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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

ptdorris

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About ptdorris

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    Virginia
  1. I picked up the parts from the Yamaha dealer last week. This is the correct part number for the Teikei float bowl gasket. Both the shop and parts manuals show a gasket with a cutout at the front of the gasket. The correct gasket does not have the cutout. PN: 5Y1-14384-00-00 Regards, Paul
  2. Here's a quick update. I removed the #140 main jet and installed a #145 and now the bike is running great! No miss on the top end. All this testing took it's toll on the carb bowl gasket. I think the ethanol in the gas attacked the rubber gasket. When I pulled the bowl off this time the rubber gasket came out of the groove in the bowl. The gasket swelled in length and would no longer fit. I have a friend that builds and races drag bikes. He suggested I clean the gasket, cut it, re-size it and then use Crazy glue to re-bond the ends. He said he's done this in an emergency. I tried it and it worked! It's not a permanent fix but it will get you riding again. More Problems Since this is a Teikei carb there is no simple solution. I tried to order a new bowl gasket but noticed that the picture of the gasket in the shop manual does not look like gasket on the bike. The gasket in the picture has a round cutout along the front. The gasket on my bike is straight - no cutout! I went to http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx and the picture of the gasket also showed the cutout I called the dealer and they said there is only one part number for the gasket and their drawing shows the cutout. I called Yamaha customer support. They took my VIN number and said the same thing the dealer said! I asked them how could the part in the drawing look different than the actual gasket on the bike? After a few minute of research Yamaha said "the pictures in the parts manuals may only be 80% correct." Yamaha advised me to order the gasket and were confident I would get the actual gasket on my bike - not the gasket incorrectly drawn in all of the parts and shop manuals. I ordered the part from my dealer. They said it would take about five days to arrive. Here is the part number: 5Y1-14384-00-00. The cost was a little over $10.00. I will post the gasket status after I have it my hand. In the mean time, Be real careful pulling the bowl off you Teikei carb. Regards, Paul
  3. Hi, I gave the dealer the part number for the #38 pilot jet. They had to order it but I had it in less than a week. Here is the part number in case you didn't have it: Yamaha PN: 43F-14342-19 (#38 Pilot Jet). Good luck. Paul
  4. Hi, I haven't changed the carb but after this experience it did cross my mind. I have 2005 TTR230. I opened up the air box, installed a No Toil air filter and a complete Big Gun Evo X exhaust with the header. I left the baffle in the pipe. I upped the pilot jet to a #38 (Yamaha 43F-14342-19) and the main jet to a #130 (Yamaha 228-14343-65). The bike seemed to run fine just running up and down the street. Yesterday I was able to take the bike out on a long straight away and at high RPMs the bike bogged down. No problems with the idle. I'm at sea level and the temperature was about 85 deg F. I pulled the choke a little and the bike ran great. The bike was definitely too lean at the top end - idle to mid range was fine. This bummed me out as I wanted to go riding today with my son. Time to up the main jet again. I called Sudco and ordered a selection of main jets (#135, #140, #145 and #150) and had them over nighted. WARNING FOR THE REMAINDER OF THIS POST - Sudco had nothing for the Teikei carb so I had to resort to drastic measures. Someone posted the Mikuni part number for a #130 main jet so I was able to get Sudco to cross reference a #135, #140, #145 and #150 Mikuni main jet. Here are the differences in the two main jets: The Mikuni main jet is round and slotted at the base whereas the Teikei main jet is hex with no slot. The Mikuni main jet is threaded about 2/3 rds of the length of the jet and has an un-threaded shoulder for the remaining 1/3 of the distance - near the base. The Teikei main jet it threaded the entire length. At a casual glance it appears they both have the same thread pitch but now I don't believe this is the case. When I removed the #130 Teikei main jet and tried to install the #135 Mikuni main jet it started easily but then started to bind slightly when screwed all the way in. I also used a small O-ring at the base of the jet on the un-threaded portion. I took the jet to a local auto store and they sized up the O-ring. The bike ran better but still bogged down. I pulled the #135 main and installed a #140. This seems like the ticket for now:applause: I may have to go up to a #145 as I think there is a real small miss at WOT but it's definitely much better than it was with the #130 main. At least I can ride the bike. For the adventurous types here are the Mikuni part numbers for the main jets: I originally saw the Mikunin #130 main jet posted as KN102221130. I think it may have been Yamajeb who originally posted the Mikuni part number. Whoever it was - Thanks!!! Sudco cross referenced the main jets as follows: N102.221 #135 (N102221135) N102.221 #140 (N102221140) N102.221 #145 (N102221145) N102.221 #150 (N102221150) Sudco wanted to sell a minimum of four (4) each at $3.50 a piece. Since I was buying four sizes they reduced the minimum to two (2) of each. The total came to $28.00 plus the over night charge. If someone knows a source for genuine Teikei jets - reasonably priced - I would appreciated a phone number or link. It think the #130 Teikei main jet I bought from Yamaha was in the $20 range - ouch! Kind of hard to test a range of jet sizes at that price. I may send Sudco one of my Teikei main jets to see if they can match it up a little closer. I hope this helps. Paul
