Iride3reds

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About Iride3reds

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    Idaho
  1. I found a brand new Barnett on ebay for $130 with shipping a couple of weeks ago. If you have a little bit of patience you should be able to find one for a reasonable price. I should have replaced mine 4 months ago. Unless you can get a stock one for dirt cheap, try to go aftermarket. I can't believe how fast my stock basket got really notched.
  2. I knew it was time to replace mine at 90hrs when the oil filter had quite a few metal shavings. What sucks is when I tore it down the bearings seemed fine. The only visible wear was on one half of the connecting rod small end. It was grinding on the wrist pin, but only on one side. It kind of made me mad there wasn't something more obvious, but reguardless the connecting rod was shot. I ride it pretty hard so I guess it can happen, or I got a faulty part. Either way I now have a brand new motor.
  3. Yep, exhaust are towards the front. .011 in. = .28 mm .014 in. = .35 mm .025 in. = .63 mm
  4. Sorry, I realize the sprocket bolts on. I meant the piece attatched to the cam that that the sprocket bolts to. I'm trying to make sense out of why my bike runs right one tooth clockwise from being on, or starts like crap being right on. If it were pressed on just a little off this would make more sense. I don't know if I'm right, just looking to make some sense of this. I had an 04 and it lined up perfect, when I helped my buddy with his 05 his was right on too. If I wasn't such a dumbass I would have payed attention or marked it before I ever took it apart, but I didn't.
  5. Ok, theres two ways to do this. First make sure everythings lined up. Your exhaust clearance should be .011 in. The clearance between the decom. arm and the rocker arm should be .014 in. So if you add the two up it comes out to .025 in. Put the .025 in. feeler gauge between the docom. arm and the rocker arm and tighten the screw down to it. Or if your clearance isn't quite right on the .011 in., hold one feeler gauge between the shim and the rocker arm where its tight, then put a .014 in. above the rocker arm and tighten the decom. arm down to it. My bikes an 06, so I don't know if other years are different. Also, before I started buying the Honda service manuals I had no clue how to do any of this stuff. It should be the first thing you buy with your bike! It will save you a ton of frustration.
  6. Look at the pics in this link. That's exacly the same way mines off on the cam sprocket, but just a hair more. Must just be off on some bikes. Like I said, I heard the sprockets are pressed on so maybe they don't always get put on perfect. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about the being pressed on, but it could explain some of our issues.
  7. Are you talking about the decompression screw?
  8. It would kick over but I had to almost stand up to get enough force to kick it through, and I had to start at top dead center. You could tell it just had too much compression. My decompressor was right on too. I talked to my local dealer mechanic and he told me you could be off one tooth either direction and not cause any damage. I basically rode it an entire month like that and pulled it apart almost every time after I was done riding because I knew it shouldn't be like that. I did the straw in the piston and all that too. Other buddies ride the same bike so I had some to compare it to. I finally just moved it one tooth over because it was taking the fun out of riding it. Now if you line up the marks on the flywheel and the cam sprocket with the triangles, its for sure one tooth off. I've been riding it like that for the last five months 3 days a week, so it must be right because its still running and starting like it should. I was told the cam sprocket is pressed on, so I don't know if it could actually move a little? I don't know if this is your actual problem or not, just thought I'd give you another idea. This is one more reason why I hate 4 strokes with a passion, but the powers just too much fun.
  9. About six months ago after doing a valve job my bike was hard to start and hard to kick over. I pulled everything apart, checked everything and it all lined up perfect. Still had the same problem. A month later I pulled it apart moved it one tooth, even though it was off with the timing marks by one. I turned the motor over really slow just to make sure the valves were'nt hitting the piston. It started up right away and kicked over like normal. I swear these things just don't always line up perfect.
  10. The thing is about these bikes is it's all about how hard you ride them. I always change the oil every other ride with Honda HP4M. I check the valves every 10 hours. I did 2 valve jobs on my 04 in less than 70 hours, then sold it and went back to a 2-stroke. Bought a basically new 06 a year ago and did valves at 50 hours. Now at 90 hours I found metal in my oil filter, which turns out is my bottom end bearings. My 05 Cr 250 has almost 200 hours and I've only done 2 top ends. I hit the rev limiter more than a few times every time I ride. My point is if you ride them mellow they will probably be fine, but if you like to ride hard it's gonna cost you! Just my opinion, but I don't think it's luck!
  11. Not only have I done that to my own bike, but I've seen it happen to 4 other bikes. A couple of months ago we went on a road trip to Mojave Ca, from Idaho. Within the first five minutes of a four day trip one of the guys with us did the same thing but the hole was the size of a quarter. We used quick steel (the putty stuff you knead together) a metal spoon over the hole and rebent the shifter to clear. He rode the rest of the trip with no leaks, that stuffs amazing! We all now put about a 1/4" thick of quick steel on the case there as a preventative now. So when you get your new cover load it on so your odds are better next time. It's not pretty, but it's effective!
  12. I was at my dealer a couple of weeks ago talking to a friend out back. I noticed a used tire that looked almost brand new and asked what was up with it. He told me it was a 756 that came off a brand new 09 Crf450 and after only 2 rides three nobs in the middle ripped off to the cord. They contacted Dunlap and they said they would warranty it. Sounds to me like they like it could be a defect because I've ran plenty 756's and rarely lost any nobs, and I like rocks!
  13. A local guy in Boise Idaho started a group kind of like what you're talking about a couple of years ago. Two years and 150 members. It's through Meetup.com. Check it out for ideas, christiandirtbikers.com
  14. Went out yesterday and conditions were pretty good. We didn't hit much snow until we tried to get out of fiddler flat on the 317 and 330 trail headed south. Both had too much snow to go up, so we just backtracked out. Other than that the creek crossings are very deep! We only crossed the 400 trail once and it was a couple feet deep.
  15. They lasted over a year, and I'll buy another set. I looped on a really hardpack hillclimb and launched my bike. Landed directly on the handguard, but didn't hurt the handguard at all. They are way better than the bar mounts even if I have to buy more. There were alot of crashes on them. I put that on there to prove they would break before damaging your triple clamps, like someone suggested. I used the bar mounts for years and got sick of them moving so much!