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About AngryShawn

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    Motorcycles, what else?

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  1. AngryShawn

    XR600 Wheel Set

    Time Left: 20 days and 14 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I have a nice set from a 97 honda xr600r all boxed up and ready to go. These should fit all late model XR600Rs, and probably XR650L and I'd bet other displacement XR models, though I recommend doing your homework, as always. They could use a little cleanup, but are otherwise ready to bolt up and go. Can't vouch for the condition of the bearings though they do spin freely. I can include axles as well as a bonus if you like. $300 gets you the front and rear wheels with brake rotors in good condition. Happy to ship at buyers expense. Located about an hour north of San Francisco if you want/can pick up locally I'd be happy to meet you somewhere.


    Rohnert Park, California - US

  2. AngryShawn

    Dear Proofreader - You Had One Job!

    Its an ad for DID chains, the folks at the mag generally don't proof ad content for customers...
  3. US Chrome is another option for replating, had them do a YZ250 cylinder for me and was pleased with the results. They also offer an AMA member discount as well. http://www.usnicom.com/DirtBike/CylinderPlating
  4. AngryShawn

    250cc XR-ish Smoking Issue

    I'll bet its an intake snorkel, you can see the exhaust on the right side of the head
  5. AngryShawn

    New head

    When I built up my X for BITD I went with the 02R cam and stock X head and got the stage 3 port and polish job by Paul at http://www.asracinginc.com/. After speaking with Paul at length about what I wanted to get out of my build, this was his recommendation and I'm very happy with the performance. If anything, its worth sending him an email to get another opinion, he was really good to work with.
  6. AngryShawn

    00 XR650R - Pro Tips

    When I had my XRR, and was doing similar research, I found that the stock header with the white brothers E series muffler was the most commonly recommended combination, aside from just uncorking the stock system. These bikes have tons of torque in stock form, I found that throwing my wallet at the motor didn't make enough of a difference to justify the expenditure, at least for my level of riding. I have used the Edelbrock and Mikuni TM-40 and much preferred the TM-40 from a seat of the pants perspective.
  7. AngryShawn

    00 XR650R - Pro Tips

    Lots of great info in this thread! When I researched updating the suspension on mine to newer forks, I encountered a ton of opinions, as to be expected. From 'Its the best thing ever' to 'if you do this it will cause chronic diarrhea'. I came to the conclusion that for me, it would be strictly for the bling factor, as I am of the opinion that all the bike's components were designed to work together, and adding different suspension would mainly drain my wallet. On the other side of the argument, from a practical standpoint, there are spacers you can get to adapt CRF based rear wheels to the XRR, and in that case, a front end suspension swap helps to keep the wheel sets consistent. Plus there are a lot more CRF wheels running around these days than XRR wheels, especially if you want to run a set of 17s for street duty, which is a blast! The suspension on these bikes is easy to work on yourself, use the Bornyak shim info and you are inclined and you'll be a happy fellow. These bikes were not made to be jumped so adjust your expectations accordingly. Blasting across the dez on an XRR with good suspension will put a wide smile on your face. A DIY oil sight tube is also a nice and functional mod. You can rewind the stator yourself for extra power, trying to ride with it stock at night is an adventure. Vonkas hit the nail on the head IMO, ride, mod as necessary, repeat. Ride that BRP like it was meant to be ridden!
  8. AngryShawn

    00 XR650R - Pro Tips

    I owned and raced a modded XRR in BITD (pumper carb - mikuni tm-40 was better IMO than the edelbrock, hotcam stage 1, high compression piston, vented airbox, WB E series slip on with stock header) and from the seat of the pants dyno, my buddies bone stock XRR was damn close on everything but a WFO dry lakebed. If I was in your shoes, I'd save the money on the performance mods, the bike has it in spades, spend that money on suspension tuning and go ride! Getting the bike plated in CA is legally impossible these days, better to just purchase one that has already been plated. Thats NOT to say it cant be done, however doing so requires 'creative' paperwork that may or may not get audited at some point in the future. Beware of anyone on CL claiming to 'street legal your dirtbike'... Dont bother with the e-start, these bikes will start just fine if you follow the well documented steps in this thread.
  9. AngryShawn

    Cow Mountain Closure?

    Cow is open again
  10. AngryShawn

    Any good repair shops on the SF Peninsula?

    I'd recommend checking with the folks over on http://southbayriders.com/ for suggestions as well, lots of folks on that board from your area and south.
  11. AngryShawn

    Santa Cruz County

    Check out http://www.southbayriders.com as well
  12. AngryShawn

    cow bell enduro, saterday, upperlake

    If everything works out I'll be there riding a pea shooter yz125 in the old school class, unfortunately my 250x is down with some sort of problem i've not been able to fully diagnose
  13. AngryShawn

    My bike decided to start running like crap, help!

    Thanks guys. Totally agree on trying to avoid creating new problems! The frustrating thing is that I have changed out jets as I've accumulated the 'big box o' jets' over the years. They all look clear when compared and the passages in the carb flow both air and carb cleaner freely. I'll have to check my maintenance log for hours on rings/piston but if memory serves me right its in the 60hr range.
  14. I've owned my 04 250x for quite a while and its always been a good and reliable runner. Its been lightly modded and I try to maintain it by the book/hour meter, in particular the motor set up is as follows: KW SS valve conversion Full R top end (cylinder/piston/head/cam) PC full Ti System with quiet core For some reason, it decided to start running very poorly, here are they symptoms: starts easily when cold on the button or kicker, but is difficult to start warm (it will start but it takes a bunch of cranking with the button or several strong kicks) idles high and does not settle in to normal idle despite tweaking with the idle screw dies/cuts out for no discernible reason when you crack the throttle there is a huge blubbering bog I thought that some crud may have gotten in to the pilot circuit, but alas that does not seem to be the problem. Here is what I've done so far in terms of diagnostics, unfortunately the above symptoms persist: checked valves - exhaust in spec, intake are .004 brand new plug thoroughly cleaned the carb, twice (using carb cleaner and compressed air) replaced the pilot jet with a spare of the same size swapped out the carb with a spare carb i had in my parts bin, using completely different jets of the same size swapped jets and tried 40 and 42 pilots tweaking with the mixture screw drained the tank and used fresh fuel confirmed that the fuel line has no obstructions My next steps are to do a leakdown test but I need to get a 10mm adapter for my tester My only thoughts at this point are that the rings are on their way out, but I want to do the leakdown first before i open up the top end, I've got a faint hope that there is something simple that I'm missing I'm curious if anyone has experienced a similar solution and what ended up being the cause or if you can think of anything i may have missed or should try... Thanks!