  5. We ride over in Surrey, VA at Slades Park. Here's a link: http://www.sladespark.com/ There's another place over in Ivor, VA called Mr. T's Hunt Club. The day we went there the place was flooded so we couldn't ride. The owner seemed like a real nice guy. Paul
  6. I haven't searched lately. But back in 2005 when I purchased my TTR230 I couldn't find a shift lever. I have a friend that builds and races drag bikes. I sent him my shift lever and he added an inch to the length. This made all the difference in the world. Before the mod my boot was constantly getting caught up under the shift lever. Do some searching and if there's still nothing available find a local fab shop. They can weld in a section to extend the shift lever. Good luck, Paul PS - Where are you in Virginia? I'm in Williamsburg.
  7. I have a 2005 TTR230 - I'm sure all TTR230s are the same. From page 3-7 of the shop manual: Intake valve: 0.05 mm to 0.09 mm Exhaust valve: 0.15 mm to 0.19 mm Let me state the obvious (well not to me) - the above measurements are in mm not inches. I know because I set the clearance to inches, put the bike back together and then realized my error. I used a 0.003" feeler gauge for the intake. This works out to be 0.076 mm. I used a 0.007" feeler gauge for the exhaust. This works out to be 0.178mm. I hope this help. Paul
  8. My wife rides a TTR125LE. This is her first bike and she really likes it. Just be prepared to change the pilot jet when you buy it. We're 50 feet above sea level and the bike would not idle without the choke on. The bike came with a #15 pilot jet. This was way too small. We stepped it up to a #17.5. It was better but still not right. So we installed a #20 and now the idles nicely. Not more starting or idling complaints. We purchased the jets from Sudco. Good luck. Paul
  9. I'm 6' tall and wear a size 12 boot. I had the same problem shifting. I got the tip of my boot caught under the shift level and nearly fell over when I could not get my boot un-stuck! I wanted to wear my work boots because I didn't like riding with my mx boots. Problem is I'm 46 and older bones don't heal too quickly so I knew I needed to wear my boots. Moving the shift lever up or down a tooth on the shaft wasn't the answer for me. It was the spacing between the foot peg and the tip on the shift lever that caused my problem. I looked for an aftermarket shift lever without any luck. No suprise here! I have a friend who builds and races drag bikes. I sent the shift lever to him and asked him to extend it about an inch. This made ALL the difference in the world. No problem shifting now and no complaints about riding with my boots. Good luck, Paul
  10. Cannon Racecraft called me on Thursday (Dec 7th) to let me know they were done and the springs are on the way. I hope to have them by the middle of next week. Unfortunately, I'm traveling next week and won't be home until Friday night. They are going to include a printout providing all of the specs. The price was $240.00 (including shipping) for front fork springs and the rear shock spring. I had the rear spring powder coated red. I thought it would go well with the white and the blue. They originally told me it would take two weeks but they actually did it in 8 days. I will post more next weekend. Regards, Paul
  11. I've been frustrated at the lack of after market parts for our TTR230s - especially suspension parts. I'm a little heavy for the TTR230 - 220 lbs with riding gear. So I called Cannon Racecraft a few months ago to see if they would make a set of springs for me. The only problem is they have never made a set for the TTR230 and asked if I would be willing to send the springs. Well I finally took the plunge and pulled a fork spring and the rear shock spring. They went out the door yesterday. Once they get the springs they should be able to come up with whatever spring rate you need based on your riding style. I hope this helps you guys that are looking to tune your suspension. I will post more after I get the springs back. Here's a link to their site: http://cannonracecraft.com/ Disclaimer - I have never dealt with Cannon Racecraft but I have a friend that builds and races drag bikes. They put together a really nice set of front springs in less than a week. He was extremely happy with the springs, the price and the delivery. Regards, Paul
  12. 46 years old on an 05 TTR230! Having a blast riding with my 4 year old (JR50) and my 9 year old (CRF50F). Paul