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      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

WYOXR400

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About WYOXR400

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    TT Member

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    Colorado
  1. Well just figured I would update this post with what I found out. After numerous attempts at adjusting the valves the tick just would not go away. I finally decided to take it in to a shop to see if they could figure it out. It turns out the cam sproket had come loose. The screws had worked themselves out just a little bit and were rubbing. I don't know how I missed it when I pulled the cover off, but oh well. At least it will be fixed soon without too much expense. Oh yeah, valves and cam were fine.
  2. Perfect timing...had just the product I was looking for. Thanks.
  3. I'll try to set it again tonight using the kickstarter to advance the flywheel. I have always removed the plug in order to ease the process of obtaining TDC. I will pay special attention to the RH exhaust valve this time. Is there a way to completely remove the auto decomp mechanism without getting a new cam? Is it just a lobe that does this, or is there another devise in there that allows this? Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. When I really just want to give up on the noise you guys really help. Maybe one more try will be the answer!
  4. Thanks for the input everyone. Manual decomp was unhooked so don't think that is the issue. As far as the RH exhaust goes, I've made sure the flywheel hasn't spun clockwise to engage the auto decomp. Is there something I could be missing there. I've tried with a standard wrench and a big torque wrench while adjusting and can never seem to stop the flywheel from spinning real fast at a certain point. Could that be the problem? The cam chain is within spec also. Thanks everyone !
  5. I'm hoping you all can help me out with a problem I can't seem to get rid of. I have a tick coming from the head on my 99 XR400. I have adjusted and checked the valves numerous times and it does not seem to help. I have even pulled the head cover off to do an inspection of all the internals. Everything appears to look fine with no excessive wear. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what could possibly be wrong. Could it be the actual valves? I have very minimal smoke on start up so I didn't think that could be the issue. I'm thinking about just running it as is, but it is pretty loud. Any guidance would be much appreciated.
  6. I will just be there sat night and sunday. We're camping out. I'm not too good, so I won't even be entering. My two buds are pretty decent though. We'll be in the dark grey 03 F250 probably with matching topper. Thought about bringing the trailer, but gas prices are too high. Stop by and say hi if you see me.
  7. I know Revloc makes an auto clutch for the 400. I don't know what the price is though. Someone buy one and let us know how well it works.
  8. You'll have to let us know how that paint on the frame is holding up. I considered painting my frame when it was torn all apart, but wasn't sure how well it would hold. Looks good!
  9. Make sure you're at TDC with the cam lobes facing down. There will be two marks on the gear. You want these two marks lined up as closely as possible with the top of the head. Then screw in the two allen heads and that's all there is to it. If you have the service manual it is covered in there pretty well. Hope that helps.
  10. Well you could buy a motorcycle trailer, or a receiver carrier. My friend just got a $100 receiver carrier off ebay and he likes it. The cheapest route would be to pull the top off your bronco, take out the back seat, drop the tailgate, and throw it in
  11. If it's just needs a new piston and rings I'd do it yourself. Order the parts from service honda and it should be around $100 to $120 for the rings, gaskets, and piston. Take your cylinder to the shop and get it honed for about $10. It really isn't that hard of a job. I just did mine not too long ago. Good luck.
  12. The bottom head broke off on my mine, but I just left it. I'll probably stick a new muffler on there one of these days anyways.
  13. I just spent countless hours on that stupid bolt. The big c clamp method worked for me. What a pain that was though. I will now be removing mine about every six months to avoid that problem again.
  14. Looks like a fun trip. I might have to go up there next year.
  15. That L shaped braket is what keeps everything in there nice and snug. There are two holes in it. One goes on a post on the carb, and the other one is for the screw that you took out. Make sure the bottom cable is behind the idle adjustment knob. Hope that helps.