moto-scoot

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About moto-scoot

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  1. The Megasquirt ECU (with the extra software) basically counts the teeth on the wheel after it detects the missing tooth that is 60 degrees before TDC. Each of the tooth on the wheel is 10 degrees apart. For cranking it goes in to a mode known as trigger return and fires the injector and spark plug on the 5th tooth after the missing tooth (10 degrees before TDC). During normal running is uses tooth 3 (30 degrees before TDC) to trigger a timer in the Megasquirt to fire the spark plug, the timer’s time changes to fire the plug at the specific degrees followed on the ignition table. MegaSquirt 2 and Microsquirt uses a different method of counting the teeth, it uses every tooth to figure the exact degrees that the crank is at. One neat feature of having a trigger wheel on a crank is you can log the time in microseconds between the teeth during engine running. Looking at a log of time between the teeth, you can seen the crank speed slow down during the compression stoke, and speed up during the firing stroke. Also a knock can be detected as a rapid deceleration of the crank speed around TDC. Some fuel injection systems can use the information to return the timing if knock is detected or to phase the injection event without a cam sensor for sequential injection.
  2. Fuel injection systems are normally setup to add more fuel based on the coolant temp, to compensate for extra wall wetting of a cold engine. You don't need a choke. The extra throttle blade that is servo controlled on most late model sport bikes, and the 08' KTM EFI is for improved air velocity when the user wacks open the throttle at low RPMs, emissions, sometimes traction control, and also to keep inexperience riders from looping a bike when they wack the throttle wide open in 1st gear. I have found I don't even need idle control on my DRZ EFI setup, it ticks over fine after a few revs after startup. I still have not found the time to finish tuning and build the custom fuel pump for my DRZ. I have been to busy on other projects, my shop and travel.
  3. I don't think the PWM on the fuel pump is necessary. I don't even have the fuel pressure regulator referenced to the manifold vacuum. Using MegaSquirt 2 with 1 microsecond pulse width resolution will work with a oversized injector. I am currently using the hirez MS 1 extra code, it does not have the resolution that MS 2 has. I have found that I don't need the idle air control. It always idles just fine after a couple of revs after start up. It would be useful if your cold starting at low temperatures, but you could even setup a simple air bypass to keep the revs up until the engine warms up. Uses a fuel pump from a Honda TRX680 ATV, it only draws 15-20 watts, unlike many car fuel pumps that draw 40-90 watts. Jeff Corsaro
  4. I still need to fabricate the fuel pump enclosure. I have the Honda TRX680 ATV fuel pump zip tied to the frame. I have the fuel map rough tuned from a few runs up and down the road. It is running fairly rich. The ignition timing mimics a stock DRZ CDI box. I have hooked the wideband O2 controller to the ECM, and will ride the bike while data logging to tune the fuel-map further. Once I have the fuel pump setup, I will do further tuning on the dyno. The whole setup, ignition, fuel pump, injector and ECM draw around 2-3.5 amps. It would be feasible to do a similar setup on a bike with out a battery, with a little extra circuitry to filter the raw power from the stator. As for mileage, fuel injection is not the magic bullet. You could see 10-20% better fuel economy at low loads, with lean fueling, advanced ignition timing and better atomization. Cold starting and cold drivability should be better that a carbureted setup with careful tuning of the coolant temperature enrichment.
  5. Last week I had the bike running with spark and fuel injection running reliably from the ECU. I spent about an hour tuning the idle/low throttle areas of the fuel table. The only problem is that the 400cc/min injector flows too much for the DRZ engine at warm idle, for a good idle, the injector only need 1.2ms pulse width. I wish I had an idle pw around 2.0-2.5 ms. The only good thing about the large injector, it has the capacity for fuel a motor making around 60 hp. Before I go any further, I need to fab an aluminum enclosure for the new fuel pump I want to use. The Hayabusa pump is too large, and is hang by the hoses and wires near the foot peg. The ignition advance tuning has worked out very nice with the ability to have a 3d table, coolant temp based advance to bring the idle a little higher when the engine is cold, and intake air temp retard to pull the timing back to prevent knock when the temp is high. I sold and installed the FCR39 from my bike to a friend with a DRZ400s, I haven’t given him a price, what are used FCRs with the cables, intake boot, and jetting going for these days?
