drive01

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About drive01

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  1. If you want to do it on the cheap, on my 2011, i rebuilt the steering stabilizer using 30w oil, and turn the adjuster all the way in. That made a decent difference. I just recently picked up a 2013 and when I rode it, i noticed it had a tad bit of head shake. So i'll be doing the same to this new one.
  2. California

    Anyone know anything about Lucas oil MX track? (formerly Starwest) They haven't updated their website in months, and every time i go there, its open. So i went there yesterday 7/21 and they were closed. I saw an earthmover sitting there, the track has been mowed down, and there was giant mounds of dirt everywhere. Ended up going to Elsinore. But anyway, when i got home, i poked around, found some info under the "information" tab of their website saying its under remodel and will have a re-grand opening shortly. Also found this on Vital MX http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/Lucas-oil-mx-park,1257470 Hope the info is true. I hate having one less place to ride.
  3. I try my hardest to not leave my rims out in the street where someone could take them away. ok, just kidding. You meant, how do you keep your rims black, right? in other words, how do you keep from scratching up your black rims while changing tires? Motion Pro sells these http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0357/ you move them around to where you would be using the tire iron against the rim. I don't know how well they work, i've only seen my friend buy them. I haven't had a problem with scratching my rims, just be extra careful. Granted you have done it enough that your good at it. good luck!
  4. as easy as it may seem, I have a question. While tightening chain, you must must also align the wheel to be straight. I found this vid that transworld just posted. http://motocross.transworld.net/1000092076/features/how-to-presented-by-bikebanditcom-chain-maintenance/ And I noticed that he measured the axle block to the swing arm. Please correct me if im wrong, because I don't know how the manufacture tools up the swing arm for welding, but from my experience, non of my bikes' swing arm has been accurately symetrical. To illustrate, I had an 07 YZ450, and when i aligned the axle blocks to the tick marks, my chain wore ridiculously fast. Out of suspicion I measured for straightness (measured from axle to front swing arm bolt, and used a straight edge to eyeball the alignment of the rear sprocket) and one side was over .150" longer than the other side. I know the best way to align the wheel is to measure dead center of teh front swing arm pivot bolt, to the center of the rear axle on both ends. They sell tools for that, but its pricey. (geared mostley for street bikes where alignment is a bigger deal) they also sell chain alignment tools for $20(ebay)-$25 that lets you eyeball the alignment. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/4876/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Chain-Alignment-Tool.aspx Does anyone know the best way? or how the manufacturer tool the swing arm for accuracy? Maybe that YZ happened to be a fluke? I think i'll invest $20 bux for the eyeballing alignment tool for a piece of mind.
  5. I posted it in the health and fitness in the General Forums section, but because the categories in the Main page is so broad, this discussion might be a bit null there. So'll post it here instead, since this forum is geared to track-only MX'ers. Just some info since Google search on this is pretty useless. This is geared for those of you that have good medical insurance. Otherwise I would just buy asterisks or equivalent. If you want a set, this is how it works. Give them a call. Used to be Innovation Sports, now its owned by Ossur. 800-233-6263. Its in Foothill Ranch CA. you can see the Oakley factory from there. Tell them you ride and want/need a set. They will refer you to a Dr who they are used to working with in your area. You go see the doc, tell him your knee hurts to walk after you ride. (the way you describe it is critical. You can’t say you need it to ride, you need to complain about your daily struggles) Usually, he’ll know the routine, and he’ll write you up a prescription. The doc will refer you to an orthopedic place that’s where they will verify insurance (do not proceed until you know how much out of pocket you’ll be paying, the orthopedic place will tell you) and measure you for the braces. And that’s it. Depending on how good coverage is and your deductable, you may be a couple hundred to nothing. I know it seems like an insurance scam, but that’s how the medical industry works. This all came about cause I’m trying to get mine refurbished, and found no info online. (Over time, the braces loosen up and have play in the hinge) They told me insurance won’t cover it. You can send it directly to Ossure and they do a complete refurb to almost new, fresh paint, new straps, everything for $210 ea.
  6. Just some info since Google search on this is pretty useless. This is geared for those of you that have good medical insurance. Otherwise I would just buy asterisks or equivalent. If you want a set, this is how it works. Give them a call. Used to be Innovation Sports, now its owned by Ossur. 800-233-6263. Its in Foothill Ranch CA. you can see the Oakley factory from there. Tell them you ride and want/need a set. They will refer you to a Dr who they are used to working with in your area. You go see the doc, tell him your knee hurts to walk after you ride. (the way you describe it is critical. You can’t say you need it to ride, you need to complain about your daily struggles) Usually, he’ll know the routine, and he’ll write you up a prescription. The doc will refer you to an orthopedic place that’s where they will verify insurance (do not proceed until you know how much out of pocket you’ll be paying, the orthopedic place will tell you) and measure you for the braces. And that’s it. Depending on how good coverage is and your deductable, you may be a couple hundred to nothing. I know it seems like an insurance scam, but that’s how the medical industry works. This all came about cause I’m trying to get mine refurbished. Over time, the braces loosen up and have play in the hinge. They told me insurance won’t cover it. You can send it directly to Ossure and they do a complete refurb to almost new, fresh paint, new straps, everything for $210 ea.
