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dr rider

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About dr rider

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    Iowa
  1. Desertskyy I don't believe it's the rev limiter. Jcalis My air box has the snorkel removed from the top, done by the previous owner. My original question was that given my symptom, it cuts out under full throttle/high RPM, do I need to increase or decrease the jet size? I went from a 127.5 to a 140. I'd like to know whether cutting out at high RPM likely indicates a rich or lean condition. Based on some of the responses to this thread, I'm starting to think the 140 may be too rich. I realize the only way to know for sure is to try it with another jet. Just hoped I could get some input as to whether it's more likely to be rich or lean based on the symptom.
  2. jcalis The symptom that I'm trying to cure is "at full throttle/high RPM it seemed to stumble a bit". You suggest that I try the 145 main next, but wouldn't that be going the wrong way, based on your comment that when it's "Too rich ... the engine will chug and sputter at WOT"? Wouldn't I need to go with a smaller rather than larger jet? I'm confused.
  3. It's finally warming up outside, so I went for a ride on the gravel roads near my home. The rejetted carb seemed to run fine at idle and mid-range, but when at full throttle/high RPM it seemed to stumble a bit. As I said above, I put a 140 main jet in as a starting point. Should I go up or down in jet size to cure this stumble?
  4. I have a '92 350. Pretty much the same bike as yours. Keep the 350 carb. Yes, the 350 had lights when new. But no brake light. So you'll have to do something there. I bought a generic enduro replacement from one of the mail order catalogs and wired up a switch on the foot brake. I don't see any reason for you to change the lighting coil. I'd keep the plastic tank off the 350, too. No potential for rust, etc. Good luck with your project. Mine's dead reliable and an old friend I'll probably never sell.
  5. OK, here's what I ended up doing. I visited my local Suzuki dealer and bought an assortment of jets a few sizes larger than what I had stock. They were only $3 apiece, so I thought why not get a good assortment so I don't have to go back to the dealer again? For what it's worth, the Clymer manual was wrong on the stock size - it said 132.5 when it was actually a 127.5. Luckily I had bought every size from 135 to 150. Anyway, while at the dealer I asked a mechanic what size he'd suggest and he said "try about a 10% increase and ride it to see if it runs OK." So with a 127.5, add 12.75 (10%) and 140 would be the starting point. The main jet is exceptionally easy to change on this bike. I loosened the clamps on the rubber intake and airbox tubes, removed the rear bolts on the fuel tank so it could be raised an inch or two, removed the bolt holding the rear brake reservoir, and was able to rotate the carb bottom to the left side enough to get at the four screws holding the bowl on. Took a total of about 15 minutes. As a starting point, I made no other changes to the carb. Put it back together and went for a ride. Started on the first kick - I love these old DRs - and ran fine for the short time I was able to ride it (10 minutes). Good power, no popping on decel. It was below zero outside, so the ride was short and the engine probably didn't fully warm up. It seemed to run fine, but I'll wait until it's warm out and I can get it up to operating temp for a while. That will be the true test. May do a plug chop to verify the a/f ratio, but with the larger jet at least I'm no longer worried I'll lean it out and do some damage.
  6. It's a dirt model with zero mods except the new pipe. I'm in the Midwest at about 1000' altitude.
  7. I have finally put an aftermarket exhaust on my faithful old 1992 DR 350. I bought a Pro Circuit T4. Has anyone else used this exhaust? Did you rejet, and, if so, what size main jet did you end up using? Or with another brand exhaust, what size jet did you use?
  8. When I got home last night, I showed my son the posts you guys made and your suggestions on how to fix his problem. He loosened the pinch bolts and discovered he had caused the lower end of the forks to bind by forcing the forks too close together. He tightened the axle, cycled the forks up and down a few times, and then tightened the pinch bolts. Problem solved! Thanks a bunch, everyone. He (and I) learned a valuable lesson.
  9. Thanks, guys. I'll try these suggestions tonight and report back.
  10. My son recently put a new front tire on his '01 YZ250F. He removed the front wheel assembly and took it to the local dealer to have them install a new tire and tube. He replaced the wheel assembly, and now the forks are super stiff and will hardly compress at all. I'm trying to help him learn to fix his bike himself, so I took kind of a hands off approach, letting him do the work without Dad. So I have no idea what he did to it, but there's definitely something wrong. Anyone have this happen to them? Anyone have any idea what he did wrong? Help! Thanks in advance.