06WR450FSM

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About 06WR450FSM

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    Colorado
  1. Your point about legwork is essential. Even though the kick stand part numbers that I found for 2009 X's and R's were the same at Twin County Motorsports website (it's possible I messed up somehow...), I went to the local dealership and found that the X stand was only 12 inches while the R stand is 13.5 inches. I need to make sure that I get the right part number for the 250R!
  2. Funny you should check in -- I just some old pics of your bike as I'm shopping for ideas on a black&blue or all black makeover for the WR450.
  3. Thanks Yamaguy55, Indeed, the 250X and R part numbers are the same. The 13.5" length is perfect! The WR450 stand length is 15" and I was looking to lose 1.5"
  4. I'm looking for a stand for my motarded WR450F. The stock cast aluminum stand has a continuously taporing c-section most of its length, so removing an inch or two from the center doesn't seem feasible. I can tell that a few mods will need to be made to accommodate the 250X stand, but I want to make the length is right before proceeding, so... What length is the stand from the swivel bolt center to the end of the pad? Is the stand aluminum or steel? Thanks for your help!
  5. Just a thought: I am wondering if 2 quarts is way too much oil. Is it possible that something like the crankshaft is striking a pool of oil and causing it to foam, which then prevents the oil from being pumped. If so, very scary since no lubrication is occurring. I'd say drain the oil. Based on my '06, just 1.0 quarts is required to refill without a filter change. Then repeat the test with running only a minute or so to minimize the risk of damage if oil isn't circulating properly.
  6. Thanks, no doubt it will be tight and I'll want to maintain a trimmed case guard. OK, Driven Racing's catalog lists the same part# 2058 for both YZ and WR450, but 13-16 tooth range for YZ and 13-15 range for WR. So that tells me the 2058-16 is available. I'll have to research why the YZ appears to more readily take a 16 tooth, different case or no case guard, or???
  7. I am running 15/42 with 17" SM wheels on an '06 WR450, but want to knock down the rpms at 75+ mph. It looks like I'll need to grind away some of the case guard, but from what I searched, other people have done this. The only references I could find on buying a 16T was Baja Designs (I found nothing on their website) and that a XT/TT 500 sprocket has the same splines (but no info on thickness or offset). Can anyone point me to a good source to buy a 16 tooth front sprocket?
  8. First, see what the Texas laws are for conversion. Colorado is easy, without even an inspection. Next, find a gearing chart and plug in your transmission ratios, sprockets, and street tire size. Why? Because a YZ has tight gearing and may not have a tall enough fifth gear to be practical unless your speeds are pretty low. Admittedly, I commute 32 miles eack way on my WR at steady speeds up to 75 mph, but with 15/42 gearing and 17" tires, I still run 6200 rpm at 65. For steady cruising, 5500 to 6500 is good, but running around at 8000 rpm isn't. It sounds like your rides are short, but if your gearing isn't tall enough, you will have wasted a lot of time and money converting. I spent a couple thousand bucks in parts and a ton of time on my conversion, but carving pavement on a dirt bike is more fun than my previous 750 sport bike. Also, without a thermostat or fan, water temp can be way too cold a high speed or too hot at stop lights. I use a Vapor computer that includes water temp and tach that has helped me dial everything in.
  9. If the gearing is the same as my 2006, then it's pretty busy for an hour ride at 60mph. 6400 rpm may not sound that high, but at 60 the motor is under a fairly light load and there is a lot of vibration. A 15 tooth will knock the rpm down to 6000 at 60, which will help. I have put over 5000 street miles - mostly highway - on my bike. The 15-42 sprockets with 150/60R17 tire gives me about 5600rpm at 60, which is very comfortable. When I switch back to the stock dirt wheels, I prefer to go back to the 14 tooth on the front since I primarily do tight woods riding. Just leaving on a 15 all the time may be fine if your dirt riding is more open. An issue for highway riding - the water temperature is only 60F above ambient when cruising (I have a Vapor computer that displays water temp). So the water temp is only 100 to 150 F which makes for an engine and oil temp that is possibly too cold for running the engine at continuous relatively high rpm. Blocking half the radiator adds another 40F. I usually run about 85%blocked to get my water temp to 190 - 200F. You could just stick in a couple pieces of cardboard in the front guard fins while on the road, then take them out on the trail. I made white plastic sliding radiator shields that I can adjust on the fly, but then again I spend a lot of time on the road.
