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About flarityj

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  1. I have the big fins and the 4.0 gal IMS tank. It fits fine with an extra washer underneath. But: I did ride the just purchased bike across the Mojave to Texas with tank resting on the fins with no problems. You can read about it here and see the picture before the fix: http://flarity.com/burbank I also attached both tank sides with a little hose to use all the fuel. That is working great.
  2. I bought my XRL used in Burbank, CA and rode it home to Seattle via Houston. I stopped at a dealer in NM after a hot Mojave crossing and had him change the oil to 20/50 synthetic. The valves were still in spec when I got home and very little oil usage on the high speed rode trip. I have 12K miles on it now. Flaws with the engine are countershaft wear (because of no damper or too tight chain) and lack of oil cooler. I had (2) KLR650s and expect the Honda to greatly exceeded their life. I would still figure you will need to break down the engine around 20K miles at least to clean out carbon. It is still a giant thumper, air cooled, dirt bike. Some of the Harley guys will tell you they have 100K miles on their original engine and have no explanation why other owners started a class action lawsuit over the short engine life. You have to look at the complete picture. If you want a really long lasting design, you might consider BMW F650. Seems like the break-in mileage is about 20K on those and the owners have documented long trips all over the world. But is it a "real" dirt bike? Is the XRL? My XR400 is a real dirt bike and probably the most reliable ever made. I got 10K of hard miles before I had to tear into it and I believe that is entirely reasonable given its purpose. The KLR has a huge fan club and I run into groups all the time on the road. They are a friendly bunch and I don't mention my problems with their favorite bike. Honda seems to have abandoned selling the dual sport experience entirely. If they gave it half a try, I would be running into XR groups on the road. Also, two DRZ400 owners volunteered they were not happy with the reliability of their bikes and would never take them on a long road trip. That is quite a different story than the dealer will tell you. This I heard when driving my XR400 down to see the CA Redwoods several years ago. On this trip, I was somewhere on a backroad around Lava beds national monument and a guy in a pickup truck stopped me to talk Hondas. I convinced him to buy an XRL before they were discontinued (even though I was sitting on the XR400 and had never actually driven the XR650L). This was good for me because he had a good map and cold beer. And that reminds me, you will probably need a bigger tank too. I have both Clarke and IMS and prefer the Clarke. joe
  3. For a new DS bike, KTM 450EX. A real dirt bike that can still do 90 mph. The stock bike will beat everything else even if it had extensive mods. Many have credited this bike with extending their DS riding hobby when they were about to give it up. The percentage of Hondas on DS rides had dropped to almost nothing here in WA. Remarkable that Honda did not adapt their Baja winner to compete in this catagory. Japan Inc. might have a philosophy/legal issue with adapting a pure dirtbike to the highway, but KTM sure made it work and all the owners I talked with rave about it.
  4. I read other posts were some had removed the stage 2 because the bike would cut off like you hit the kill switch if you lugged it. With the stock engine, I could do turns on trails where the engine did not appear to be running and I can still crank it and pull out. The two strokes would have to feather the clutch to get around the turns and some dug deep ruts while I just tractored around. I don't have the skills to slip the clutch anyway because it is all I can do to hang on. The best solution would really be the Vortex ignition, because you could instantly adjust for changes in terrain, temps, altitudes or gas. They are more than I have to spend. DPR9EIX-9 is my Iridium plug. I would imagine any NKG auto house can get them.
  5. I ordered it from Schucks in Enumclaw, WA. They have different names in other sections of the US. Only $9.00 and I got it the next day. What a deal.
  6. I put this info in another post on timing, but thought to add it here if some else is searching for help on starting problems: The NKG Iridium plug made a huge difference--A two kick cold start. I used the colder version and it seemed to help with pinging also. I put in two more clicks of rich too. Thanks for all the help.
  7. I did all that stuff. The colder NKG Iridium plug made a huge difference in starting. I was shocked. They are worth the money at 10 times the price. Iridium must hold a spark better with the high CR designs. I also changed my sprockets from 16/45 to 13/50. Then I put two OZ of SNAP lead substitute in the gas (don't know what gas I got but I paid for Chevron 91 octane). Results: The engine pings just a little when lugging and then I can accelerate out it because of the new lower ratio. So, I might just get by if I use a better octane booster like Amsoil 2000. I read somewhere that is the third best and readily available and easy to carry. I hope to ride this winter and give it some more thought before tearing into anything. Thanks for all the help.
