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Kero

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About Kero

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    Australia
  1. I have the FCR MX 37 mm carb off a WR 250F on my XR. It runs superbly and punches out fourth gear wheelies with a 39 tooth rear, 15 front, on a 416cc motor with stock cam. Once it was jetted it needs no adjustment apart from a seasonal tweak of the fuel screw.
  2. Paid $200 for mine, second hand off a 2001 WR 250f, delivered to Australia from Texas. Made an adapter from 50mm pvc drain pipe. Starts first kick, runs beautifully, snaps the front up in fourth and I run a 40 tooth tear sprocket. Better fuel economy too, with 42 pilot and 145 main. I LOVE THIS CARBY!
  3. 10 years really?! Mate, get an FCR. I really don't understand why people persist with the Mikuni.
  4. Looks good but no air filter access.
  5. Yes this also happened on my mates 2000 model 400. I think you will be right to pull the cover off without having to lay the bike on it's side, as the oil inspection bolt is lower than the clutch cover. Laying it over may risk losing the broken part into the depths of the engine. Also try to keep tension on the clutch arm until you remove it. The broken piece should hopefully be retained in place by the ' fingers' on the clutch arm.
  6. The shims are on the bottom bolt in the fork leg. The whole assembly is about two inches long once it is removed. You can remove the bolt with an impact driver. Turn the fork leg upside down, put a rag underneath it to protect the little brass screw, and wedge the fork leg under your work bench. Then use the impact driver to undo the bolt.
  7. Mate I have a 37mm FCR MX on my XR . Also an 87mm high comp Wiseco slug. With 14/40 gearing I can crank out 4th gear wheelies. It's awesome.
  8. Yep they also come on XR 250L Aussie spec 2007 up. Priced some at $87 AUD each.
  9. G'day mate. I have a 37mm FCR on my 416. I run 45/145 jetting at 1000', needle is a custom stainless one so can't help you there but I reckon an EMM or EMR needle would be good to try. I think your jetting would be way rich at your altitude. Good luck.
  10. First I welded some lower tank mounts to the frame but then I found that if you redrill the tank brackets you can achieve the same effect. The tank is rolled forward more than lowered I guess, but it allows you to modify the seat base to reduce some of the kicker ramp effect at the front of the seat. Much easier on the bags. I will have to find the pics, thought they were on photobucket but no.
  11. Here's mine. Front is an '07 CRF Polisport. Rear is an MX style XR Polisport. Both are trimmed. Headlight is Aussie '06 CRF 450X. Tank is lowered and seat has been reshaped. Graphics are for '07 XR 250L Aussie spec. When I get the sideplates off one of these I will install the sideplate stickers that came with the kit. Not shown in these pics are the fork stickers. The '07 XR 250L. I want these side plates. Best price I've found is $85AuD each. The graphics kit, from MX Thailand on ebay int.
  12. Also, any opinions on Tusk kits (el cheapo) or the DP kits (dear but not as expensive as the Barnett). As it is an item that takes a fair amount of abuse I wont mind paying more for the best.
  13. Hi guys. Looking at buying a clutch kit for the XR4. Could anyone enlighten me as to why the EBC site lists different part numbers for the '96 XR and all the other models? Also, opinions? Should I just lash out on a BARNETT kevlar jobbie? Thanks, Mick.
  14. Yep. It was easy.
  15. HERE. AND