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pileofparts

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About pileofparts

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    TT Newbie

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    yamisocrazy
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    owenshoe@hotmail.com

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  • Location
    Washington
  1. So I have searched, read, reread, cleaned, cleaned again, and basically I am at the point that I am ready to take the carb to the mechanic. I figured I would ask the question that seems to have been asked about a hundred times one more time hoping that I might get some help... Bike: 2004 525 MXC Problem: Bog immediately off idle I have: cleaned the carb Installed JD jetting kit (including AP pump linkage o-ring and AP pump spacer) Fuel screw out 1 1/2 turns seems to be about right Replaced a bunch of other stuff in the carb. Replaced AP diaphragm With the carb out I got the AP squirt dialed in. Ended up making a couple small trial and error adjustments to fine tune after it was installed. Dialed in the fuel screw a little more and had the bog nearly gone. It would be what I describe as more of a hesitation than a bog. Before if you had the bike warm, cracked the throttle to 3/4 it would kill the bike. This may be a nice safety feature but not exactly what I am going for. I have a couple new spark plugs coming this week that I am going to try. I will tune the AP timing a bit more and fuel screw but is there anything else that I am missing? The bike really does run pretty well. In real riding conditions I don't really notice it much as I don't think I go from 0 - 75% throttle frequently but the fact that it does it bothers me.
  2. AMainMaker, you were spot on. The throttle plate was upside down. Thank you for your help! Now if you could help me with this hole where my brain should be...
  3. That is a great idea and something I hadn't thought of. I will check that out tonight.
  4. Greetings, I am at a loss as to what happened to my bike. A few months ago my bike was stolen by some douche nozzle. I got the bike back with a few issues and have been working through them (broken kick lever, broken levers, etc...). I got a new kick and other bits and tried to start the bike. I was able to get it to start but only for a few seconds and then it would die. This behavior was very similar to when I had a bad plug in the bike. The bike had always run a little on the rich side and when somebody else would ride the bike they would have a tendency to foul plugs if ridden slowly. After replacing the plug, changing oil, etc... I tried to start the bike and had the same behavior. I pulled the carb out, cleaned it, checked all the jets, and the carb was more or less pristine (compared to other carbs that I have seen that have sat for a while). After reinstalling it had the same issue. I had a JD kit so I put in the blue needle at the third clip, replaced the gaskets for the slide cover and the float bowl. Put brand new jets in and gave the carb a good wash again. When installing I checked the float height and also installed a new intake boot to make sure there wasn't any air leaking in. At this point the bike is still insanely lean. The bike will pop and sputter with the following: 178 Needle jet 45 pilot jet JD blue needle at clip position 3 fuel screw out 1 - 1/2 turns The only way that I can get the bike to run well is with the fuel screw set out to 3-1/2 turns. This is very different than the last time I ran the bike where with the same jetting ran rich... I have an ultrasonic sink coming tomorrow and plan on putting the carb in there to see if something else is gunked up in the carb but at this point I am at a loss as to what changed or why the bike is running so lean. I have checked the valves and everything is within .001" within tolerance. The motor seems to have good compression and everything seems to be running well with the fuel screw out 3-1/2 turns. Can anybody offer any advice? Anything I should be looking at in the carb that would cause it to run so lean? The AP squirt is working great, slide moves freely, etc... it is just super lean. I am ready to rejet to where it wants to be but it seems like that may be just masking a more serious issue with the carb. Thanks in advance.
  5. pileofparts

    Moving to Seattle: Can I keep my CA plates on my KTM?

    Very cool. If that is the case then I am golden. Thanks.
  6. pileofparts

    Moving to Seattle: Can I keep my CA plates on my KTM?

    Yeah, I know it has been discussed before. I found a bunch, read it, and there is just a bunch of conflicting info. I have recently read reports that the state is contacting people and basically revoking their plates. It would really suck to sink 5k into a bike just to have the plate pulled.
  7. I am moving to seattle at the end of the month. I have a great opportunity to purchase a KTM 450 MXC that is plated here in CA. It doesn't have blinkers but does have a headlight, brakelight, and mirror. I was just wondering if WA will strip the bike of it's street status If I bring the title of there. I would hate to purchase the bike only to not be able to use it for the intended purpose of cruising some forest service roads and trails. Anyone have any experience with this? Pretty safe or pretty risky?
  8. pileofparts

    Handlebar height Question

    I also had the handlebar height issue on my SM. I purchased the SM because I wasn't getting enough seat time on my CRF. I installed some fatbars with an ATV bend with Tag clamp adapters. Now it is perfect sitting or standing.
  9. Greetings, I am a proud new owner of a DRZ 400SM as of a week ago and need some help. I have been riding CR250's and my hopped up CRF450 for a while and the DRZ is a pig in comparison. I have read through the posts and I am going to do some work but I am having a hard time finding all of the parts. Where are people buying parts and are there any places that sell all of them? I am looking for: K&N air filter and oil filter DJ kit for the SM (didn't see it at thumpertalk) Yoshi exhaust (is oval or triangle better?) cam int/exhaust E gasket (is this recommended on the SM model?) Other questions: Has anybody had head work done? Would porting and matching intake boot help? What gearing can I get away with for some more poop? 75-80 cruising speed would be ideal. I am already looking at about 1200 in parts would it be worth it to just step up to the big bore? How bad is it on reliability? Thanks in advance for any help and the forum is great.
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