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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

dr350rdr

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About dr350rdr

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  1. Okay ...what's "really nice shape"??? Did you test the coil/cap assembly? Based on what your initial post said, it sounds like it could be the cap with the resistor going bad. Don't know how old the bike is but the resistor will degrade over time. This may be the "simple fix" you keep hearing about. If you test the coil secondary and get a very high resistance reading (out of limits) then test the cap and coil separately. If the coil resistance drops dramatically then it's probably the cap resistor going bad. The cap unscrews from the plug lead. After you unscrew the cap, trim the end of the plug wire about 1/4" back ...this will allow the cap to screw into some new wire. If the cap is reading really high resistance then get a new one. NGK makes one: VD 05FP is what will work with the DR. They cost less than $5. If the other safety switches were bad, chances are you would get no spark.
  2. I've just gone through what you're going through now on my '93 DR350. What I found was the resistor in the spark plug boot (oft times referred to as a resistor cap) was toast. The bike would fire, then not ....an on-again-off-again kind of thing ....until finally it just quit. Here's a neat website with a pdf of the Suzuki shop manual: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/dr350.htm The manual has a trouble-shooting analysis of the ignition/electrical system. You will need a multi-meter for the testing. For resistance/continuity testing make sure to depower any circuits/components you are testing. If you have a battery as part of the electrical system (street or conversion bike) then you need to disconnect it. For testing, touch the leads of the meter to the appropriate connector terminals. For components sensitive to polarity (like the regulator) the book tells you what lead (+ or -) to use and where to place it. You will need to adjust the resistance range of the meter so it will read the expected resistance results as posted in the manual; use the smallest range that will cover the expected results for the best accuracy. Read the meter instruction manual; some meters come with separate connections for measuring resistance and voltage so make sure the are connected appropriate to what you're going to measure. He also has a pdf parts manual; it contains exploded diagrams of all the major sub-systems on the bike ...the picture being worth a thousand words kinda thing.
  3. Thanks guys and thanks for the link explaining the theory behind it. Okay, so I'll be ordering up the NGK plug boot.
  4. Better known as a spark plug boot. My '93 DR350 started giving me fits the other day so as part of the preliminary trouble shoot I checked the spark by pulling the plug and laying it on the cylinder. Spark was weak and erratic ....sometimes there sometimes not. Time to dust off the multimeter. I found the plug cap bad ...the resistor in it was blown. So I'm thinking, what if I just replaced the resister with a chunk of like-gauge copper wire? The reason for the resistor is RF (radio frequency) suppression ...just like in your car. At first I thought too much current would flow through the coil but ...no, the CDI controls the primary voltage in the coil and it's gonna be pretty much the same ...and therefore the amount of current and voltage induced into the secondary windings will therefore be the same. The only thing I see changing is the ultimate voltage and current across the plug ...which without the resistor will be more and ...more is better. Rather than turning some of the electrical energy into heat (what a resistor does) 100% of it is used to make a bigger stronger spark. Yes?
  5. Hi All, Been lurking about for some time and finally came with a question; I am considering installing a Baja Designs dual sport kit on my dirt version '93 DR350. What is the conscensous regarding the use of a cush hub for street use? Would it be wise to install a rear hub from a dual sport DR on my dirt only version for use on the street or is the gearbox able to withstand the extra shock loads without a cush hub? My understanding is that the cush hub reduces load shock on the gearbox for bikes ridden on the street ...something not needed in the dirt as tire slippage and the softer terrain accomodate absorbing the load shock. Thanks Mike 93DR350