DR600

Members
  • Content count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About DR600

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ontario
  1. Wow, I started this thread and can't believe how long it's been going! I no longer have the DR600... replaced it with a white 09 650
  2. Just sold my 600 (getting a 650) but used to use the german DR600 manual along with the english DR650 manual for translation... bikes are almost identical. I had carb troubles that I couldn't sort out as well so just gave in and sent it to the shop for a thorough cleaning - did the trick. Good luck, it's a fun bike but a pain in the ass. Send me your email & I'll send you both manuals & microfiche for parts. Edit: also bout the right leg... it's not about force but technique. Not sure if you have a manual decompression lever on the handlebars but here's how you start it with only a few kicks and no lever. Remember it's not about force but technique. 1 - pull choke out 2 - rest your foot on the kickstart with a bit of weight and let the kicker go down till it stops on it's own about halfway... (don't force it down just rest your foot there and let it go down on its own - might take a minute) 3 - keep your foot weighted till it goes down a touch more than halfway (now you're at TDC (piston's at Top Dead Center)). 4 - let it come back all the way up 5 - kick it all the way through very relaxed (remember not force) 6 - make sure choke is still out - repeat Once it gets going make sure the choke is still out till it warms up or it'll stall - engine will rev like crazy then choke will pop in on it's own once warmed up.
  3. July 1st already, so what's the verdict?
  4. I used the Krylon Interior Exterior White Semi Gloss as a primer as it's a little thicker and will fill in light scratches, I sprayed until everything was white and even, wait about 20 minutes, dry sand using wet or wet/dry 400 black sandpaper then re-apply primer as needed with sanding in between coats or the finish will come out really rough to the touch. After your done with the white base coat use the regular Krylon For Plastic for the final coat, the final color I chose was "Dover", not too bright of a white and a perfect match for dirtbike plastic, the cap on the spray can looks beige but it's not, this combo seems to stick even when the plastic bends. Remember to wipe the nozzle of the spray can while your painting or it'll drip, wait about a half hour to an hour between coats as this paint is noticeably thinner than the primer (interior/exterior). Sand between coats, surface should feel smooth not gritty, put as many coats as you like. If at any time you need to start over again, let the paint dry and use a spray type gasket remover to wipe the paint off with a cloth, wash the plastic with soap and start over. If anyones interested, I also bondo'd the tank and used Krylon Propane Tank paint. It's been a while since I've painted & I've dropped, scraped and washed the bike many times & it still looks good. edit: pics weren't showing up for some reason, I'll try to add as attachments
  5. Krylon Fusion - used it on front / rear fender, side panels, headlight shroud and it's pretty tough, hasn't scraped off yet and I drop this bike a lot, if you mess up while painting use a spray gasket remover and it'll wipe right off with a cloth. Sand lightly between coats for a smooth finish and wait a week before applying stickers cause it dries in 20 minutes but takes a long time to cure.
  6. There are three wires that connect to the flasher, one of them is a ground that you should wrap around the washer under the bulb... try not to kill your battery.
  7. The DR650 was redesigned, the oil cooler was eventually moved higher so there's a chance it might be in the way of the tank and you'll maybe have to relocate it further down, the seat and frame were also redesigned but looking at both bikes... looks like the SE was a precursor to the modern DR's and not affected by the redesign so it could be a straight bolt on, but that's only my opinion... If you decide to go for it, let me know how it turns out.
  8. I notice a lot of guys when in a turn, sticking their legs out and counter leaning like they're riding motocross instead of pavement, i did this riding my first street bike which was a dual sport because dirt riding was all I knew. Here's a video where they're sticking out their legs: This DR650 guy counter leans into the corners, that is, leaning the bike one way but positioning his body the other as you would do in the dirt. So here's my question supermoto dudes, does riding a supermoto warrant this kind of technique even though the crotch rocket guys look at you like your retarded or is sticking out your leg and counter leaning plain wrong?
  9. Learn siomething new everyday! Thanks.
  10. Thanks guys. can the loose nipple snag the tube from inside the rim?
  11. bout 15 miles each way I'm just worried about the loose nipple (nipple hehe)... it's just hanging there and loose, worried it'll snag my tube.
  12. Loose spoke. over tightened it... snap - spoke broke off. Took the spoke out but nipples just hanging there loose and you can push it in. I'm not gonna be able to fix it till next week - you guys think it's alright to ride to work with a missing spoke till i get it fixed next week?
  13. Loose spoke. over tightened it... snap - spoke broke off. Took the spoke out but nipples just hanging there loose and you can push it in. I'm not gonna be able to fix it till next week - you guys think it's alright to ride to work with a missing spoke till i get it fixed next week?
  14. I have an 86 DR600. In my experience that's not the case, the parts that are available through Suzuki take about 4 weeks to arrive and a lot of parts have been discontinued, in my case such as kickstart lever, exhaust, left side plastic cover (right side still available), fairing etc.
  15. You'll definately brake your foot if you try to start it that way!! The reason you're getting kickback is because you're letting the decomp lever pop out then kicking hard.The way to do it is: # With the kickstand down and sitting on the bike... # Kick slowly through the stroke once all the way down. # Bring the kickstart back up again. # Kick slowly again until the compression stops your downward motion (the kickstart will be about halfway down and the piston will be at around Top Dead Center (TDC)). # Pull in the decompression lever and continue the downward stroke by an inch. DONT LET THE DECOMP LEVER POP OUT YET # Bring the kickstart back up again. # WITH THE DECOMP LEVER STILL IN Kick hard. # Repeat. Other than what you described when trying to kick it before you went for a ride, are you saying there is no compression at all now when you kick down?