in the levers travel. Anyone shed any light, throw me some ideas or give me some tips, as its spoiling my otherwise perfect for me bike ? Thanks in advance.
  13. 110% its leaking just from the threads (2009 EXCF - Brembo Caliper) Ive spiralled up some tissue and poked in the central hole in the nipple and its dry. Ive even left a cable tie on the lever in the garage to keep pressure on the system: and its still dry. So its definately coming from the threads only and NOT from the taper seal itself inside, although you'd think if it wasnt sealing properly to the seat in the caliper it would be leaking inside the nipple and outside (threads) as such......... Ive got a new bleed nipple on order and wondered if im ok to use a few wraps of PTFE tape on the threads as im presuming its a slightly loose fit into the caliper. Although this wasnt at all noticeable when we bled the brake a few days ago ? If not - what other choices do i have ?
    So far...so good - Dare we ask: 'Is this THE one' ?