  6. Thanks for the compliments, I am going to "steal" one of your ideas that I saw in one of your photo archives. Since I am omitting the stock coolant reservoir, I am going to uses your "chicken baster reservoir".
  7. I have been working on the ignition setup in the last few weeks. At first I welded metal tabs on the flywheel for the stock pickup, but I had some problems with misfires because the Megasquirt would loose sync with the 12 "triggers" I had setup. I decided that I needed the rework the flywheel to have a 36-1 trigger wheel (36 teeth spaced every 10 degrees on the flywheel, with one missing so the ECU can determine TDC). I had a trigger wheel was water-jet cut from a 1/4" thick plate of steel, and I turned the flywheel down so the wheel can be press fit in place for the ignition pickup. I have scraped the idea of using the Hayabusa pump, I did not like weight of it or the 4.5 amp power draw. I found a very small fuel pump from an EFI Honda ATV for a $110, it only draws 1.5 amps. Unfortunately I have to fabricate and machine a small aluminum enclosure that will fit in place of the coolant reserve tank. The "surge" tank that will house the fuel pump and will also have a fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter in it. It will be nice, because I will not have to plumb a fuel return line back to the stock tank, so the final setup will look very tidy and there will be fewer fittings and hoses that could potentially leak. Here is the water-jet cut wheel, it is amazing the detail you can cut out of 1/4" plate steel, you can see the flywheel with the orignal pickup "humps" machined off. Here it is fitted on the flywheel
  8. Its MiniMS board that I bought two years ago, I don't think the author of the board has made any more. I think he had to pay royalties to the authors of the MegaSquirt. The up-and-coming microsquirt ECU is the way to go.
  9. I have seen the LTR450 pump at the dealer, its mounted behind the head on the frame rail. It looks similar to the hayabusa pump, only shorter. The hayabusa pump housing has a large fuel filter in it, and a manifold referenced pressure regulator in it. I am not sure if the LTR pump has an internal pressure regulator. I would not mind getting my hands on the LTR pump to check it out, I think it cost a little over $200 from the dealer. I would have liked to fabricate a in-tank fuel pump, but I did not want to hack up my IMS 3.4 gal tank, and posibily have a fuel leak from the large hole.
  10. Here are some photos of work-in-progress: A top view of the throttle body, the green is the 400cc/min injector, the black thing in the lower left corner is the idle air stepper motor. A side view of the throttle body, the large black thing on the side houses the throttle position sensor, intake air temp sensor, and the manifold pressure sensor. Here are the parts uses in the system, from left to right: 3/8" brass bulkhead fitting for the fuel return to the tank, the Hayabuss external fuel pump, a techedge wideband o2 sensor controller, the ecu with a sealed connector, and the Honda TRX680 throttle body. Here are the insides of the ECU, once I have every thing dialed in; I am going to make a custom ECU with a smaller enclosure and smaller, more rugged surface mount components. Photo of the Hayabuss intake manifold rubber on the cylinder head; notice the cutout for the fuel injection spray into the intake. Bosch 14mm coolant temp sensor, fits in place of the fan temp switch, I was going to tap into the cylinder head to get a more accurate temp reading, but this works out fine: Wideband O2 sensor in mid pipe for tuning will be capped off once the system is tuned: The stock DRZ flywheel with two ignition triggers, they will be taken off on a lathe, and more teeth will be welded in place for better igntion timing/rpm accuracy. I will be repalcing the stock ignition coil with a late model coil-on-plug cap from a sport bike. Jeff
  11. The FCR carb on the DRZ is a PITA on the DRZ, I can't count how many times I have had the rear sub frame swung up to play with the carb. On my old 98' WR400, it was much easier to access the jets on the FCR carb. You don't want to know how much $$$ I have into this project all ready. I probably have about $175 in the sealed connectors. If anyone else want's to tackle a DIY efi on a DRZ, I would be happy to share settings/fuel tables once I have them dialed in.
