Jump to content

ethosb

Members
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ethosb

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Georgia
  1. ethosb

    '16 YZ450 milky oil

    It is a fairly closed system. I think you are going to find that you will need to break the system down and will likely find a leaking head gasket. It is not a difficult repair if your are somewhat of a gear head.
  2. ethosb

    '16 YZ450 milky oil

    A milky color indicates water/coolant is being introduced. How is the coolant level? Isolate the issue and make repairs, then change both the oil and the coolant. Give the radiator a good flushing.
  3. Your setup should look like this. The larger flange nut locks the bolt down to keep it from shifting which is the issue you are having.
  4. Thanks, I feel better as that is what looked the most correct based upon the small piece that extruded into the oil filter area that the open end would fit over.
  5. Did the 1st oil change on the 2018 YZ450FX. I thought I had paid attention as to the orientation of the filter, but I now question whether I put in in backwards or not. I have tried looking at parts microfiche, but they are drawings and not photos. The filter has one end that is completely open and one end that is indented about 1/2 inch. Which end faces towards the motor? I could not get either end to attach to the oil filter cover. May just take it back out and see if I can find an absolute orientation, but thought I would ask here first. Thanks, Brian
  6. I have yet to change anything on the cartridge/piston assembly. Tried the link, but it took me to Clymer manuals homepage.
  7. I tried this with a small screwdriver and it is just as stuck. The clicker bolt assembly operates fine. Will tear it all down again to check it further unless someone has additionl informatio on the cause/resolution.
  8. Replaced the fork seals ('05 450X) due to one of them leaking. Changed to a heavier spring as I am 225 pounds sans gear. Right one went fine with no problems. Left left one was problematic from the beginning. The piston rod kept sucking back into the tube. Now after changing fluid for both inner and outer tubes the rebound clicker will not adjust even though the piston rod worked fine. When I disassembled it again and put the push rod back in, I cannot even turn it manually to adjust the clicker. What is going on? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, ethosb
  9. ethosb

    Draining the Engine coolant???

    Flosi77, You can drain the reservoir coolant with a wet/dry shop vac. On the top of the right radiator to the left of the cap is a black hose. That is the hose that runs from the bottom of the coolant resrvoir. Squeeze the retaining clip and pull that back down the hose (needle nose pliers work great), then pull the hose free. I use a hose attachment that downsizes the hose end of the shop vac that fit the radiator hose well. You can buy an automotive shop vac kit at any home store (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) Then just suck it dry! Once complete just reinstall the radiator coolant hose back as it was and you're done. It takes about 5 minutes from start to finish. Hope it helps. ethosb
×