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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

SSHANK42

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About SSHANK42

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    Ohio
  1. Think you hit the nail on the head Mx. There was an extra cable tie near the steering stem. Not now. Thanks.
  2. It was the yellow/green wire in the main wiring harness. In same spot as the other 2 had broken, right were it passes the steering head. So 3 out of what 10 or so has broken. That gives me alot of confidnece. Jst a matter of time until another does.Must be a perfect flex point. All 3 wires were broke inside the insulation. No visible sign of damage from the outside.
  3. Its a 2003 DR650. 1st lost tail/plate light then the Neutral light started to not to work and at same time to get the bike to start would have to turn bars back and forth while holding starter button down to get bike to fire. Once started it runs fine. Looked at wiring diagram and found the wires for the lights. Both the plate and neutral light wire were broke were the come out from under the tank and start up the steering stem. They broke inside the insulation. No rubbing of the wire at all. Was thinking the starting problem was related to the neutral light. Not. Got it all back together and I still have to move the bars to get it to fire. So obviously I have the same problem. I'm away from the manuel to look at the diagram. This computer will not allow down loads. So can somebody point me in the direction of which color wire I need to look at in the main wiring harness that goes around steering stem for the starting circuit. I'm thinking it the Y/G that comes of the clutch lever. Thanks.
  4. Its an 03 650. Tail and plate light work at times. Brake light and turn signal always work. So started the wiggle test of wires. When I got to were the wiring harness come from under the tank and goes up to handlebars is where I got things to flicker. With bars turned left is when things usually did work. SHake the harness and they would come on. Bars straight things worked. So thought this should be easy. I had place some heavy wire loom around harnes to protect it from chaffing. To it off and unwrapped the factory top to gain access. Now the tail/plate light will not work at all and sometimes the neutral light will flicker. All wires look good, nothing broke or even scuffed. First thought was a ground issue for the tail/plate light. Not sure now. From what I can tell from wiring diagram everything on the back shares a common ground. Is the black with white tracer the ground? Everything behind the headlight cover appears good also. Now leaning toward the ignition switch as the problem. Any thoughts on were to go next and what type of test to do? Thanks.
  5. Alot depends on how full you consider the tank when you fill it up. I have a stock 03 and have to go to reserve between 115-125 which is 50-52 mpg. I weigh 300lb and carry 20lb pack.
  6. Well its that time for the dreaded tire search. Currently running Dunlop 607's front and rear. I want a 100% street tire and these are what I came up with. Only problem is the rear is a 140/80 17. Will I have any problems with that size? Anybody have experience with this model. Looking for decent cornering and long tread wear. Thanks.
  7. Bambi killer my ass. More like Bullwinkle.
  8. Dead!
  9. I hit a deer broadside at 60 mph and crashed the bike. I managed to get it back on the road and was able to ride it home. For the most part the bike and myself faired pretty good. I dented the gas tank, scuffed some plastic, and maybe bent the bars. Now that I have had a chance to look at things it appears that the bars and wheel are not exactly straight. The dent in the tank came from the left turn signal. If I turn to full left lock the brake hose barely hits the edge of the tank. When I go full right lock it appears that there is about 1/2 in. difference between the distance from tank to fork, from one side to other. What the best way to try and get things lined back up? Also if I need to buy new bars I want something with the bend but an inch taller. Any suggestons there also.
  10. Look at www.greatdaytoride.com
  11. If you are replacing the chain then no breaker needed. Just take a grinder/Dremel with cut off wheel and cut it off. I replaced with a D.I.D. chain and master link. 20,000 mile and no problems. A chain press is nice but not neccesary to get the the master link compressed so the clip will fit. Just easier with a press.
  12. 2 fingers between the top of the swing arm and the chain at the end of the slider. Fingers fill the gap with a slight drag. Bike in neutral on side stand with no weight on the bike.
  13. Same thing for me. They did offer a great price and th shipping was free. I ordered on a Friday morning around 8 a.m. The tire was in stock to be shipped in 2-3 business days. So I figured it would ship no later than Tues. Guess they take a 4 day weekend. It shipped on Thurs and arrived the next Wed. Glad I was not in a pinch. I will not order from them again.
  14. Yes you can.
  15. Not sure the name of the name brands. My coat has a removable quilted liner so it is a year around item. I bought a pair of bibs and gloves from Cabelas (I think). The were advertised as snowmobile gear. As for a hood I use a balacava under the helmet. To me the important thing was to get something that would keep the wind from passing thru. After you accomplish this you can always add layers to keep warm. I ride to work in temps. around 20F and stay warm.