jaeger22

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About jaeger22

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  • Location
    Florida
  • Interests
    Bowhunting and making bows, Blackpower shooting/hunting and building rifles.
  1. Well your are defiantly taking the right approach and doing the research to figure this out. Unfortunately I don't have access to a wiring diagram for your specific model. Do you have one? I can give you some general information that should prove helpful. Again my apologies if I start too basic but better to cover too much than leave out something. So here goes. First let's talk about AC. Alternators output alternating current (AC) What that means is that the voltage (and resulting current flow) continually switch between positive and negative in a sinusoidal wave form. (like a sound wave) For household, power this happens 60 times a second (50 in England). In the bike it depends on the speed of the engine. A rectifier blocks one side and only lets through the positive (or negative depending on how it is wired but for this we will assume we want positive) voltage pulses. It is basically a power diode. This is called half wave rectification because the negative pulses are blocked and only every other pulse, the positive ones, get through. With 4 diodes we can make a "full wave" rectifier that lets both the positive and negative pulses through but flips the negative ones so you have all positive on the output. So you don't loose any power. These 4 diode rectifies are often packaged together in a single device like the example I reference above. They are very common. And very simple, just two AC leads in and two DC leads out. A voltage regulator obviously regulates the voltage to some predetermined value. For most 12V vehicles this value is not 12 volts but something in the 13.2 to 14.5 range. In cars the voltage regulator controls the output of the alternator but in motorcycles they are dumb devices. They just dump power to ground to bring down the voltage to the required level. That is why they have a big heat sync with fins to keep it cool. OK for those of you that know a lot about this stuff, yes I know I left a lot out, like the fact that alternators almost always output 3 phase power, but I am trying not to make it too complicated and that really doesn't effect things too much. I expect but do not know for sure that your bike has a regulator. It would be about 2 or 3 inches across and have cooling fins about 3/4 of an inch high. Usually mounted on the side of the bike just below the seat. In any event you only need one for all your LEDs. Here is one for a DR-350S on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/...=item5646e98a5f I would highly recommend that if you want to do these kind of modification you pick up a digital multimeter if you don't have one already. They are fairly cheap now and with it you can read what your actual voltage is and not have to guess. It will pay for itself many times over. If you do have one, read the voltage with the bike running and that will tell you if you have a regulator and if it is working. So the LED should work with the AC but if they are a little too dim, you can add the full wave rectifier and double the amount of light they put out. Good luck. John
  2. Interesting problem! But I am sure it can be done with some experimenting. AC and LED's don't play well together. They may work but at best will only light up on the positive half of the AC cycle and will therefore blink on and off real fast. The blinking may or not be too fast to see at idle. At higher RPMs, this may be OK but dimmer than if running off DC. But there is a fairly simple fix. Get a full wave bridge rectifier that will handle the voltage and current like this one from radio shack for about $3: http://www.radioshac...ductId=12625303 Wire up your AC to the two AC inputs on the rectifier and the other two leads will output DC. Actually a kind of pulsating DC, but you will get both halves or the AC power with the negative one flipped to make it positive also. Sorry if this is too basic but I don’t know your level of understand of electrical systems. I apologize if you know all this already. Anyway use the DC output of the rectifier to power your LED circuits and you should be fine. Let me know if you need more information. John
  3. Yes. I modified mine. For me the seat was a little too flat front to back and caused some back pain. Like sitting on a flat bench with no back support. I needed it to lean forward a bit, or slope down toward the front. I removed the cover and inserted a horseshoe or "C" shaped chuck of foam that tapered from about 1.5" thick in the back to nothing in the front. The foam was cut from an old seat and is almost the full width of the Sergeant and about 6" front to back. It gives me a little lift in the back and makes it much more comfortable. It looks like it was made that way at the factory. The only issue you may have is that the Sergeant seat pan is harder than stock and hard to get a staple into. You will need a really strong stapler. I used an electric one and had to do each staple several times to get one to go in right. PIA but in the end it came out good. Good luck! John
