rogttc

Members
  • Content count

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About rogttc

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Texas
  1. Thanks for the replies guys.
  2. Hi all, Trying to find out if I can put an E-start CRF150F motor in older (03) CRF150F frame? Also, does anyone know if the heads are identical, or at least interchangable, on the two? thanks roger
  3. Both ends are equally stiff. Cutting closely spaced coils will increase only your initial spring rate. Removing the widely spaced coils will increase both your initial and final rate. The correct holes to weld are the top ones, not just for the reason stated above, but because you're looking for a large increase in rebound damping, much moreso than compression damping, which is the role of the bottom holes. hth roger
  4. Yes, you can do it in place fine. No need to disturb studs. Back off the small side cylinder bolt a bit first before removing the 4 stud nuts. Leave that one on the side very lightly torqued so the head and cylinder don't move around (and are thus less likely to damage the gasket -- though it's good to have spares just in case) Now my question. What is a TB115 cam? What company is TB?
  5. What carb did you use with it and on what size of "100" 110/115/120? Looking for a new head for a mini-motard used for roadracing.
  6. Where does one get these english instructions? thanks roger
  7. Agreed. The BBR springs completely overwhelms the rebound damping on the stock shock body. Marginal for dirt, and horrible for roadracing/motard. Works or a custom are about it.
  8. Could really use an axle and the linkage (but not whole swingarm) thanks roger
  9. Looking VERY much forward to hearing more from you guys. This Kitaco kit has been the biggest mechanical debacle of my life. Can't get it to work worth a crap. It does kick back on the kick starter very hard (as if way too advanced, nevermind that I have it as retarded as possible - on both the backing plate and the pickup) The bike I installed it in has been supplanted by another so I can ride one during the race schedule and work on the Kitaco ignition equipped one as time allows w/o causing me to miss races. I'd like to understand more, but will try the pushstarting routine in the meantime, just to be safe. I've never tried so many things w/o achieving at least some success.
  10. Hi Jon, > fine powder that mixed with the oil to make a mush. Eek, sounds like a pretty poor lubricant. Same oil and metal was in all your bearings, motor and trans alike, on these bikes, so I'd replace while you're in there. Will never be cheaper and less time consuming than right now. Plus, like you, I know how much it suck to suffer mechanicals. I've had two each while leading sprint and endurance racing. You don't want that again. Wastes your entry fee and gas money alike, not to mention maybe your bike. Good luck Roger
  11. Jon, The carbon has more to do with low-throttle mixture and oil control than with richness at WOT (assuming WOT leanness is what did your motor in) You always did run a lot leaner than me, for an otherwise similar config. Sometimes folks think a plug is dark from over-richness, when it's partially just a high oil burn rate. That means y ou're not as rich as you believe, and then jet yourself lean. At least mull that over. Is it possible the seizure was an oil pressure issue rather than a top end problem, given what you're seeing now?
  12. Just set it for best idle. From there, sometimes in or out 1/4-1/2 turn to get best throttle response, if you really want to tweak it. There is no right setting for a non-stock motor. You just have to experiement. Your current 2-3/4 is likely in the ballpark.
  13. Hi all, Just put a Kitaco carb kit (26mm) on my XR108 a while back. Works nice on the top end, but moving the needle up or down will either get me good upper midrange or good lower midrange, but not both. Even with the needle in the higher position, there's a small misfire when I back off a bit from WOT. With the needle lower (so as to avoid a misfire near the bottom, the upper misfire is worse. Anyone know what name-brand carb those things are a clone of? I.e. what brand and range of needles are available to tune with? The new 26mm definitely makes more pwoer than stock when WOT, but below that, the quality of carburation is definitely worse. Any tips on parts for these (also need a throttle cable) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Roger
  14. Hi all, OK, got the unit in and the wiring looks straight forward and self explanatory. But given the japanese instructions, I don't know how to time the thing. Middle of the adjustment range, or just what? Any info appreciated Thanks Roger
  15. I just received mine for my xr100, and as I'd heard, it's all in japanese. The wiring all looks simple and self explanatory via the diagram. The timing isn't though. Where do I set it? Middle of the slotted/arc'd adjustment range, or just what? I'm a bit lost here. Thanks Roger