  8. Simon: How did that Votex work for you? Was it worth the $500 US dollars it cost? I would like one to control ping for various grades of gas. Joe
  9. Do you mean an offset Woodruff key like I see explained here? http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/TimingFlyWheelFAQ.htm Pretty neat idea and cheaper than a new head gasket. I always run premium gas, but I hear that varies a lot from station to station, so you might as well figure that you will need to run on regular at some point. I will turn the E-brock a couple of klicks richer and change to a colder plug and report the results for those interested. I hate to tear into the engine because it is so rare for me to get one back together with no problems. WHAT EFFECT DOES RETARDING THE IGNITION HAVE ON STARTING?
  10. Additional Info from Wiki: Engines with good turbulence tend to knock less than engines with poor turbulence. Turbulence occurs not only while the engine is inhaling but also when the mixture is compressed and burned. Also: Keep compression within reasonable limits. A static compression ratio of 9:1 is usually the recommended limit for most naturally aspirated street engines (though some newer engines with knock sensors can handle higher compression ratios). Compression ratios over 10.5:1 may create a detonation problem even with 93 octane premium gasoline. So unless an engine is being built to run on racing fuel, keep the compression ratio within a reasonable range for pump gasoline. This, in turn, may require using lower compression pistons and/or cylinder heads with larger combustion chambers. Another option would be to use a copper head gasket shim with the stock head gasket to reduce compression. Retarding the cam timing can also lower cylinder pressures to reduce detonation at low r.p.m., but doing so hurts low speed torque which is not recommended for street engines or cars with automatics. wish I had read this before my rebuild. Two things I assume from this info: 1) Porting /polishing might contribute to knock/ping. I have seen this proposed here and argued. Since I had my entire path ceramic "flow" coated, I would offer my situation for evidence to avoid porting on the XR. 2) This is some explanation for suggestions the stock cam pings worse than a stage 1. Why--it cuts the low RPM performance (compression) and works similar to ignition retarding. So, stay below 10:5 CR for regular pump gas!
  11. Nobody replied to my message (below) from last year. Amazing. I thought the technical TT types would be all over it. Anyway, as you have seen from other posts, my 10:8 JE does ping with stock cam, especially when lugging. What is wrong with just taking off the sprocket and filing it to retard the timing a bit? I could backfill the other side of the oval with a shim. As long as I go in the right direction, this is bound to help with pinging. At least it won't hurt anything, and the most it will cost is a new sprocket. I figured I would go a couple of degrees and see what happens. Any suggestions? Joe From previous post: It appears that calculations for CR are not that easy with my limited knowledge. I am putting the CT Racing 415 kit into my 2003 XR400. This is listed as 10.8 ratio with Cometic gasket (I assume to be like stock--.030" thick). I want to drop that ratio a bit to cover any bad gas. Cometic makes XR400 gaskets in 27, 30, 36, 40, 45, 51 sizes. Which one to use? Here is what I did. I went to the following website: http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html I put in all the information I know about the stock setup and got a chamber volume of 43.43. Then I changed the piston to 87mm, gasket to 88mm and upped the dome from 0 to 8cc to get the calculation of 10.8 that CT racing specifies. Then, I changed the gasket thickness. Using a .040 gasket shows drops CR to 10.5 :1. Don't know how valid is this approach? Comments? Also, I saw a post on the XR600 website from an engine builder. He said increasing the gasket thickness can spoil the combustion mix and a better method is to retard the timing. All help would be appreciated. This is an expensive lesson to learn by mistakes.
  12. I put the smallest Distanzia tires that would fit my Behr rims, similar to yours. Distanzia is an OK price and great for occasional dirt road. I have gone through several sets and continue to be impressed. I get about 2500 miles on a rear.
  13. I should put in pictures more often so I don't have to learn it all over again.
  14. <a href="http://s632.photobucket.com/albums/uu44/flarityj/?action=view&current=IMGP0827.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu44/flarityj/IMGP0827.jpg" border="0" alt="XR416 Plug after 500 miles"></a> I guess it could go a touch richer. joe
  15. I attached a shot of my plug after 500 road miles with my current carb settings. I see other notes about rebuilds and pinging. Upgrade should be using a colder plug. That might be a big part of my problem. Somebody else also suggested a Hotcams stage 1 cam alleviates pinging on higher compression rebuilds. And I see other posts that the Iridium plugs give better starting. I have a DPR9EIX-9. I will try that.