  4. Thanks RC. Darn, I wish I had known you were in the area, I would have loved to get with you and compare notes. As for the dyno, I would like to do that but it will not be any time soon. I am about to head West for a long road trip on the V-Strom. Coast to coast the long way ( Orlando to Portland OR) , and won't get back until late August or September. I am looking forward to the trip (my third C to C and back trip ), but I hate that I will not be able to play with the DR till I get back. Are you working on Ignition control? I would be very interested to hear how that works out. I think your kit uses the stock VR sensor and the two long teeth on the rotor so no need for a new toothed wheel. Is that correct? Love to know more about how that works. John
  5. I am using the TB and fuel pump from a LTR-450 quad. Also the MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor and IAT (Inlet Air Temp) sensor. I shamelessly copied the good work done by MXrob on his DR650 EFI project in that area. Here is a link to my original write up if you are interested. . http://www.thumperta...-project-dr650/ Let me know if you would like any additional information. Thanks,
  6. Well I finally reached a point that I feel like I can say my EFI conversion project is a success so I thought I would post an update along with a video of a short demo ride. So basically, I had everything running back in January and was riding it daily but continued to have the problem of intermittent stalls on return to idle. About one in every 5 to 10 times I came to a stop, it would die. Sometimes it happened much more often and sometimes less. It was driving me nuts. I kept playing around with the fuel maps and other tuning factors but noting I tried had any effect. And on the data logs, the pulse width looked good. What the &%$#@! is going on? The only thing that the MicroSqurit (MS) ECU CAN control is the injection PW and it looks good. I even installed a fuel pressure gauge that I could watch while I ride but the pressure was rock solid. It finally dawned on me that it was not the PW but the timing of when the injection was taking place within the engine cycle that was causing the problem. More information below for anyone interested in the details but the work around was to go to two injections per cycle with ½ the injection time for each. That solved the problem. The bike runs so good now I just love riding it and can’t stay off of it. Any excuse for a ride and I am gone! Video link here: For those that may be interested in the boring details I offer the following. Warning, this may be way more than you ever wanted to know about EFI if you are not a techno geek like me. First a little EFI background information. There are basically 3 injection timing schemes available with the MS and each requires different timing information. The best is full sequential which allows the tuner to specify exactly when in the 720 degree cycle the injection is to take place. This requires a multi tooth crank wheel like a 36 -1 (36 tooth and one missing) AND a cam sensor with at least one tooth. (Note, this what MXrob used and why he never saw the idle issue I have been fighting. ) With a toothed crank wheel but no cam sensor, the ECU knows where in the 360 revolution it is but it can’t know if the engine is on a compression stroke or exhaust stroke. But it can still do Semi- sequential, which does an injection every revolution with half the calculated fuel required for each firing cycle and allows the tuner to set the timing or angle for the injections. This what i would really like to get to. The simplest mode is Untimed Batch used with basic trigger. It does not really know where the engine is in the cycle and just fires the injection pulse when it gets a timing trigger, once every full 720 degree cycle. This is what I am using because I am triggering off the spark coil. In theory, the injection should not happen when the intake valve is open. This seems backward at first but in practice, most engines run MUCH better when the injection is done on a closed intake valve. The Theory behind that is that it allows time for the fuel to more completely mix with the air, helped by heat from the intake valve. For whatever reason, it seems to work much better. This is much more important at idle than at high speed. So in my original setup I was injecting right after the spark coil trigger every other revolution or once per power stroke. And it never knew which cycle it was on. There was a 50/50 chance thing every time I cranked up the motor. When it was on the intake stoke case, the injection was taking place just as the valve opened which is exactly the worst time. The code does not support doing semi sequential with my basic trigger but by going to two injections per firing cycle (one per revolution) I now have only ½ the fuel going in with the valve open and ½ when it is closed and it is consistent every time. This made a HUGE improvement! I am still trying to figure out a way to “trick” the code into doing semi sequential but I don’t hold out much hope. It is running so fine now that I hate to mess with it but there is that nagging voice in the back of my head saying it could be even better. . . .
  7. I don't have any big mileage experience to report but I have done two bikes. I had a DR-350 and at 28K miles I installed an oversize HC piston. It really woke up that motor! I put another 6K miles on it before I sold it and never had a problem. On the current DR-650, I installed the HC piston last November and now have 3 miles on it with no issues at all. I don't believe it has any significant impact on reliability.