  10. Well, assuming that our engines are at least somewhat similar to that of the Yamaha R1, you should be fine. The R1 manual states that water temperatures up to 242F are fine. If you expect to run hot sometimes, I strongly recommend using synthetic or diesel engine oil because they handle the higher temperatures better than conventional oil (please forgive me for opening Pandora's box by talking about oil!). But if you change your oil every few hours, it may not matter what you use...
  11. I use the Vapor on my 2006. The water temperature feature is really important for me. I found that the motor runs too cold at highway speeds - like 100F to 120F! - so I block my radiator to get the water temp up around 190 to 200. I also like the tach for street, but not that important for dirt. Anyway... check out the Vapor. I switched to aftermarhets hubs for my 17" street wheels and also for my front dirt wheel. The stock 2006 hub uses the stock computer sending unit as a seal on the right side of the hub. Is that the way a 2007 is?
  12. Switched back to the 45 PJ (too bad they don't make a 46), FS 3 turns, and stock needle position - ran great out by the Book Cliffs. I guess it didn't need rejetting for cooler weather. I was amazed at how the one-step richer PJ and needle position killed my gas milage on the 63 mile RT commute to Boulder - went from 60 mpg to 40 mpg!
  13. Thanks again Eddie! I guess I'll run home and change the needle before heading to Grand Junction.
  14. Wow - Thanks Eddie:thumbsup: I live in Lakewood and commute to Boulder on 93 (love blasting up Lookout Mtn), occasionally ride at Rampart with dirt wheels. Do you mean Lean/raise (instead of rich/raise?) the clip (lower the needle) since dropping the clip (raising the needle) richened the midrange and may be causing the sputter/cough? I never had this problem until I put in the 48 pilot + 1 clip lower/richer on the needle. Maybe the original jetting was already best even with the cooler temperatures. Do you find that a 48 PJ is typically too rich for a WR450 at this altitude and that a 45 should be used even if the fuel screw needs to be 3+ turns out? I'll try pulling the hot start lever with the 48 to see if the idle speed jumps up. I tried disconnecting the TPS earlier this year but it felt like WOT passing power at 75 mph was weaker, but I found your other posts as to why the TPS doesn't work well at steady throttle, so I'll try disconnecting it again. Thanks again - I guess I'd better load up my tools and pay you a visit soon!
  15. 2006 WR450F, supermoto wheels, AIS removal & std mods, ACV blocked open, PMB insert, altitude 6000ft. Previous jetting all stock: 165 main, 45 pilot, non-adj needle, FS 3.5 turns out, 60-90F. Other than FS setting, bike ran "perfectly" on the highway or in dirt. (by the way - radiator louvers must be blocked on the highway or the water temp will be only 60F above ambient!) Since weather has cooled to 40-50F and fuel screw was already too far out, I installed 48 pilot and GYTR needle with clip 1 setting lower/richer. I carefully compared stock and GYTR needles. clip position 4 of 7 matched stock non-adj clip location, so put GYTR clip in position 5 of 7. FS now 1.25 turns out. Bike runs great during acceleration and has no hesitation or bog under any conditions. HOWEVER, it now stutters on the highway at 6000 rpm or higher at steady speed. Twist the throttle and it goes away during acceleration. It doesn't happen below 6000 rpm at steady speed. Is it the needle setting or the pilot? I am heading to Grand Junction for dirt riding Friday night so any help so that I know how to jet it before I load up and hit the road is appreciated!