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thekubiaks

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About thekubiaks

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    Kentucky
  1. thekubiaks

    $25 for first correct diagnosis

    I pulled the carb today and the main jet had a white film on it to about half its length. The slow jet was practically seized into its hole but I finally got it out with huge torque. The power jet was seized completely so I can't even tell which jet it is. The Main Jet is a 165 and the slow jet is a 45. I cleaned the crap out of the carb and the bike has been starting on the first kick. I'm thinking that there was some gas left in the bowl over the winter and it clogged up the jets. Perhaps a combination of a new top end and a clean carb was the winning combination. I'm still trying to figure out the jetting though. It idles fine, while at idle the throttle response is sharp and immediate but the engine stumbles at about the 1/3 transition point between the slow jet and the main/power jet when a full throttle run is started. Once it passes thru the stumble zone it rips to the top of the RPM band without a problem. So, one last problem to solve and I'll be ready for the Summer.
  2. thekubiaks

    Any tricks for quickly switching carb jets??

    That is so much easier... THX
  3. I am starting to play around with different jets on my 05' RM250. It sounds like some people can switch them out quickly at the track. Comments like... "pop this one in or switch that one and then ride it and see how it feels, etc" For me at least, each switch is a somewhat time consuming job. I'm getting pretty quick at getting the carb out of the bike but it is still a messy 20 minute job with gasoline everywhere. I'm not sure I should try it at the track. Any tips on how you quickly switch the jets?? Thanks
  4. thekubiaks

    $25 for first correct diagnosis

    I'm tearing the carb apart today , I'll definitely let everyone know if I find the cause. Thanks again for all of the help!!
  5. thekubiaks

    $25 for first correct diagnosis

    Jackson409, pm sent.
  6. thekubiaks

    $25 for first correct diagnosis

    Thanks for all of the responses. Here is some additional information. After paying $200 to the local Suzuki shop, they said you need a new plug (which they installed, no difference in starting issue, I should have taken it back) Plug with 2 hours of run time is a hair on the rich side (little bit black but not wet) I thought I might have a wiring problem because one time when I was having the cold start issue, a Suzuki mechanic friend said it might be a grounding issue with the STOP switch. I disconnected the Stop switch and it fired on the first kick. It had to be a fluke because that trick hasn't worked since. I replaced the entire wire bundle as well as the Stop switch and still no better. I just did a complete Top End job and finished today at lunch time. After 20 minutes of kicking it to start, it ran perfectly and has started on the first kick 3 times today after two hours between runs. For the Pipe question, I have a FMF Gnarly Pipe. For the powdercoated frame question, no it is factory. I know the original owner was a Suzuki dealer and he put a heavier flywheel in it for the woods as well as one click richer jet in the carb. Why? I don't know but the bike runs great when it starts. Tomorrow I will research the power valve as well as what jets are in the carb. That should keep me busy. Thanks everybody for the replies. ++++++++++++++ Still researching and had a couple thoughts, I am running a Good quality Mobil 2 Stroke Oil at 32:1 and 93 Octane gas. My pipe gets loaded up and when I laid the pipe on the ground about a silver dollar size wad of black goo came out. Is this a sign it is way too rich??? I just repacked the material in the silencer portion of the pipe. The goo came out of the front fat part of the FMF fatty.
  7. I'm having an issue with my 2005 RM250 that is making me nuts. It takes 20 minutes of kicking to start when it is cold but then runs like a champ and starts on the first kick after it warms up. I thought that it might need a new top end so I checked the compression and it was only 55psi. So, I just completed a Top End replacement on the bike this weekend. I also replaced the Reed valve with Boyesen Carbon Reeds. The bike did its usual, 20 minutes to start (which made me sweat that I screwed up the Top end job) but it started, didn't smoke up the countryside from being flooded, ran beautifully and was crisp and not too rich and not too lean. I am running out of ideas on why this thing is a nightmare to start. Any ideas??? First correct idea that fixes the problem and I'll send you $25 bucks. Thanks.
  8. thekubiaks