  8. I installed the JE HC piston without changing the CAM or doing any porting and was VERY happy with the result. There was a significant increase in power and torque as measured by the ease of lifting the front wheel in second gear. I had the GSXR muffler and open air box before the piston install. I added DIY Fuel Injection after the piston. It puts a big smile on my face everyday when I ride it! I can't tell you how much better the CAM may make it but the piston alone is well worth it and provides a lot of performance bang for the buck. And FYI, I can still use 87 octane fuel. John
  9. Hi Tom, I believe this is a common issue when replacing this part. It is actually a VR (variable reluctance) sensor.As I understand it, the blue / green color is unique to Suzuki and maybe to the DR650. But the basic part is used on a lot of bikes. It is not a problem as the device provides an AC output. just try it either way and swap the wires if you get no spark. One way will work and the other will not work at all but do no harm. I actually put an O scope on the blue/green wires as part of my EFI project and the signals are just mirror images of each other. Good luck. John (Orlando, Fl)
  10. Thanks Rob, that is very valuable information to me. I think we have very close setups (JE Piston, open air box, and GSXR pipe) except I have the stock cam and of course no spark control. I will try dropping the Required Fuel a bunch. It is more complicated now that I am running the blended maps but I think I can figure it out. Are you running blended or still using extended table Alpha-N? Also I will have to rescale the starting pulse as it is a % of RF but it should be a straight forward scaling change. I just went for a ride at lunch and except for the fast idle, it is really running sweet. John
  11. I have the idle VE value at 15 and my Required Fuel is set down to 11.9 (from the 17.3 MS calculator came up with). I lowered it to get the idle numbers larger but they are still a little on the small size. Each integer step is about 7% change in PW. What are you using now? PW? I am in the range of 2.7 to 2.9 MS at idle. What idle speed are you at now? Does it idle consistantly? I rode this morning with the idle set up to around 1700 and also lowered the EGO min RPM so that would correct during idle. I set the AFR table value to 13.2 in the idle range. That seems to work great. No stalls and it feels perefict. Just a high idle speed and it seems to change everytime I stop. It ranges from 1560 to 1800. Just took a long ride with the data logger running so will see if I can find anything that could be causing the RPM to change from stop to stop.Othter than this idle issue it is running great.
  12. That sounded exactly right to me but I wasn't sure how to get that set up. I finally figured it out by using two tables in blended mode where the tables are multiplied together. I set the first table up as Alpha-N and the second one up as Speed Density. The top rows of the SD map from 90% load up are all 100 so it is just 100% of what is in the AN map or pure AN. Same for the idle area of the map . For the area in between, I set each column of the AN table to the same value and equal to the 90% load for that RPM. This made the tuning a bit tricky and the blending around idle was a PIA but I pretty much have it al sorted now. I put over 100 miles on it yesterday. But I continue to have idle issues. I seems that no mater what I do, I have to set idle high and rich to have it stable. Like RPM at around 1700 and AFR at around 12.5 or so. It is not that it will not idle lower, but it is erratic, and will often die when I come to a stop. It may work fine 10 stops in a row and die the next time. Not cool in traffic! Looking at the logs, I can’t really see any reason why it dies. Also at very slow speed and small throttle openings, it will sometimes surge a little even though I have it set rich in that area, around 13.1 or so. Anything above 1/8 throttle and it is sweet. AFR is always right on and response is outstanding. I am thinking this looks like the TB is just a little too big. That would explain the idle/slow speed issues but on the other hand, the TB came off of a 450! This TB is 42 MM as compaired to the stock carb's 40. I know that we should be able to run a slightly larger TB than carb but there is a limit I assume. Any thoughts? I know this was directed at great08 but FYI, I was able to get a really nice MAP signal just using the filter in MSextra. I set to do 4 samples per event and "MAP sample angle" to 60 degrees. The MAP averaging lag factor is set to 50%. No real logic to it I just played around with the values while watching the Tunner Studio display until I got the best looking signal with minium lag values. At idle I get right at 31 kPa, but on decel to idle it will drop into the mid 20's. John
  13. OK now I get it! And anytime you go through THAT much water, I totally agree that changing the oil is cheap insurance.
  14. Yes quite insane! IMHO a complete waste of money and good oil. Why would you do this.
  15. It has been a couple of years but I replaced my DR-350 cam chain as part of a top-end rebuild and I did not go into the bottom end. You do have take the clutch cover off and pull the clutch to replace the chain. However in most cases this should not be nessary unless the chain gets jammed by turning the crank while the chain is down in there, you can just reach in with a hooked wire and lift it out. No worry.