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Vince_m_97

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About Vince_m_97

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    California
  1. Don't know if the washers will help the heavy clutch feeling, maybe a good graphite lube in the cable will help. The washers WILL fix any clutch dragging or idle problems while in gear though. My clutch pulls real easy, and I lube it every 2-3 rides.
  2. I have an 04 rm250, had the same problems, tried all the fixes mentioned above to no avail. Found a simple fix from the WR forum called the .79 cent mod. Go to the hardware store, get a package of 6mm washers, take off the clutch cover, remove the pressure plate bolts one at a time, place 1 washer on each of the bolts making sure that it fits inside the clutch spring, then reinstall the bolt. Do this for each of the bolts and your troubles will be gone. I promise. Doing this prevents the clutch springs from binding up allowing the pressure plate to disengage fully. One other thing, measure the thickness of each washer, you want .060 to .065.
  3. I have an 04 RM250 and had a similiar problem, Found a neat trick that wr riders do. I tried and it worked. Get 6mm ID washers from the hardware store and place them on the clutch bolts that hold the pressure plate. Make sure they fit inside the clutch springs. Seems thet when the clutch is pulled in the springs get bound up and prevent the pressure plate from disengaging completly. The washers give a little more room. My bike no longer creeps in gear. I can start it in gear and it also idles just like it was in nuetral. I tried all the fixes and this is the simple one that worked. Try it you'll like it. Make sure the washers are all around .065 thick.
  4. Hey, I reread my post and the 1/2 on the air screw should have been 1 1/2. typo..my bad. Today I took the carb out, checked the float, needle to make sure it was the stock size and to raise the clip one notch. Decided to try again on the jetting by moving closer to the stock position. 45 pilot, 165 main. Mixed 40:1motul 800 ( I figure it's a compromise between 32 and 50) put it back together and...Viola, smoked much less and the plug was a nice tan color. It does kind of crackle and surge a bit from idle to about 1/4 throttle with a slow roll on though, but much less smoke. Cracklin indicates a rich condition is that correct? Engaging the choke made it worse. I would have adjusted the air screw but I got run off by the POLICE. I'll do that next and get back. Thanks
  5. Daaanng! didn't mean to create a ruckus.. I've decided to go ahead and give the oil manufactures recommended ratio a try and jet the bike accordingly. I figure Susuki recommends 32:1 to cover their butts and I understand the bikes come jetted rich from the factory anyway. Thanks for all the feedback and everyone take a deep breath. Thanks again
  6. Sorry for the delayed respone, when I rebuilt the motor, I changed all the seals and the motor has about 20 hours on it. I pulled the side covers off and the seals looked fine. I also rebuilt the carb with a new needle. Eric Gorr didn't give any jetting specs but he did supply me with a book. I have been using the ride and feel method of jetting and the bike runs pretty good. In a earlier post I posed a jetting question to Eddie Sisneros and he said that engines with 265 kits to tend to need to be jetted leaner. How about the RAD valve? Do those require leaner jetting. Like I said in the original post, the bike runs strong, doesn't foul plugs,spooges a little. I'm just wondering how much smoke is too much? I have a friend that rides a 2000 cr250 who took it to the local shop and had it rejetted, he runs 32-36:1 and his doesn't smoke nearly as much. Is this problem just inherent in RM's or what. I've tried a few different oils and it still smokes. I'm concerned that I've leaned so far from stock that it might seize the motor. Maybe I'll take mine into the shop also, might save me some head aches.
  7. I'm gonna rant here so bear with me... I have an 02 RM250. I bought it while in parts, put it back together cleaning, painting and replacing everything that need to replaced. I spent extra attention on the engine, complete engine rebuild, 265 kit by Eric Gorr supplied with weiseco piston, bore for low to midrange. Installed a Boyesen Rad Valve and Fatty pipe wirh FMF shorty. Installed a 11oz. Stealy flywheel weight and G2 throttle cam with the "Slow turn" cam installed. I do mostly low to midrange riding unless I'm riding in the desert or the beach. Mostly low to midrange though. (I'm old but feel young and to scared to pin it on the steep jumps) Bike is the funnest I've ever ridden but there's one thing buggin me. Compared to othe smokers I see...IT SMOKES LIKE A FRIGGIN....COW PATTY IN THE FIRE UP IN MOUNTAINS TO KEEP THE SKEETERS AWAY...kind of way. and..SUCKS FUEL LIKE DRUNKIN BIG BLOCK. Doesn't foul plugs, runs strong yet the plug is still black. I run 32:1 Motul 800 per the manual. I ride moslty between 0-2000 ft Stock jetting ( I think): 168 main 50 pilot 3rd clip airsrew 1/2 I'm running 158 main 42 pilot 3rd clip( second clip seemed to create boowahh sound) airsrew 1/2 The bike doesn't seem to get hot, suggesting it is running rich. My questions are: It is unusual to have to jet this lean with the engine mods and my riding style? Would it hurt to continue jetting it leaner being that it is so far less than factory jetting? Motul reccommends up to 50:1 mix. Would anyone recommend that I jet for 50:1 mix based on my riding style with hope of less smoke? Should it smoke less being jetted leaner? I'm not a drooling envirowacko, but all the smoke don't seem right. Can ya help me? Thanks. P.S. Palins HOT!!
  8. Just wondering if anything has become of this as of late. Haven't been out there for awhile. Guess I just didn't want to stir up trouble.
  9. I liked this site. http://www.ourrighttopubliclandsaccess.com/ How bout a million motorcycle march...
  10. OK how bought this..anybody with a 2004 or later RM250, could ya go measure the steering stem length and width. that might give me an idea. Thanks
  11. yeah, I like the Showas too. So much easier to work on + they seem to be a bit more plush. I just don't seem to have the "NARDS" to push the KYB's on my 02 towards their true potential. I did revalve work on Showa USD's on my xr4 and..not too bad. I took apart the KYB's and decided to...just change the oil and seals. But dang...dey ride harsh. So I was thinking if I could get a front end off an 04 or above, I could revalve em myself and get them dialed in pretty good.
  12. thinkin about this doin this, does anybody know if it's a straight swap or not? Thanks in advance..
  13. Has anyone tried one of these tanks with USD fork conversion? I'd like to get one, but not sure if the forks will hit the tank or not. Any response is appreciated. Thanks
  14. OK, I really,really,really, want to run these things, I have never done it before but I do ride a lot of rowdy stuff....no newb here). My question is..can I just show up say...Sunday Morning..without a roll chart, odo, get a feel for the whole program, ride the course without worring about time..just so I can get a feeling about how these things are run, Call it a prep run. I do have GPS. Help!
  15. Good vid. look at all the "superior" bikes being run down by the beloved XR. http://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play?p=xr400+&n=21&ei=utf-8&js=1&fr=att-portal&fr2=tab-web&tnr=20&vid=1101464413