    I'M STUCK..Help please

    I'm a newbie at cylinder stuff but I do a lot of forced induction, suspension, and electronic fuel injection stuff. My mistake was that I tried to attach the piston to the rod and then slide the cylinder down onto the piston. (NO WERKIE) After a little research, I pushed the piston into the cylinder from the top and once I found the rings center point everything went in with a nice firm fit. I could still push the piston to the bottom of travel with firm finger pressure. The only weird thing was on the Wiseco piston, the centering points for the rings were not 180 degrees from each other, more like 45 degrees??????? I could tell that this was intentional from Wiseco because the centering points were a very small "bump" that fit perfectly with the rings (only one on the diameter of each ring and in different locations). If I chose my own points, these bumps would cause a high spot on the rings and they wouldn't fit in the cylinder. MAN, what a learning experience. Anyone with Wiseco pistons have the same experience with the rings?? Thanks
  9. thekubiaks

    I'M STUCK..Help please

    My Saturday project is doing a Top End job on my 2005 RM250. All is going great until I tried to fit the cylinder back over the new Wiseco piston and rings. I can't get the rings to compress enough to slide the cylinder down over the piston and I am afraid I will score the cylinder wall or piston if I force it. What is the trick??? THANKS
  10. thekubiaks

    Guys, I need HELP K5 RM250

    I am the OP and just did a compression test. Incredibly only 55psi. I am surprised the thing ran at all?? Anyway, I got the top end off and it looks like worn rings and getting bypass. There was black discolorations down the side of the piston. I am replacing the topend with a Wiseco piston topend kit this afternoon. One other question, I am replacing the reeds with Boyesen Carbon Fiber Reeds. This kit does away with the metal stock reed stopper. That seems strange but I guess the stiffness of the carbon fiber reed won't flex that much. Did I miss something?? Thanks for all of the advice. The job is pretty easy, just have to be organized.
  11. thekubiaks

    Guys, I need HELP K5 RM250

    Once the bike gets started, it idles fine (little rich) and runs pretty strong but it is just crazy hard to start when cold. I'll look at the reed valves too though. Thanks.
  12. thekubiaks

    Guys, I need HELP K5 RM250

    Well maybe I'll start with a compression test before I order the TopEnd kit.... Back to the original post on this thread, I mentioned that by disconnecting the kill switch the bike fired right up. I replaced the kill switch, the kill switch wires and then the entire bike main wire assembly and the problem resumed. Could it be some kind of electrical issue with the CDI??? More grey hair popping out. Thanks for the replies.
  13. thekubiaks

    Guys, I need HELP K5 RM250

    I have had many bikes including my current GSXR-1000 K7 that I track. All of these bikes are four strokes so I have to admit that this is my first two stroke that I have had for long enough to do maintenance. I work on forced induction systems (superchargers and turbo systems in cars) , custom fuel mapping and ignition, and suspensions but I have never ripped into a two stroke. So I take it that the consensus is that the piston rings are probably worn out and there is likely low compression and that by installing a top end kit, I can rejuvenate the RM250 and it should start a lot better?? Does the piston get eaten up or wear out after so many hours of run time?? I am referring to the quote above and don't quite follow..Is it the piston getting trashed or the rings??? How hard is it to do the top end?? I do have the Suzuki shop manual and it doesn't look too bad at all but, any tips or gotchas to look out for?? Thanks everybody for the replies.
  14. thekubiaks

    Guys, I need HELP K5 RM250

    What do you consider low for compression?? The bike is a 2005 but I'm pretty sure it has never had a top end job. Don't these 2 strokes need that after about every 20 hours or so?? I'll check compression and report when I get back home. Thanks for the replies!!
  15. thekubiaks

    Guys, I need HELP K5 RM250

    Thanks for the replies!! I think tomorrow I will pull the stator cover and have a look and then pull the carb and start cleaning. If that doesn't work then I'll pull the head. This RM250 is being a PITA. I'm not a Honda fanboy or Suzuki hater but in 30 years of riding I have never had issues like this with my Honda bikes. Even my kids Yamaha TTR-125 is being a pain due to a design flaw. The way the choke cable was designed on the TTR allows water to leak down the choke cable and into the carb causing corrosion which deforms the barrel. I had to replace the carb and rejet....
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