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About ssyoumans

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  1. Yeah, I saw that one earlier today. It says left right side, not sides and only showed two pics of the fill (right) side when I need left. I think I am going to see what a place called Myler's radiator repair can do. Found them on another thread on TT. Worse case I'm out $8 to ship it there. Best case, only $35 for the repair plus return shipping. Thanks!
  2. There must be a half dozen different aftermarket radiator makers for YZ 250F bikes, but I can't find a single one for the good ole YZ 250 2 stroke! Pretty darn frustrating. I busted my left one up back in May on my YZ 250 and haven't found a reasonably priced one yet. Factory replacement for one side is $360!!!! Keep watching ebay, but rarely see one. Anyone out there know of any makers of radiators for the 2 smokers? Seems like someone could get rich making them, there is a market for them!
  3. ssyoumans

    KX 85/100 Water pump shaft gear

    Thanks for the plug tip, I'll pick one up and give that one a go. I pulled the powervalve cover off the side of the cylinder. It seems to be working, although I was a bit surprised by how high the rpms have to be before it moves. It isn't a gradual move either, looks like either it is open, or closed, not really any in between. I don't have a tach to know what the rpms are, but if I were to guess, I'd say close to 7000+ rpm. I've never seen a spec saying at what RPM the PV is suppose to open.
  4. ssyoumans

    Carb Jetting, Motocross Action Mag

    If you want a copy of the MXA jetting specs, 1999-2009, PM me with your e-mail address and I will send it to you. I just picked up a 2006 YZ250 2 weeks ago and love it so far. Here in GA @ 800' elevation, I've gone down on the main to 175 and stuck with the 2006 stock N1EJ needle and stock 50 pilot. Runs very nicely so far. Prior owner tried the MXA recommended N3EW needle w/o much luck and reverted back to stock needle. If the weather ever dries out here, I may run it through some testing to confirm his results.
  5. ssyoumans

    KX 85/100 Water pump shaft gear

    Also, what plug do y'all run? I've heard that the stock R6252K-105 is crap and to switch to a BR9EIX or BR8EIX. Which would have the correct heat range for the KX 100?
  6. ssyoumans

    KX 85/100 Water pump shaft gear

    Thanks.. so far, no problems after 5 hours on the new top & bottom end and advancer. The advancer shaft sheared and cut loose 2 of the balls and I think that was the source of the original catastropic failure. Even after the rebuild with Hot Rods bottom end and Wisco top end, I still don't seem to get the hit I would expect. Seems to really muddle through the midrange slowly until on the pipe w/o a significant hit like my nephew's 85. I've gone down 1 size on the main to a 135. I think next up is to drop the pilot to a #42, change the needle to the 3rd groove (currently on the 4th which is stock) - I think it is running too rich. I'll make these changes and pop a new plug in there so I can get a good read on it. Also, I need to pull the power valve cover and make sure it is operating properly. Any other suggestions?
  7. Does anyone have any idea why Kawasaki made the waterpump shaft gear out of plastic? I'm rebuilding the bottom end on a '06 KX 100 and I couldn't believe that this gear is plastic. There wasn't a tooth left on the thing, no wonder the engine blew up on the prior owner, it surely overheated. Does anyone make a better aftermarket part? Is this a common part to fail? I hate the idea of putting in a replacement plastic part (#13234A) Shaft-Comp Water pump. Why would there be ANY plastic gears in the bottom end?
  8. Has anyone tried to make this kind of an upgrade swap? Is it even possible? I hear the 2004+ SSS forks are really sweet and I hate my '99 KX 250 forks. What would need to be replaced and what could be reused? -Triple tree (due to new fork size) - yes - SSS Forks. - Brakes, wheel, axle, spacer? can I reuse KX components or will I need this off of a YZ? It would seem that I would probably just need a full YZ front end, but will a YZ triple tree mate up to the KX frame? Are the fork length's roughly the same so I don't throw off my geometry more than can be adjusted by sliding the fork tubes? I thought about trying to revalve my existing forks, but I believe they already have Race Tech gold valves & springs in them, but I don't think they perform well for my weight. I'm 5' 8", 170 lbs. I called race tech, and they said there is no way to tell what race tech fork spring is in there because they do not mark fork springs in any way. I have the correct race tech rear shock spring on it for my weight, so I have assumed the front forks are set up for my weight too (by the previous owner). I mainly ride in the woods and they are just very harsh over small rocks and tend to dive in turns or hard braking. I've tried adjusting it out, but no luck.. i've not ever tried adjusting the fluid, only changed it and refill to stock level. I love the forks on my '06 CRF 450. They are smooth as butter over rough stuff & don't suffer to much on the tracks at my limited skill level. Suggestions, thoughts?
  9. ssyoumans

    Where is the cylinder Size A, B, C or D stamped?

