hausYZ250F

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About hausYZ250F

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    Pennsylvania
  1. I tried new stator and it did not solve my problem. Bike will still bump start right up but will not kick start cold. If I'm riding around the yard and shut off warm, it will usually kick start right back up. Bike runs awesome when running as usual no cutting out or anything. I'm ready to give up I don't know what else to try I have a new two stroke coming in at the dealer and I was gonna sell this one but I don't want to sell a bike with issues.
  2. Yea I hear that great bikes just wish all these issues wouldn't keep coming up I've addressed them all but starting to get old. (shift stopper, water pump, updated rod, now water/electrical issues) I'm gonna mess with it tomorrow and see if she kick starts or what. It kickstarts right up warm or did the other day anyways if no luck might try stator will see
  3. Thanks I've heard that too. How did you diagnose the stator?
  4. Yes checked coil input connections. They look good. Today kicked a bunch with cold start button out with no luck which is what I was doing yesterday. Pushed cold start in for hell of it and and it started. I don't know it usually starts first kick with cold start out
  5. Update: I haven't rode my bike since that day in the backyard been working too much. So that day after I bumped started I rode it around for like 10 mins. After I shut it off it kick started right up while warm. Fast forward until today same thing would not kickstart cold. Bump started right up and ran for a few mins. After warm kick started right up. Any ideas on what's on going on? Valves are in spec. I'm hoping just some water still not dried up somewhere so I ran it for a while today and will try kick starting tomorrow when engine is cold.
  6. Still wouldn't kick start this morning. Went to bump start fired right up. Now it kick starts after being run for a few minutes. I don't get it but atleast I cleaned and greased all my electrical connections now haha geez love electronics
  7. Different companies make hold downs that bolt on with valve cover bolts. I have the twisted development one http://td-racing.com
  8. Have and use twin air cover when washing. Also know of spark plug cap issue I have twisted development hold down piece. Will try bump starting tomorrow.
  9. Not exhaust plug. This is a water related electrical or sensor issue I think. Other people have had problems with washing the newer fuel injected bikes or so I've heard/read
  10. Bike ran flawless weekend before last. Before last weekend washed bike with regular hose(not pressure washer) and put in clean air filter in prep for next ride. Nike has not fired since. Have read about water related problems but I haven't had a problem with mine until now. 35 hours. Timing is correct, valves in spec. Cleaned all electrical connectors and put on dielectric grease. Gas vent hose is clear. I have good spark and can smell fuel being pumped kicking my ass off. Any ideas?
  11. Unfortunately I only had a couple hours on the bike when I installed the split stream unit so I don't have much reference to compare the clutch fade. I do know that I don't really experience clutch fade now although I don't usually run that long of sessions or motos. I'm running the stock yamaha setup for the clutch
  12. I don't do slow riding so I never had an overheating problem so can't really comment on that but I have the oversized hi flow split stream water pump and have had no issues with it although I only do local moto track riding. The piece is definitely high quality though that's for sure
  13. If you look on the parts fiche the connecting rod has an updated part # from the original for both the 14' and 15'...so maybe the new updated rod is better with tighter tolerance? I don't know for sure Haha I know I thought the same thing. Keep in mind though the rod is exactly the same size except for being every so slightly longer so you can still use the yamaha bearing, crank pin, wrist pin, etc. The only thing you're really addressing or changing with the rmz rod is gaining a tighter tolerance at the wrist pin so as long as whoever is rebuilding the crank knows what they are doing I don't see why it wouldn't work well. Also keep in mind they told me they don't think the crank/rod is really an issue at all for the average rider. They only had isolated incidents with it and each time it was top 20 pro level riders riding and revving the bike extremely hard…
  14. This is what I'm hearing from my local tuner guys as well that the small end of the connecting rod to wrist pin tolerance is a little loose. I believe the rod and pin have been updated for the 15's or so I have been told I don't know. My local guy says they had some of their pro guys running an rmz250 rod (rebuilding the crank but with an rmz250 rod) It's the same rod basically but .0005 longer so it bumps compression just a touch but the tolerance is much tighter on the wrist pin end and seems to hold up well he said.
  15. Agree with above. My suspension guy told me when i got my revalve these bikes like more race sag and forks higher in the clamps. My sag is at 110 mm and forks are 15 mm above the top clamps. Bike handles awesome!