svttodd

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About svttodd

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    Florida
  1. Is there anywhere to buy replacement radiator fairings for my 2006 KTM 950 Supermoto that do NOT have graphics already on them. The factory parts from KTM ('spoiler' part numbers 6250805000030A and 6250805100030A) seem to already have decals applied and are supposedly 'varnished' over the decals. I am guessing that this means that the decals have clear coat over them on the factory part. I am looking for replacement 'spoilers' that are just plain black, with no decals. Please let me know. Thanks. -Todd
  2. I appreciate the jetting info Chuck. I have successfully cleaned and jetted several carbs in the past. I was just curious about the Chinese carbs since the complete carb cost what a jet kit and gasket kit would cost, maybe even less. I have also read elsewhere that the jets ARE the same on some of these carbs. Some people say they are the same jets and other parts, some say no, I guess it depends on who made the copycat carb in question. I bit the bullet and I bought one of the copycat carbs. The EBay seller has very good feedback, and the carb only cost me $26 shipped!!! The seller also claims that the carb is an exact factory replacement for my bike and should have the same basic factory jetting settings and parts as the stocker. We'll see. I figured that I would try it out for $26! If it doesn't work, off it comes and I will put the old carb back on with a rebuild kit, and I should only lose $26! I will let you all know how it works out. Stay tuned........ -Todd
  3. I just bought a 2000 xr200r for a 'buddy bike' and to putt around while marking hare scramble trails and doing trail maintenance. The carb needs rebuilt, but the bike starts, runs, and drives like a dream! It leaks out gas from the overflow, and I am sure that it also needs a very thorough cleaning as the previous owner let it sit for a while. Anyway, when I was looking for carb rebuild kits and parts I saw several inexpensive brand NEW complete carbs with throttle cable on Ebay for well under $40 shipped!! That is less than a carb gasket kit for my Husky! I am sure that they are not OEM Honda, but there are several for sale, and they don't look too bad. Does anyone have experience with one of the inexpensive carbs? Are they worth trying instead of rebuilding the stock carb? Heck, for $30 something, it seems worth a try unless they are total junk. If I go this route, what size is the stock carb, so I can match it exactly? I don't want to put a ton of time or money into this bike right now, so I was looking for 'cheap and easy'! Thanks. -Todd
  4. I am looking to have my two stroke 2009 Husqvarna WR300 rebuilt (top end, and maybe a bottom end if needed). I am having a hard time finding a reputable builder in the Orlando area. The bike is VERY clean, looks new, and it starts, runs, and drives great. I am just trying to get a rebuild done for preventative maintenance since I bought the bike used. I do not know the hours on the engine or if it has ever been rebuilt by the previous owner. I have a new baby boy so do not have time to do it myself. I want someone who will do it right. I LOVE my Husky! Please let me know if you know of a quality builder Orlando. Thanks. -Todd
  5. I had the same thing happen to a Ducati 900cr streetbike, and replaced ALL the internal gaskets, then a few weeks later the same grey oil happened in my VOR 503 dirtbike. The culprit was the oil. I got some discount Spectro oil in bulk, and there must have been a problem with it. It kept turning milky grey in both bikes, even after a few minutes of riding. Fast forward several years... just the other day I had the same problem in my Husqvarna WR300. I looked at the oil bottle that I had been using...I had mistakenly bought another new jug of the same stuff that had turned milky years ago! It had been so long ago that I had forgotten about the oil brand and incident until it happened again. The oil was Spectro 'golden 4' 20w40, and years later it was the 20w-60 that 'got me'. I used it as a gearbox oil, so maybe that may have been the problem...who knows. The good news is that the bikes ran and shifted fine, the oil just looked really scary grey after even just a few minutes!
  6. Well, I checked it today, and the bike creeps forward when idling in gear. I lowered the idle to where is was pretty much stalling, and it still wants to creep forward in gear. This is wierd, because the Rekluse worked perfectly before I changed the carb. The only mod that I did was the new carb. Now, I am thinking about taking the Rekluse off and just running a normal clutch. I kind of like using the clutch the old fashioned way. Or, I could leave the Rekluse in, and just adjust my clutch lever so I can use it like a regular clutch.
  7. I will check the idle/lurch and let you know.-Todd
  8. I just installed a new carb on my 2009 WR300, and I was wondering how high or low I should set the idle with a Rekluse clutch in it. The bike ran very well, and the Rekluse worked perfectly before I swapped out the carb for a JD Jetting Keihin PWK 38 Airstryker carb. I swapped the carb to help with some hard staring issues (otherwise the bike ran great before and after the new carb). Now the Rekluse does not seem to want to disengage every time when I let off the gas. It hangs up sometimes. I think the idle is slightly too high OR too low for the Rekluse. No other changes were made to the bike other than the new carb and idle adjustments. I do not know which model the Rekluse is, and I do not have the instructions for the Rekluse (it was installed by a previous owner). I NEVER had any previous problems the Rekluse. So... my question is... should the idle usually be a little higher or a little lower for the Rekluse to work best? Thanks. -Todd
  9. MAN, they just e-mailed me to tell me that the part in not available through their sources...DANG! Back to the drawing board! Nothing negative against Motosports I have used them in the past with great results, I guess the part is just hard to find.
  10. I know, it's been a while since I started this post, but I thought that I would give an update just in case it helps someone else... I had the gaskets all professionally changed, and everything flushed out. The bike was fine, and the mechanic did not find any tears or bad gaskets. I had the water pump seal done too (it has been a while, but I think I had the water pump bearing and/or shaft replaced, I don't quite remember). Anyway, shortly after I spend all of the money to have all of that done, I noticed the same milky oil on my pristine 1995 Ducati 900ss!!!!, then I changed the oil on my Husqvarna TC450 and guess what...same milky oil!!! So, I recycled what I had left of the oil(I can't remember the brand name, but it was from a large can, and supposedly motorcycle grade), and started with a fresh oil and different brand. No more problems! So, I must have had a bad batch of oil that was some how separating and becoming milky!
  11. Thanks, I just ordered it from Motosports.
  12. No, not like your guide in the photo. My bike does not have the headlight, it came from the factory with a plain front number plate that had a small black plastic clip type cable guide (not a circle like yours) that goes into a hole in the front of the number plate.
  13. I am looking for the small plastic brake cable guide that attaches to the front number plate on a 2009 Husqvarna WR300 2 stroke.The part number is 80A0 A4610. I am trying to find a place to get it online. It goes on the front of the number plate and guides brake line. I did a Google search for the part number and all I get is links to the microfiche parts diagrams. Thanks. -Todd
  14. Oh yeah, I do have an auto clutch too! Thanks
  15. Thanks for the quick responses. I will do a little more tinkering with the above listed suggestions.