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About BigJoeA

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  1. Greetings, I have the same exact set up except no hot cams. The light switch needs to be in the low beam or high beam position, the fuel on. I kick my bike over a minimum of six times slowly with the throttle off and the choke on, once done I slowly kick the bike through until I feel compression slowly and once I feel I am near TDC, I kick it over as hard as I can. Using this method, my bike starts very time on the first kick when cold, I just did this last weekend after the bike sat since December. If it stalls on the choke or is warm, bring the piston to TDC and give the bike a very strong kick. Once the bike is hot, it starts on the first kick every time. I never kick with the throttle open, always with the throttle off. Best regards, Joe
  2. BigJoeA

    Submarine service checklist

    The bike starts and runs with the choke on, but does not run as soon as the choke is off. By the way, I have an TM36 pumper carb. Other damage points are my Baja designs headlight is trashed, it appears the wiring harness caught on some underwater debris as well. Throttle tube damaged, throttle cables damaged, seat torn.....must have been a pretty good drop off the bridge. The carb is out now, I will be pulling the carb apart and calling Sudco for the TM36 kit and new throttle cable kit, throttle tube from the local Honda dealer of thumpertalk store if it is available. Drain and refill and drain again after the carb rebuild. Pulled the exhaust last night as well. Thanks for the insight....I will keep you posted.
  3. Greetings all, My youngest son rode off a bridge today with my XR400 and submerged the bike. My son's do not believe they hydro-locked the bike, but I don't see how they could not have. They will be home from the trip tonight, but called me from the road to give me the news. They also stated the bike will start and idle but stalls as soon as you give the bike gas. My question is, is a checklist available to start the troubleshooting process related to hydro-locking? First thing I plan to do is a complete carb removal and tear down Check the valve clearance and do a compression check Drain and refill the oil. Any other suggestions for damage assessments? How would one check for a bent rod or piston damage without pulling the head? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Best regards, Joe
  4. BigJoeA

    xr400 aftermarket exhaust

    Greetings all, I have both the Q4 and Powercore. The powercore had better throttle response, overall power and one hell of an exhaust note. I had to move to the Q4 to keep the sound meter happy, as well as the neighbors..... Q4 is really quiet, much like a stock exhuast, a little more power than stock, but not nearly as much as the power core. Best regards, Joe
  5. BigJoeA

    Powercore 4 help

    Greetings, I just switched from a power core 4 to a Q 4 as my bike was way too loud for the sound meters at the local events. I have a pumper carb and the typical gordons mods and when riding with the local crew, my bike is the second loudest behind a hopped up YZ450. The Q4 is almost as quiet as the stock exhaust. I did see a drop in throttle response and power from the power core 4 to the Q 4 though... Best regards, Joe
  6. BigJoeA

    Xr400 Stator Conversion

    I did the same thing two years ago. I downloaded the wiring diagrams from the Baja Designs website, and if my memory serves me there are two versions of wiring diagrams for the XR. The job was pretty simple and the wiring diagrams were spot on. My only issue is I used a moose 200W stator and the connectors were awful. I ended up reterminating the stator wires to mate to the honda harness, Stay with the Ricky Stator or the Baja Designs stator. Take your time and you will be fine. Best regards,
  7. BigJoeA


    Greetings all, I run MT-16/MT-18 combination, as they are DOT approved, if you plan on an enduro, you may need a DOT approved tire. I ordered a new MT-18 last week and the model is discontinued, but the replacement references the MT-18. MT-16/MT-18 combination works well in the North East, but they do wear pretty fast. My sons run the Michelins (KX250 2 stroke and a CRF230) M-12/S-12, and they have a very hard time on the rocks and clay. The broken shale chunks the Michelins very quickly. I do not receommend the Michelins for general off road in the Northeast. That said, all of the MX guys swear by the Michelins for the sand tracks. The enduro guys are split between the MT-16/MT-18 combo or the Maxxis on the rear only. Hope this helps.... Best regards, Joe
  8. BigJoeA

    CRF230F Hop-Up

    Greetings, My sons CRF230 has been fitted with a new 11 to 1 wiseco piston, a BBR exhaust, intake air baffle removed , uni air filter and the honda jetting kit. Additionally, the bike has been geared down one tooth in the front sproket and up a few (I can't remember how many up in the rear, two I think), pro taper bars (CR High bends), new fork seals and bushings, all new suspension bearings and finally, new tires and wheel bearings. The bike is pretty responsive and a good fit for New England woods riding. For suspension mods, servicing the forks with the proper oil and springs for your weight and riding style go a long way and make a very noticible difference. +1 on setting up the suspension first as the suspension is the weak link on the bike Best regards, Joe
  9. BigJoeA

