2ski4fun

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About 2ski4fun

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  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Riding, skiing
  1. You live in one of the few places that the factory jetting will actually work. My 250x wouldn't run correctly at sea level until it was rejetted.
  2. Did you ask the dealer to make any changes to the jetting? Have you done any other mods, ie airbox, exhaust? I would take WS's advice and adjust the fuel screw (buy an extended one if you don't already have one) I would also suggest replacing the pilot with a 42 and possibly rejetting with either a JD jet kit or buying jets through the dealer. It depends on the other mods as to what your final jetting should be. If it ran fine stock, you could always ask the shop to put it back the way it was. Most of the 250X's run best with the airbox opened up, the exhaust uncorked, 150 main, 42 pilot and 55 leak jet installed and fuel screw somewhere around 2 turns out+/-(or somewhere close to that formula depending on altitude and temp)
  3. The JD kit takes the guess workout of jetting. If your happy with the performance of the bike now, leave it alone and just ride it.
  4. I have the header on my 05 wrapped (DRD SS pipe) I checked the temps before and after on my TT Vapor. The operating temps are noticably cooler with the header wrapped. I usually trail ride the bike and it can get hot from time to time, but it hasn't lost any coolant in the last 5 months of riding. I don't think it adds any power? hard to tell the bike makes plenty of power with or without the header wrapped. The header tape does get a little ragged with use, but a roll will last quite a while. I use distilled water and a little Redline water wetter for coolant. I haven't experimented with Propylene Glycol coolants.
  5. True! It makes you wonder when a dealer gives customers advice like that? maybe they though it was a lawnmower.
  6. I think it's pretty nominal on the CRF. I didn't actually measure from the old to new, they advertise 30% larger capacity and that may be a stretch. Like I said, they don't show a great deal more heat dissipation than the stock by my observation. They do look good though! If I had to do it over again I probably would have spent my money on something else that the bike doesn't need.
  7. Unless you have to replace your radiators I would just stay with the stock ones. They do hold more fluid and are better built than the stock but you still need to move a volume of air across them to cool the bike. I have the vapor computer on my bike and notice a small drop in engine temp in most situations, but not enough to justify the price. You'll realize a better temp decrease by wrapping the header. The bike probably makes it's best power around 200F anyway.
  8. I don't have a problem with the bike overheating, in fact it runs cooler than it probably needs to. I just had some of the Sierra antifreeze laying around and was curious if it mafe any difference. The Redline is supposed to prevent corrosion and lube the system as well. I haven't ridden in freezing weather in a while, when I do I just use regular anti-freeze and water.
  9. Sounds like Snake oil to me? I think the money would be better spent on a JD jet kit. I find it hard to belive that a little piece of metal in the intake could make that much a difference. If you need more power, or throttle response there are proven ways to get it.
  10. I have the BRP sub mount on my bike with the Carmichael bend Pro Taper bars. The feel is similar to the stock clamps with the Windham bend bars which I had before.The sub-mount will raise the bar heigth, which you can alter by changing to a lower/higher bar. Overall it feels a little taller than the stock Renthals; which I like for standing, but not a hugh change. If you do the math it comes out pretty close to stock. At your heigth I would think you would benifit from a taller bar? The Carmichael bend feels a little wider than either the stock Renthals or the Windham bend (which are the same) so I cut mine down a little. I honestly couldn't tell any difference in handling, but you seem to adapt to minor changes very quickly. I would recommend a pad for any bar, and the sub mount keeps you from taking a stabilizer in the chest.
  11. I've never used it, but it's probably the same as Redline "water wetter" I use distilled water and REDLINE in my bike and it does a good job of cooling the engine. I'm going to try a 50/50 blend of Propylene Glycol and Water to see if it makes any difference. One thing that definitly makes a difference is wrapping the exhaust header under the radiator with header wrap. I have the Vapor computer on my R and noticed more of a decrese in operating temps from the header wrap than from the set of Fluidyne radiators on the bike.
  12. A JD jet kit is your best bet to get the jetting correct. If you don't want to invest the $$ start with a 150 main, drop the needle two clip positions and put a 42 pilot in it. That will get you in the ball park, you can increase or decrease the main jet size as needed (it's the easiest circuit to get to on that bike) and individual jets are only a few bucks a piece. Buy an extended fuel screw if you don't already have one. (CRFSONLY.COM) t-handle is the best.
  13. Kouba makes a good one, it's brass with a t handle. it's easier to turn than a round one and a little easier to get to. You can find them at CRFSOnly.com
  14. Find a new mechanic, he should have cut the seats after the first valves went South. Each set you put in will last about half as long as the previous set, your valve seats are shot and need to be re cut, or the head replaced. If your using OEM valves, you need to be replacing the springs as well, but I'd pitch them and go with steel valves, springs and matching hardware. You should be getting far more life from your valve train.
  15. I saw the bike today at Berkley Honda...very nice setup!