  7. here's what motocross action says. http://www.motocrossactionmag.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=news&mod=News&mid=9A02E3B96F2A415ABC72CB5F516B4C10&tier=3&nid=A7D270A8DE0C4FBAA2C47F016510DB78 Just take it for what its worth, none of it is MUST buy. I think some of it is a bit over board, like spending $500+ for a full set of triple clamps. Some definites are: new front tire, rear axle nut from a CR450, and the radiator cap. All pretty cheap. I got my suspension redone, and now I definitely don't need the trip clamp or PC linkage. I was expecting to need a chain guide sooner, but its holding up well, and i have 50+ hrs on track only. I just keep a good eye on the chain tension. Like someone said, just run it a bit tighter. Oh yeah, clean your oil screen. looks like the majority of people see a lot of crap clogging it. Granted, I went over 30 hrs with it clogged with no problems.
  8. I got the stainless tubing with Carbon can. Its a really nice exhaust. It added a touch of power across the entire rpm. Really smooth and predictable. Definitely sounds a lot better now. Before this bike, i had a 07 yz450, with a Yosh. My friend had the same bike with the DRD, and i liked the DRD much better. I ride track only.
  9. When adding oil through the bleeder, although it does seem like your adding to the inner chamber, you actually adding to the outer. This is where you want to add the oil to increase bottoming resistance. Remember, you're adding through where you bleed excess air out. And so therefore you're displacing the air in that chamber with oil = correct chamber. Yes, this controls the harshness at the bottom of the stroke. The air in your forks (outer chamber) is acts as an air "spring". The less air you have in there to compress, the harder it will be. Thats why adding the oil in place of the air makes it harder. I hope this makes sense. And you are right, the inner and out chambers do not mix.
  10. I would start buy buying a set of good aftermarket pads. EBC or Braking. ($20-30) That usually does the trick for me. And be patient, it'll take a few rides for the pads to break in properly and then it'll start working well. But if you got the money, get a nice big rotor kit. Without a doubt, they work, i've ridden friends bikes w/ kits, and to me its a bit overkill, but at that point, its all preference.
  11. The easiest way to add a little bit (for example, you want to add 5 or 10 cc's cause your forks bottom easily) is to buy a food grade syringe from your local drug store. Try to get one with the mL or cc graduations marked on it. load it up w/ fork fluid, and inject it into your bleeder hole. To clean the seal without pulling your forks apart: use a card, from a deck of cards, wrap it around the lower fork leg, grab it with your fist, have a corner point up towards the upper tube (just make sure your not trying to shove a whole straight edge of the card into the seal). Stick it far enough in so it gets to the oil seal (if you want just pry down the dust seal and then do this) once its in far enough, slide the card all the way around the seal, to clear out any dirt that may be stuck. But if your fork seal keeps leaking that often, most likely you got a nick in your fork sliders. very carefully check for any small nicks. If you do have one, put masking tape around the nick, so just expose the damaged section. use fine sandpaper, 1000-1200 grit, and carefully polish just the exposed damaged area. Don't over do it, otherwise you'll rub off too much chrome (coating in our case). remove the masking tape and it should be smooth to the touch. Good luck
  12. Here's a pic Unfortunately the fly wheel puller for Hondas is different than Kawis, so i wasn't able to clean it. But I did get a picture for you guys
  13. I just got one recently too. Found this article. Its a good baseline http://www.motocrossactionmag.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=news&mod=News&mid=9A02E3B96F2A415ABC72CB5F516B4C10&tier=3&nid=A7D270A8DE0C4FBAA2C47F016510DB78
  14. Save yourself the hours of frustration, and possible cut up hands. Just buy a new tube, its about $13 for a new throttle tube (for an aftermarket plastic one. OEM or billet is more). I know for sure, Yamaha shares the exact same throttle tube as Kawi, and probably the other manufactures too. It'll be the best 13 bux spent if you've ever tried to remove a Kawi or Suzuki throttle grip!
  15. MXA recommendations: 10 best mods http://www.motocrossactionmag.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=news&mod=News&mid=9A02E3B96F2A415ABC72CB5F516B4C10&tier=3&nid=A7D270A8DE0C4FBAA2C47F016510DB78 Here's the quick list: 22mm offset trip clamps for better steering PC rear shock linkage for better rear actuation 51 or 52 teeth rear sprocket for better gearing 1.8bar radiator cap for better cooling better chain guide cotter pin less rear axle nut from crf450 Enzo preload ring for easier rear shock preload adjust New/better front tire. stock one sucks Suspension settings front and rear For more details, please see the link