  12. That's what I measured, when I powered the pump with 14 volts. It uses less current at 11.5 volts, and defiantly has enough pressure to feed a single injector in my application. It seems like most of the EFI pumps draw 50-100 watts, except for a tiny 15 watt Synerjet pump used on an EFI Aprilia 50cc bike. I don't think that pump will have the volume to feed a 400cc engine.
  13. Eventually I want to control the ignition, so I was not going to bother with a trigger from the stock ignition coil. I probably will end up grinding the long tooth off the flywheel and possibly turn the flywheel into a multi-tooth wheel with a welder, grinder and lathe. Thanks for the tip on the ignition curve from dynatek. A riding buddy of mine let dynatek barrow his DRZ recently for them to test there ignition system on his bike. I think I will build a fuel table for both Alpha-N and speed density and see what works out best. I do have a feeling a speed density based table will work better, especially when lugging the motor along on the trail.
  14. The last few months I have working on fuel injection and ignition control for my DRZ. I have setup fuel injection on a few other cars before with OEM components and with MegaSquirt with good success. MegaSquirt is an open source, DIY injection controller. I have toyed at the idea of EFI on the DRZ for a few years. I am not sure if it is worth the effort since I have had the FCR39 tuned fairly nicely, and a non-oem efi could possibly have reliability problems and fuel pump, ecu and sensors weight around 5 lbs more than a simple carburetor. Last night I had it fired up, and tuned in some of the low RPM/low load areas of the map and roughed in some of the other areas of the map. Here are some details of the setup: 40mm throttle body from a Honda TRX680 quad, I have looked ant many different motorcycle/ATV throttle bodies in this one looks like it will suit the application the best. 400cc 12-hole denso hi-impedance injector The throttle body has in integrated throttle position sensor, air temp. probe on the air filter side of the throttle blade, 2-bar m.a.p. sensor, and a stepper motor idle air control. The Suzuki Hayabuss intake rubbers are a perfect match for the cylinder intake spigot and the throttle body. I used a stock DRZ400S air box boot to connect to the air filter side of the throttle body. Suzuki Hayabusa external fuel pump with an integrated fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter, mounted were the coolant tank reservoir was. MegaSquirt based controller, running the extra code in a sealed enclosed with a sealed connector and extra circuitry to pickup the stock VR sensor ignition pickup signal, the components will be potted to protect them from vibration once everything is tested. The map is setup Alpha-N hybrid, so the injection length is determined by the RPMs, throttle blade opening, manifold pressure, along with minor fuel trim corrections from the air and coolant temp sensors and the barometric pressure a bosch 14mm coolant sensor that fits in place of the fan temp switch in the radiator, the fan will be controlled by the efi computer (on at 210 F, off at 207 F). The fuel tank has a 3/8" brass bulk head fitting the for fuel return. I am using a hi-flow pingle tap for the fuel feed to the pump. The fuel injection wiring harness is made with sealed deutsch connectors and high temp GLX automotive grade wiring. For tuning I have a techedge wideband controller with the wideband O2 sensor in the mid pipe. I few problems I have run into: The ignition pulse from the flywheel gives two trigger pulses per revolution, one before TDC and one at TDC. I will probably have to shave one of the two lobes off the flywheel when I get to setting up the ignition control. For now I have set the fuel injection controller to two cylinders, with odd fire to get a correct RPM reading. I am still using the stock CDI ignition box. MegaSquirt still has problems with the two triggers at cranking. The stock 180 watt stator seems to run every thing ok, it is charging the battery when the rpms are over 2200. Here is what everything draws: Stock headlamp: 55w LED Tail/brake light: 3w Fuel pump: 57w Speedo and idiot lights: may be 3w Turn signals (rarely used) 20w Injector (worst case, 100% open) 11w EFI controller: 5w Cooling fan: 20w So the worst case power draw would be 150-160 watts I'll post some photos of the setup when I get a chance. So far with an hour of tuning, it idles better than any carbureted DRZ and the throttle response is very crisp from idle to WOT with no load. Once I get everything fairly dialed in, I’ll fine tune the fuel map on a dyno. Does any one have the ignition curve for the stock CDI? I know that it idles around 7 degrees, and it looks like all the advance is in around 4500 rpms. Jeff Corsaro