    2003 CRF230 .... no spark

    I believe the coil is the ignition trigger coil that is part of the stator assembly. I am a member of an off road club and the local "engine whisperer", (the guy is amazing, he can almost troubleshoot bikes by sound and feel) reminded me that the ignition trigger coil has always been a problem on air cooled four strokes when the bike is ridden at high revs and low speed, thus overheating......typical of a youth rider. We did 36 miles off road yesterday and we had zero issues.... Thanks to all that have helped....now if I am going to keep the bike for the long term, I will need to work suspension as after all of the engine modes, the engine pushes the suspension... Best regards, Joe
  10. BigJoeA

    2003 CRF230 .... no spark

    Jon, I have been aware of the works alternative, but after dropping all of the ignition related cash, I was hoping for a less expensive alternative. I still do not know where the"pulse coil" is, unless it is part of the stator assembly. Best regards, Joe
  11. BigJoeA

    2003 CRF230 .... no spark

    Thanks to all for the information, after replacing the plug, the harness, the module, the coil, and finally the stator, the bike started right up.....stronger than ever. I have not ridden the 230 for a while, but with all the mods, the bike lifts the front wheel in second gear with no tugging on the bars and with a power shift into third, the front gets just a bit off the ground....nice One thing that I thought was quite poor was the stator ground stud retains the ground wire with a spring loaded clip. I felt uneasy about this as my sons and I ride the rocks and the bike will see its share of the ledges. I routed the ground wire though the hole in the stud and then seated the spring loaded clip, then I soldered the extra wire back on itself, in the same manner as a splice. Has anyone done this before or if you care to share what seems to work well for you, I would appreciate it.... Any shock information would be helpful too. Finally, where is the pulse coil?...I would hate to have a failure after doing all of the work. Best regards, Joe
  12. BigJoeA

    Fork seals - OEM or aftermarket?

    Greetings, Honda seals work best, I own a KX250 2 stroke (son number one), a CRF230 (Son number two), a DRZ125 (wife) and an XR400 (me) I replace the seals and duct covers every year as well as the fork oil, (on each bike). I have had several Moose seals fail after loading and unloading the bikes. The factory seals cost a few dollars more, but the only time they fail is when I scratch a tube.... Best regards, Joe
  13. BigJoeA

    2003 CRF230 .... no spark

    Thanks for the shock spring advice. I am told the shock is not serviceable, I have noticed a huge difference on other bikes when the shock and forks are serviced with new oil, seals and bushings. I was hoping to have the shock serviced when I brought the shock to the suspension shop with the forks, but I got a call from the mechanic who stated no go on the shock. I have heard the XR200 shock is a drect bolt on and it is reported to be serviceable.......Has this been done? Best regards, Joe
  14. Greetings all, Having a problem with my sons CRF 230, while on a trail ride, the bike just died, no spark. I had the engine rebuilt after the fall season, and I had been on the trail for several rides after the rebuild but before the failure. I have repleaced the wiring harness (found some chafed wires) and the ignition module. Still no spark. The spark plug has been replaced, the kill switch has been replaced, the battery and nearly everything else. The last two things that I just ordered were a coil and the stator..... The bike cranks right over, and the clutch interlock switch appears to be functioning as well. Any help would be appreciated..... By the way, mods to date are the typical mods, power up jetting, complete BBR D pipe, air cleaner upgrade, high compression piston, standard overbore valves, guides and seats. Cam is stock. Any advice on upgrading the rear shock would be helpful as well. Best regards, Joe
  15. BigJoeA

    XR250 - Broken Shift Shaft

    I had the same thing happen on my 2001 XR400 in June of 06. I had the local Honda dealer do the work as I do not really have the time to do that type of repair. I had the whole engine rebuilt while the work was done. I had all the bearings (cam, crank, rod etc), replaced regardless of condition, along with the rings, seals etc. The piston had one season of every other weekend riding, and had the dealer recommended replacement of the piston, the total would have been over $950 Using all honda factory parts, the total came to $870.00 with dealer labor rates. I almost forgot, I had the triple clamp bearings done while they had the bike as well. The local honda dealer has a great rep in my area, and I would really check the work of the local dealer by talking to other customers as dealers can have poor performance from time to time. I have since learned of two local shops who have strong followings and after several discussion with satisfied customers, I would not hesitate to shop the job to a jobber once the homework is done. My personal situation would result in a similar situation to Rman of 237, I could work on the bike a few hours every other week at best, and the job really needs a weekend with all the parts and materials in a well lit neat garage, which I do not have. It was costly, the wife was pissed, but now the engine is nearly new.