    Turns out my piston was stamped "A" on the top of it, so I placed an order for a new "A" piston kit and wrist pin needle bearing. I also found the "A" stamping on the cylinder! It is just above the KIPS cover that you remove on the right side of the engine. It is on a horizontal surface, not a vertical surface and is was a very light "A". Very difficult to see, you have to be looking down to see it, I didn't see it until after I removed the cylinder. The piston and bore looked really good. Not much carbon built up on the head or exhaust and the cylinder bore looked nice - no unusual scratches, etc. The rings looked good, and no rounding on the top of the piston. I will probably see if I can get a dial bore gauge on ebay or something for the NEXT time it has to be freshened. Now, I've got some cleaning to do while I'm waiting for my new parts to arrive by the weekend. Thanks guys!
  10. I have read on the forums that they cylinder size A, B, C or D is supposed to be stamped on the cylinder. I have a 1999 KX 250 and I don't see it anywhere. Where is it? I don't have access to a cylinder bore gauge, will a set of dial calipers be accurate enough to measure the cylinder bore? Should I just replace it with the same size that's in there there now, assumming it is stamped somewhere on the piston? I don't know a lot of the history of the bike, the last bought it used from a dealer. He hadn't ever rebuilt it. What do y'all do?
  11. ssyoumans

    How ofen to rebuild?

    Thanks for the info. I'll get some parts on order - I think I will tear into it and rebuild the KX for the added piece of mind. Besides a top end gasket set & piston kit and a new wristpin bearings, anything else I need to replace / do while in there? I think I am going to go with the ProX piston set. For my style of riding, I think the cast aluminum is better.
  12. ssyoumans

    How ofen to rebuild?

    I picked up a 99 KX 250 - stock. The last owner knew very little about the bike's history, he didn't ride it very much (had a wife & kids) hahaha. Anyhow, he had owned it for the past 2 years and had logged about 6 rides (all in the woods). He hadn't done any maintenace on the bike. He sold it because he didn't have time to ride it and it was just too much bike for him and it needed some minor work (fork seals, tires, chain, brakes bled, sprocket, etc). So, I got the service manual, compression range is suppose to be between 115 - 175 psi. I measured 140 psi, dry. So, should I rebuild the top end just for the sake of rebuilding, or wait until it drops to the service limit? I don't race, mainly trail ride for about 3hrs each weekend and occasionaly hit a track. Is hours (ride time) or compression the best indicator on when to rebuild. I've read on this forum people saying to rebuild at 30 hrs, others at 120 hours (for trail riders). Seems like a lot of people just say rebuild, rebuild, rebuild. Do people have nothing else to do but work on the bikes during the week? I probably log about 50 hrs / yr on the bike (I've got a 4 stroke that I ride the rest of the time).
  13. ssyoumans

    99' kx250 jetting

    I'm more in the bottom end to mid-range rider. Not really WOT that often even on the tracks. Some trail riding too.. which definitely isn't WOT. Crappy weather this weekend so I was hoping to get something done on the bike.
  14. ssyoumans

    99' kx250 jetting

    I'll try to continue / revive this thread. I've got a '99 KX 250, stock jets & needle, stock pipe, Pro Circuit Nature friendly sparky, elevation around 1000 feet. Plan on putting in a Boyesen Rad valve with the Pro Carbon fiber reeds. The Boyesen instructions says you commonly have to go down on the main jet as the rad valve makes the bike run richer. I feel like my bike runs pretty good now (good throttle response, crisp), EXCEPT, I do get spooge out of the end of my exhaust dripping down onto the swingarm at the end of the day. I have read that this is usually cause by being too rich... and not by the oil ratio, I run 40:1 using Bel-Ray H1R. I recognize Jeekinz recommendations from MXA magazine, but they didn't have the Rad valve installed..... so, how should I adjust those recommendations as a starting point. 1) Do either of you have the boyesen rad valve in yours and did you have to make changes based on installing it? I'm not to worried about getting the pilot jet and air screw set right, they are pretty easy to set. 2) The N3WK needle - is that moving me to a 1/2 clip richer or leaner.. because if it is richer, I don't think I want to do that after installing the Boyesen. Thoughts? 3) Trying to decide betweent the 152 & the 155 main.. any thoughts? I love my 99 KX250, I actually prefer it over my '06 CRF 450. The KX just feels so light and nimble, but the CRF does have it beat on suspension. Long live the 2 stroke!
  15. ssyoumans

    Who has a Harley??

    Bought it in May of 2005.. absolutely love the bike. They can be really fun, but just like motocross, they eat your time and your money! Actually, motocross eats more time and money on an ongoing basis. I really enjoy going to the biker rallys, such as Daytona Bike week, Myrtle, and Panama City Bike week.. good times. I like the size of the Sportster, it's what I would call an urban cruiser. Great for zipping around town or a 2 - 3 hour drive up into the mountains. It hauls butt and is very nimble.. but if you want more luggage/touring ability, get a road king or a Softtail - heavier bike, bigger engines.. ride smoother on the long trips.