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codious13

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About codious13

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  1. The jetting would be a trial and error experiment. However, I think you could guess reasonably close to start. For example, a 40mm carb is 16% more area than the stock 37mm, which matches the increase in displacement (16%). This means that the velocity through the carb would basically be equal to the original 250 at any throttle opening. If a proportional amount of air and fuel is required for the larger displacement, I think you would essentially use the same jets as the velocity creating the venturi effect across the jets would be equivalent. Am I way off base with this?!? It would probably end up more trouble than it's worth, but thought it would be an interesting discussion. As a side note, I see the new 2012 YZ250F is running the 39mm carb.
  2. So I punched some quick numbers as I'm getting ready to big bore (290cc) my WR250F this winter and found that the increase in displacement is 16% and the area opening increase between the 39mm FCR and the 37mm is 11%. Is it worth bolting on a 39mm or 40mm carb (or boring the stock carb) with a big bore kit for the top end's sake? Or will the intake and exhaust ports ultimately restrict the flow? FYI, I will also be running Stage 1 intake and Stage 2 exhaust cams with a full FMF exhaust, (debating a port job as well). Any good knowledge is appreciated!
  3. I've been working on my TLR for a while now to get it into trial/trail shape. Here's how I would answer your questions: 1. You'll need the stock fork brace to mount the fender after you remove rivets. Lewisportusa.com has a nice replacement available. 2. I assume you're talking about the Delkevic exhaust, but I have no information about it other than it looks amazing and wish I had one. Only bummer is it doesn't have a spark arrestor. 3. The stock chain is a 96 link standard (non o-ring) chain. They can be had for $25. 4. I have removed my chain guard and have seen pictures of others doing the same. 5. Check Lewisport Trials for a triple clamp. I know one exists somewhere but don't know the cost. 6. I'm seeing that most of the trials throttles (Domino, others) are a slow opening throttle. It probably depends on what you'd like. I have a slow Domino on mine. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. I'm trying to do a restoration/modification of my TLR. It's going to have a basic light kit, etc. so I could potentially run it on the street. My goal is to meet the European spec/finish. If I ever finish it, I'll post pictures and a writeup of everything done/bolted onto it.
  4. Here's a link to the Flatland Racing web site where you will find the odometer cap wheel spacer you seek. Have one and love it. http://flatlandracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FR&Product_Code=21-08&Category_Code=Odometer+Eliminators If you do end up wanting some more power other than free mods but don't want to spend a gob, consider Hot Cams - Stage I for an enduro/offroad use and possibly the 08-up stock piston (higher compression). That's how I have my bike set up and it works great. The piston kit can be had for $80 next time you do a top end. Some guys leave one of the rings out for less friction. Do a search and you'll find some more information. I would also consider doing an additional free mod to the stock muffler. If you look into the back of the muffler you'll see a baffle with 2 smallish pipes coming through it. There's also a mysterious round indentation in the baffle where it looks like your favorite 1"± hole saw could remove a little more restriction. Thanks for the hint, Yamaha. Worked great on my WR as well.
  5. I think the key is the "F" in the model name. The other is most likely the 2 stroke YZ250.
  6. I think I ended up using the DRZ125 dog bones (rod tie) with the KLX sleeve. The DRZ part is a few millimeters shorter than the KLX, so it raises the bike slightly. I've looked at the clearances with this setup and there are no problems, but it appears that it this is as good as it gets without a longer shock or some other radical linkage modifications.
  7. Do a search for Art5's description in this forum and you should find your answers. You just flip the linkage upside down from its stock position and grind a small amount off the front for clearance, as I remember. You can do this modification for both the stock and KX shocks. It raised the bike an appreciable amount. I also discovered that the KLX/DRZ125 dog bones can be swapped onto the KLX140 to raise the back another 1/2" or so. That will pretty much max out the suspension's ability to raise the bike and still handle reasonably. Good luck!
  8. Ok, I've been keeping up with your builds on Planetminis and I'm super impressed. I think you should make a small business out of these conversions. Even if you just provided a modified powdercoated frame and the necessary spacers/adapters so the diyers could take it from there. Just a thought, it definitely seems like this could be more than a hobby for you. Sign me up for a CRF230 frame modified to accept a CRF150RB swingarm and rear disc brake. Keep up the amazing work on these conversions!
  9. I can't say definitively what will fix your bike, but I can tell you what worked for my 2005 WR. I replaced the clutch springs with aftermarket WR (not YZ) springs. Close inspection of the aftermarket springs revealed they had a larger wire size with a greater pitch than stock (the springs are stiffer than stock). I had tried YZ springs, but they did not make the problem better. With the new WR springs, the drag was completely gone and I was ecstatic I only had $10 into the new springs. Good luck!
  10. Please post a picture when you get it done. I've often thought an XR200 powered CRF150F would be a great bike.
  11. I can understand you don't want to spend more money, but the short answer is you need to get your hands on the YZ exhaust cam or a Hot Cam (exhaust) to improve the power of your bike. I put the YZ exhaust cam in my brothers WR and Hot Cams (Stage 1) in my bike. They are both better than the stock WR cam, but I give the nod to the Hot Cams Stage 1 for a WR that gets ridden in the woods. Good luck and leave your grey wire unplugged.
  12. If you buy the 2010 YZ250F, you'll have access to nearly 10 years worth of knowledge and expertise from all of the aftermarket companies and engine shops that have worked with this motor. The 2010 has more aftermarket parts for the engine than any of the other guys' motors. Now, if you're holding out for FI then you could wait and see. I also would guess that if Yamaha put some time into tuning the "old" motor for the 2010 model they will keep it around for at least a few more years. My bet is that the 2010 will not be obsolete in 5 years.
  13. http://www.flickr.com/photos/12873796@N00/532338781/ Here's my WR in black trim with the GYT-R graphics. Hopefully the picture link works.
  14. I had those black GYT-R graphics on my 2005 WR with a black tank, shrouds, fenders and a blue seat and it was amazing, in my opinion. Too bad they're discontinued. I wish I could have them back every day.
  15. Are you thinking about having someone make a high compression piston for the stock bore? If so, I'd love to get my hands on one. I'm guessing someone has a stock piston laying around from a big bore swap. Otherwise, I think you can get a piston kit on ebay for $60±. Good luck and let us know if you end up having someone make some pistons, I'd get in on that.